Guys,

Cell phone batteries are mated specifically to the phone, therefore the phone has a unique regulator/temp sensor/voltage monitor that controls every aspect of the phone's battery. You can't "overcharge" or "overcurrent" the phone battery.

Each battery has a discharge curve, that curve is managed by the battery IC in the phone, there is a maximum that cannot be exceeded.

Each phone also has a charge curve, that curve is also managed by the battery IC in the phone, there also is a maximum that cannot be exceeded. This battery IC also monitors ambient temps and the temp of the battery and will decrease charge current based on battery temperature vs. ambient, a certain rise above ambient will trigger a change in the charge voltage/current curve.

Look at the current rating of the phone charger that is the maximum current the phone will use to charge the battery at the acceptable nominal rate AND run the phone and screen etc., so the user can charge and use simultaneously. The 5V USB voltage is used by the battery manager as follows:

Inside the phone the battery manager system monitors the battery voltage, there are these circuits called a buck and boost, they take the 3.7 volts and by means of a switching supply very efficiently increase/decrease the battery voltage to what ever level the circuitry of the phone requires. Usually the core of the SOC requires about 1.8 volts, other ancillary circuitry requires 3.3, and other parts - the radio transmitter etc., may require more than 5 volts.
What you also cannot do is drain the battery down too far (all phone batteries are 3.7 Volts, and when the voltage of the battery is down to say, 3.1 or 3.2 volts the phone will turn off and the battery is "drained" to the customer but actually the battery is far from dead.

Each Lion/LiPolymer battery has a certain number of full complete charge cycles in is lifetime, when those are exceeded you will notice that the battery may charge but won't last as long, this is because the depth of charge decreases as the charge cycles erode the chemicals in the battery, the chemicals only last so long so after a while the chemical reaction stops at a level below what the phone battery monitor will accept.

Based on my experience, it's not good to leave the phone connected to a charger continuously, the battery seems to decay much faster as the chemicals in the battery cease their reactions and actually build barriers between each other, so I charge my phones during the day and leave them off the charger at night. Conversely, other people charge all night and are off the charger all day. YMMV.

Sorry to be so long winded but I wanted folks to understand charging - the car battery has nothing to do with the phone battery longevity.

Yeah thats what i said...just yours was awesomer! :tup: but really good info very well said.

looks like its not possible to stream at least with 09...sigh

I understand completely what you are saying however from past experiences with multiple phones in different conditions along with articles read. I stand by using a car charger is a last resort. especially the (rapid chargers)

Hi BAF,
Never use a cheap Wal-Mart or Pep Boys charger with a phone either in home or auto. When I buy a 12V to USB 5V convertor I always load it with the rated load (1A rated then I put 5 ohms across) and then measure the voltage under load. I also measure the voltage no load, which is important too. I wouldn't use an adapter that has a no load voltage over 5.25 V, and a loaded voltage below 4.75V. Those voltages are upper and lower limit of USB 2.0 standard, which governs the design of all USB chargers which output 5V.

I use car chargers all the time but I make sure they are name brand and tested by me. If they fail the tests above then I fix them, but if they are cheap Chinese knock offs I don't even bother.
I'm an electrical engineer and I design things to do with audio, car stereo, power supplies, etc.

I have only used verizon, Motorola, and LG car chargers before.

or you could try this and get better regulated charging with a mophie like i did.
http://www.the370z.com/attachments/m...522.249182.jpg

Audio over BT is just not worth it. You lose way too much audio fidelity.

I agree but just like CD vs. MP3 it's more convenient with no inherent physical connection, and when ultra low power BT is released and in mass production the battery life issues will be closed.
It's inevitable.

Audio via bluetooth from my Galaxy GS3 using Poweramp and .flac music files make my stock Bose system sound extremely good. It's amazing what can be done with the Poweramp equalizer and presets.

You would have even better sound from aux or CD without EQ

I can't put 750+ .flac music files on a CD like I can on a microsd card and the Bose systen doesn't have an aux connection. EQ is done to suite my ears.

The Bose system does have an aux input in the front, its a 3.5mm plug. And you can put FLAC files on cd you would just have to burn it as an audio CD and would be limited to only 17 or 18 tracks

Yeah PowerAmp is an awesome app, I always put it on all my Android phones.

Pump


I own a 2017 so I've had this issue since I purchased it I'm tech savy but idk what's wrong, I can pair, but in my Bluetooth settings on my phone you have the audio connected and connected for audio talk two options for whatever reason since I got my car I can't do just audio I posted when I got it on here no one helped.... I went to the deslrrshio they were of no help I just wanna listen to Pandora :'(