I appreciate the vote of confidence, but I am indeed, a mere mortal man. I just happen to have a passion for car audio for the past 30+ years. I came up years ago trying out everything that came along (that I could afford), from the $15.00 craig eq booster, and the pyramid 300 watt 7 band eq with built in alarm system (another $15 item that most here will not remember..lol ) To a lot of the higher end audio items on the market in the last few years. I have spent more $$ over the years than is imaginable, and met a TON of people that share my passion at shows across the country with every brand of equipment there is. I still attend, and compete at those shows today.
I enjoy sharing the small amount of knowledge I have accrued over the years, and like to save others the trouble of spending countless dollars, time, and effort searching for a decent product in an endless sea of choices.

Thanks Ron and all the others for the good info. After serious thinking today (long nap) I'm not going to screw around with the cheap stuff. I have the money or will in 2 weeks. I just try to think of all the angles before I buy. With the Kenwood HU that cost me over $600 I honestly can't go cheap on this. I am going with the Hertz HSK 165XL or the HSK 165 depending on how much I spend on amp. I did a install on my last car and went cheap and was never happy. Alpine single din and polk audio coaxials. Always had buyers remorse.
I will take your advise and buy from WoofersEtc. I have always used Crutchfield because they were easy with all the install stuff. I will have to figure out if I need a spacer or adapter for the door speakers. I have the Base unit. Everything else I can handle. It's winter here and I haven't had the z out much but it will be warming up soon and I have a big garage to work on it. Mike

You will need spacers. If you aren't going to make your own the ones from Zenclosures with a 5.75" center hole will be a perfect fit. Zenclosures Speaker Spacers

If you go with these be sure to make a note on your order that they're for a 370Z. One of the 3 mounting points for the spacer is pretty tight against the door panel and Mike will modify the bracket slightly to make sure that it clears it.

That is great info. Thanks a million. Bookmarked. I'll start ordering everything in about 2 weeks. I get about $1000 back from irs every year. Kind of a savings account if you don't mind them using your money all year. But it works for me. Now to get some ideas for a amp. WoofersEtc has some great deals on amps. I didn't know that Foose was involved in amps. I'm going to try to keep the amp to about a $200 limit if I can. Then get the HSK-165's. And I am going to get the Dynamat Xtreme Door Kit . Excellent. Thanks all.

hmmm so these spacers will work with the hertz 165's

Ronrizz used no spacers.....;) Fit 'em right in. But I bought without Blose

Ron I remember seeing you saying this before and have yet to understand how you did it. If I recall correctly when I tried to install the XL's without spacers the magnet butted right up against the window guide rail inside the door shell. This is also on a non-Bose, but perhaps I just didn't have the speaker positioned correctly.

It was extremely tight, for sure, but Juuuust enough clearance. Stance will need mounting plates because he should have 6x9's up front.

Well after much research I ended up getting the Focal 165FX's with the Focal Solid 2 Amp. I also took the advise of many to Dynamat the doors. I ordered the speakers Thursday from ABT in Chicago and and they arrived Friday. Free shipping. I also got the spacers from zenenclosures. They worked great. Just finished getting everything back together and it sounds nice. The factory speakers I pulled out were cheap crap. I couldn't believe it.
Anyway here is my question for anyone out there tonight.

On the Focal amp there are 3 controls
1 Gain - I can handle that
2 Crossover- HPF-FULL-LPF Not sure on this setting with my setup
3 FREQ- 50-150 HZ Not sure on this either

On the Crossovers I left them at the factory settings.
Tweeter=0db
Woofer=High

Thanks, Mike

Speakers look good man, those are some beefy spacers!

I'll let someone else handle the question you just posted, but FWIW, when we are talking about dynamat for the doors, it's the outer door skin you want to do. That's where the majority of the sound waves will be hitting, that's what's going to resonate the most, and that's what is going to improve your SQ most noticeably.

In order to do this, you need to remove the window glass from the door, then remove that metal piece you covered in matting. That will give you access to the outer door skin. The piece you did matting on doesn't resonate much, it's pretty heavy gauge and secured quite well. I'm not saying don't do ANY dynamat on it, but a couple strips is more than sufficient.

I realize at this stage this is hardly good news, but if you want to do it right, this is the way to do it. The FSM has all the details for complete door disassembly. For reference, here are some pics:

http://www.the370z.com/members/edcon...sasembly-2.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/edcon...or-dynamat.jpg

Wow, I should of done more research. I guess I just went by the Sticky in this Forum by Slik Nic. Going to have to be good enough for now. I'm spent working on this all weekend. But... when the weather gets nice I can do it up right. Thanks for your input.

When you have some time to kill:
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Thanks I will check it out over my morning coffee.

Use HPF on your components and LPF on your sub and tune accordingly. Full allows all frequencies to pass through all your speakers. I'm sure Ron would be able to explain it better for you though

In reading over the thread again I notice that you have decided to run without a sub. If that's the case, you can certainly leave your crossover at Full, which will feed the components 20hz to 20khz. they are spec'd at 55hz to 20khz, if I'm not mistaken.
Typically your sub would handle the frequencies from 20 to 63hz, and your components will take over at 63hz to 20khz. Since you will be feeding your components frequencies lower than they are spec'd to reproduce, you may want to go easy on the gain control, so as to not overpower them in that range.
If you were to cross them at 63hz without a sub, you will be missing a few octaves below 63, which will bother you if you are picky.......

I suggest this.....Set your crossover HP on your amp at around 60 to 80hz. give it a listen. If it sounds good to you, leave it. If it sounds to you like it is missing something in the low end, switch it back to Full