No sound after battery swap W/ Nav
 

I just put a new battery in my 2010 Touring/Sport/Nav now I cant get any sound out of the NAV or the stereo. I can still get confirmation beeps from the nav system but no sound to the speakers. I checked all the small fuses in the drivers footwell and they were all good. Everything else in the car works just fine...

Any suggestions??

Thanks!!!
Fred


Updated at Post #11

Are you sure the "confirmation beeps" are coming from the Nav? My first guess would be a blown fuse and you are hearing the car's wake up sound. Check the Owner's Manual for location.

How did you check the fuses? A visual check is not very reliable. Use a volt (or ohm) meter or test light.

Visual volume display working? Other than a blown fuse, like Southark said, I can only think of some sort of weird menu setting needing to be re-set...

I was in the settings and turnd the confirmation beep on. So it will beep whenever I select anything. The sound indicator works just fine. It will go though radio, aux, ext... and no sound. The GPS will direct but make no sound either.

I did just do a visual inspection. I will check with a meter when I get a chance and see if I notice anything.

Ah. Since the Nav beeps, it's getting some power ... but there may be more than one power feed.

If you don't find a blown fuse, then you may want to pull a battery cable and hold the brake pedal down for a few seconds to kill power to the whole car. This may reset the Nav. This will reset the tuning params in the ECM, so you will have to drive around for a while before the car will run normally.

If that doesn't work, download the FSM and start reading.

Edit: Check the wiring between the Nav and the radio.

Ok, well that gives me a few things to check out. I will get back with what I figure out.
Thanks

If all fails, unplug the stereo harness and plug it back in

That sounds like a better solution than pulling a battery cable.

Yah, almost sounds like the amp is not getting the wake signal.

pulling the stereo out does not sound fun haha. I am used to cars from the 90s where you just pop the dash cover off.

so I finally got back around to working on this...

I pulled the amp, pretty obvious no damage to it. I turned the stereo on and checked all the pins on the larger plug to see if there was any power coming to it and I did not see any power on any of the pins (I am not sure of the pin out of the plug, just checked all the pins).
Next I checked the 20 amp fuse in the driver kick panel and it was good, I also checked the 15 amp fuse near the battery and it was also good.
I then checked the voltage across where the 15 amp fuse goes by the battery and it was getting 10 volts (radio on).
I checked the voltage across where the 20 amp fuse goes in the driver foot-well and got nothing.

I have dash kind-of apart right now because im installing a back up camera and av switch into the car. So I can look into any suggestions you guys have now. I may try plugging everything back in and see if that solved the issue or not. I searched for wiring diagrams but wasn't able to find any detailed schematics.

Any ideas?

Not sure if this will help but when I installed my backup camera and bypass switch from the carkit company I blew a fuse. I replaced the fuse and still had no power to my nav screen. I checked every fuse in the car and even replaced some that weren't blown, I even took the whole fuse block out to check for burnt spots and still nothing. I finally decided to take it to the dealership to have the warranty cover my nav screen. I took out my camera and bypass switch and the screen still didn't work. I then decided to put all the fuses back to stock specs, I had some 10 amp fuses where 15 amp fuses should be and etc. After I did that I started the car up and the nav screen came on and worked fine. I still have no idea what the problem was but it has been working ever since.

Interesting. I will check all the fuses to be sure they have the proper fuse in place. I am really going to dig into this this weekend and try to get it figured out.

A visual check of fuses can be misleading - put a volt meter on 'em.