Awesome job on the install!

I was wondering to remove the metal colored shield plate you just rolled the window all the way up including the slight drop when you open the door then you were able to remove the glass window correct? With the glass out you can remove the metal shield plate?

I figure I would just depress the door buttons for the window using a Ratcheting Bar Clamp then unhook the battery to keep the windows fully rolled up.

I assume you didn't have to drill the 2 rivets like some of the other member installs?

I think I know what you are asking. There are 2 bigger nuts at the bottom to remove the glass. Once you can see them, you need to adjust the window to not fully up, not fully down, Then you can remove them. They are hiding behind those black rubber covers adhered to the metal inner piece.

Once the glass is it you can take out a couple more bolts and get the metal plate out by rotating it up from the bottom and away from the door, it has two upper retaining bolts that need to 'fall into' the door then come out.

Honestly just check the FSM for the window replacement procedure and follow it, that's all I did and it was simple. An extra set of hands makes it that much faster but I did it alone not too bad.

No drilling required, if you have the drill out you're wrong lol

If you get stuck lemme know and I can maybe help.



Sent from my 6+

Just curious why are you putting bass blockers on those tweeters? You're running a MS* which can cross them over with no issue, or using the crossover that came with the speakers would make more sense.

I'm running them active with the MS8, and planned to from the beginning so I bought raw drivers, no crossovers.
I did it that way so I would have more control over the sound and added the capacitors or 'bass blockers' to protect the tweeters from DC during system turn on. That's the only reason, they are several octaves away from the crossover point I have on the MS8, so their only function is tweeter protection, not as a crossover of sorts.


Sent from my 6+

I'm being lazy here, but I'll do if have to. I was going to remove the metal shield tomorrow for insulating, why do you have to remove the windows?

Sent from my HTC6500LVW using Tapatalk

The metal section is what supports the glass and has the motor. You must remove the glass from this piece to remove the metal section, then you need to have the glass completely out of the way to install whatever product you are using. I suppose you could wedge something in the glass/door at the top to keep it all the way up once it was removed from the supports, but this would be precarious at best and would save you almost no time from simply taking the next step and pulling it out of the weatherstripping.

So I updated my journal with the new stuff for 2016, but I'll bump this thread too with the audio change I made. I went from the WickedCAS corner sub to a dual 10" rear-firing Zenclosures box. While I do think the corner box is still the best option if you want good bass and to keep the majority of your trunk, the output was lacking for me given how strong my mids and highs were.

I had the Zenclosures unit shipped to me in bare wood and got it wrapped locally in black alcantara with white stitching to match the rest of my interior, with a nice padding underneath. I'm using two JL Audio 10w3v3-4's running in parallel to my HD900 sub channel.

Once I re-did the setup for the new subs on my MS8, the instant I put the first track on I couldn't stop smiling. Finally it sounds like what I've been looking for all along. Clean, tight, and TONS of output. Yes, I sacrificed a lot more of the trunk space as well as added another probably 60lbs, but it was worth it to get the sounds I wanted and if need be it's not too hard to pull the box out.

http://www.the370z.com/members/edcon...pped-box-2.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/edcon...pped-box-3.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/edcon...pped-box-4.jpg
http://www.the370z.com/members/edcon...rapped-box.jpg

Congratulations! Impressive built

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