The big foam piece that normally sits where the OP placed his sub box. On my '12 NISMO, there's a big piece of foam there (I assumed it came on every model).

oh! the beam! Nah man, no chainsaws required. It lifts out really easily. No finangling required. If you have Bose audio or satellite radio i think, you'll find the Bose amp and satellite radio units under the foam beam. Bose is in the middle, radio on the right hand side. Here in Aussieland we dont get sat radio so we just have to deal with the Bose amp - which isnt too much of an issue because the harness is just long enough to be coaxed underneath the plastic covers to the left of the rear strut brace, over the hump and allow you to relocate the amp to the left side of your new enclosure. If you prefer a more stealthy relocation then you'll need to chop and extend the wiring.

But all it needs is for you to unmount it off the steel bracket (4x 10mm bolts) then use a large self tapping screw to fix one corner of it to your enclosure lid. Then lay the boot mat over it.

Foam beam comes with all 370's afaik

Nicely done
 

Very cool!

I may try to do a single 8" Just want to fill in the low end some, as well as, replace the stock door speakers.

I am doing mine now and should be done with everything tomorrow 5/25/15.
It looks a little different than his. I was going for the same thing but figured I just have one Alpine 8 inch DVC Type R and also 6.5 Alpine Type R 6.5 components far to each side. Yes I know the whole staging deal. I figure it's a small car so whatever. I have Polk DB6501s in the front ( I didn't like the way the 6.5 type Rs crossover set up) , a PDX V9 amp and an Alpine IVE W555BT head unit. It is nothing crazy really, but I know I will like it and it's all stealth too which is what I want.

:pics:

I did it. It needs some tuning and that PDX amp is pretty powerful. All the gains are all the way down and actually sounds good flat.
I started out with some cardboard cut to size of the area and then traced out the area where I am going to put the 3/4 MDF board over

then I cut out the cardboard and traced an outline onto the MDF board

It fit but you will defiantly need a sander to make it fit better and take out the jagged edges. Make it look clean or pretty or whatever. I have an 8 inch DVC type R there

I had some padding from an AK-47 I bought and used it for a tighter seal to the floor. The box is sort of Hybrid. Its not a full complete box. Its just sealed well with weight and screws. Building a box would be a b-tch and the area would not be well utilized hence the odd looking interior of the box. I could not get exact dimensions. Just winged it with a Jig jaw and a sander.
This took me a few hours to figure out how to build this dang thing since I wanted it more stealth. I might improve it in the future who knows.

It actually sounds great. It is not a big blasting system, but I wanted a rear view camera and the ability to use MP3 and blue-tooth along with all the other features on the Alpine head unit .There are a lot of electrical components in this car esp the DC motors in the engine.

Very nice! And thanks for all the pictures along the way! How difficult did it all end up being?

To be honest. I hated it.... lol All the bending over the trunk killed my back...

LOL. Car audio is back breaking work. Not to mention the clean up. You pay to play though. It is quite a commitment & worth it in the end.

Nice work.

Yeap now I gotta do my F-150. Going to wait a few weeks. I need to buy an amp for that. I might stick with the PDXv9 since that over powers my 8 type r. Got 2 JL 10s for that.

this is awesome. was it hard to do? this would be something id love to try to do.

I think I'm going to do this to mine...looks nice and cheap too

All it is in buying a 3/4 MDF board. The tools are more expensive if you dont have them. I am actually making another one right now that will fit 2 8s in it. The one 8 just wasn't enough for me. I also want to carpet it since you can still see the board with the trunk mats on. Then again I am picky. ill take more pics of the new one maybe

It was a lot of just staring at it and holding a beer at first. Just be be careful with scuffing up the area. I thought about buying paper the shape of the area and making a template for people so they don't scuff it up as much when they are trying to fit the dang thing.

A template would be very helpful for people like me, who aren't the most "handy" with these types of things.

So pretty much you have a free air setup correct? That is the reason you don't have good power handling.

I concur. Pics?

I wouldn't worry about staging with a sub. Low frequencies are non-directional, depending upon where you set your crossover point.

I wouldnt say its free air.it is too small of an area plus I do have spacers in there where I put the top onto and I also put in weather stripping against spacers.

I never liked the sound of a single sub even if it did have DVC. I had a single JL 10 in my 2g Eclipse and I wasn't satisfied so installed a second. On the Z I made another board added a send hole and added another 8" Type R. I am now actually happy with the sound and the way it looks. Carpet also helps a ton even though you don't see it.. I just put the Alpine Head Unit on "Rock" made 3 slight adjustments to the equalizer and done.

For a while I thought about taking out the Polk DB woofers in the doors and install 6.75 Kicker "subs" there. I have one in another car and thought it was a rich Midbase-Midrange woofer plus they can handle more power. Never know might do it in the future....

your box not being sealed 100% definitely had an effect on power handling, as well as overall performance. even the slightest air leak can ruin a perfect speaker. I definitely would not call this configuration free air by any means, though.

True, to an extent. Sub-bass frequencies are non-directional to a point, but they definitely contribute to your soundstage. A truly exceptional subwoofer will get lost in the front stage, and blend seamlessly with it. A mediocre subwoofer cant do that regardless of tuning/ time alignment..... If you can tell where your subwoofer is located in your car, it needs work. (if you are anal about it, that is) most are not. I am.

What about applying Dynamat inside the enclosure to make it sealed? I have a lot of that stuff just sitting around

The Box should be a solid sealed box with correct cu ft space inside (if your box is designed to be sealed and not a bandpass or ported, each enclosure type has there own specs to follow for best performance). You should try and get it as close to the manufacture's specs as possible. A great speaker will sound like crap in a junk box. You can add some pillow stuffing in the box to slow the air and change the sound some. I never heard of putting sound deadener in a sub enclosure.

YzGyz

ok back to work

finally done. This was trial and error. Glad I have a table saw that does angles...Attachment 105425

i have the top off so people can see what it looked like. Sloppy sealing but I built it in the car. It would be a bugger to remove. Now I am going to go rest. My hamstrings are cramping up.....

So for those that mounted subs in this space, where did you mount the amp(s)?

I mounted mine under the passenger seat and ran the wiring up under the panel under the rear speaker, right next to the outside of the car. I just poked it up there and shoved it around until it came out the other side into the trunk.

This is an awesome post as I was thinking about doing this as well!!! Thank you for this info

Thread revival
 

So its been years...hopefully by now someone has perfected this style of sub box...right?

Would love to have one of these.

I know it's been a while, but do you still have this setup? If so, ever get around to dimensions or specs?

I know you know you’re responding to an old post but you might not realize you’re asking a question to someone who hasn’t been active for 5 years. If you click on their name you can see this for yourself…just trying to be helpful as I know your new around here. Cheers!


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