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rockford sub and amp question

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 ^Roadster, I talked to JL audio AND RF about clipping because I bought the amp the OP is talking about to drive the shallow mount JL

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Old 09-10-2014, 06:59 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 View Post
^Roadster, I talked to JL audio AND RF about clipping because I bought the amp the OP is talking about to drive the shallow mount JL 13" and BOTH JL and RF said clipping is BS, it doesn't hurt the amp or sub, and both said peak output is complete BS too.

The one I got came with a paper saying that it was actually rated at 598Watts and peaked at... 2400 watts or something
There are 2 camps when it comes to clipping, so educate yourself and believe what you want. Fact is clipping creates distortion and I'm sure we all agree that we want clean output. Making sure that amp see's a 2ohm load is paramount in setting up the properly optimized system. Why pay for a 598w RMS amp if you only try to get 299w RMS out of it?
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:07 PM   #2 (permalink)
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There are 2 camps when it comes to clipping, so educate yourself and believe what you want. Fact is clipping creates distortion and I'm sure we all agree that we want clean output. Making sure that amp see's a 2ohm load is paramount in setting up the properly optimized system. Why pay for a 598w RMS amp if you only try to get 299w RMS out of it?
I know, I have done my research, and I'm not trying to be an asshole about it. Just stating what I was told by JL and RF.

And read what the other guy posted about the gain settings.
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Old 09-10-2014, 07:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Why pay for a 598w RMS amp if you only try to get 299w RMS out of it?
to an extent. But As Southark stated earlier in the thread....Always a smart Idea to go big on amplifier power, that you can pull back on, which lessens the chance of clipping, and speaker destruction. As opposed to trying to get BIG off a small amp.
Steve Meade designs has an awesome piece out there called the DD-1.
It is used to set your amplifier gains correctly to match your head unit. It also detects distortion, which you can use to see exactly what volume setting your head unit starts to distort at. you hook this to your head unit, and it sees distortion at, say 35 out of 40 clicks, you KNOW to never turn that knob past 35. Simple.
It is 10 times easier to use than an o-scope, and 10 times less in price.
I recommend them to anyone who is serious about their systems. $150 for piece of mind, and a truly optimized setup.
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