Just want more bass for Bose
 

So let me know if my plan would work okay. I want to keep it simple and just replace my bose woofers in the hatch with a box. I want to use a single 10" and a mono sub amp.
The amp and woofer would be under the hatch carpet with no spare tire.
I would use the existing bose woofer connections to go into the amp for speakers and turn on but would run a power wire and ground to something in the hatch.
I want to make it super easy to remove for track days.
I would prefer to fire the woofer down so that it wouldn't be visible but would consider firing up if it will make much difference.
I like this setup below and would maybe only change the woofer to face down and I would prefer the amp towards the front so I wouldn't have to lengthen the speaker level wires and turn on wire. Maybe add some handles to the side as well.
Does anyone offer boxes like this already or would I need to go local custom?
http://www.the370z.com/members/rub_m...2-img-7338.jpg

Why the preference for a downward-facing woofer? Just curious.

you would be better served using an LOC before your amp, rather than high level inputs. Audiocontrol makes some nice ones, and are quite reasonably priced. The LC2i can be had for about $80, and will put out up to 9.5 volts to your amp.

Even if you were to install the LOC using the subs inputs you would be better off.

Okay so I forgot that the amp is in the woofer so the wires that go to the sub are low level. So can RCA plugs be put on them and run them into the low level on an amp?

I prefer facing down so that I can keep it stealth. I suspect if facing up if there is any type of carpet over them that the carpet would be blown around.

It doesn't make much difference which way it's pointed, it still has to pump the same amount of air in/out the "back" as it does out/in the "front". It will bounce the carpet the same amount.

Mounting the driver "upside down" does allow you to use the magnet as a center support for the carpet. Just remember you have a huge magnet sitting there and don't set your laptop on it. :)

Exactly

NO you can not, you need a LOC to give you a clean flat signal to start with and to add what the bose system takes away in its processing.

I'm thinking of doing exactly this too, with a LOC, but is the amp for the Bose sub in the sub enclosure? Meaning the wiring to the sub enclosure is in fact low level? Please clarify bigaudio so I don't fry anything!
Thanks. :tiphat:

A lot of this info is in the AV section of the FSMs. The AV section of the FSM is a great resource for what you are doing.

According to AV, the Bose amp (behind and between the seats) sends an On signal to the woofer. That's says to me the the woofer has power (amp) that needs to be turned on, but I may be mistaken (didn't feel like digging any deeper when others probably know the answer already :) ).

Thanks I've read a lot of the audio threads but didn't think of that. :tiphat:

So I looked this up in the FSM and there is no amp in the sub. Only two wires from the Bose amp and confirmed in my car. (2012MY). I'm going to just tap the rear speaker leads for the LOC and from there to an amp and sub.

i would just use the sub signal from the bose amp with a AC LC2i, if you open it up there is a jumper you can switch that lets you use low level in, which will also let the LC2I correct the bass reponds.

Thanks 90 ST, are you referring to a jumper in the LC2I? If so that would be even easier.
Do the instructions point this out or is this obvious.

I'm looking into the same type of hook-up for my Bose/Navi system. Just looking to add a little more bass to the system. I'm looking into the Audiocontrol LC2i with a JL 10W3V3-2 sub, JL 500/1 amp and possibly a corner box like Wicked CAS has. I like the Zenclosure box, but don't want to give up my cargo cover.

Any thoughts on the corner style of box? I have something similiar in my 4Runner...

I just want to clean up the bass and maybe add a little punch so I picked up a Pioneer TS SWX 251 compact sub and an alpine MRP M500 amp. The Pioneer will allow me to keep the cargo cover on as well. I just need the LC2i which I'll have to order. Any opinions on what to tap this into would be appreciated. 90 ST suggested the sub output but if I do that would I parallel it into both inputs on the LC2i?

Yeah, I'm almost positive that the lc2 is the only LOC audio control has that does not sum the 2 inputs. All others will do this internally.
you have to do it as you described.

The instructions don't even mention it, i was the AC sales rep, which is why i know. Once you open it up it should be obvious, if not you can always call their tech line, they are very good at walking you though things.

I emailed Dan today at AC and he told me to just parallel the sub output into the left and right LC2i inputs. I forgot to ask him about any internal jumpers or anything. Don't see why that would be necessary as there is nothing to sum, it's the same signal. Am I missing something here? Here is his comments:

Thank you for your question and interest in AudioControl. Where to tap in will depend on whether you have full range and how you want fade to affect your subwoofer. The LC2i does not require full range signal, it is an active line output converter and what goes in comes out. As far as using one pair from your sub output, that is fine. If your amp requires 2 channels at the input, you could y out either at the speaker level output from your amp or at the RCA output from the LC2i. If you can run fully mono, then just stick with the left side on the LC2i, which is where the GTO Signal Sense lives.

The jumpers are not to sum, but to be able to acept a low level input from a pre out, not speaker level, which is how it comes.

I was playing around with the stereo yesterday and found a way to get a bit more apparent bass out of the system - set the fader to R1 or R2. (This attenuates the signal to the front speakers slightly, the way most stereos work.) Turn up the volume a notch or three and, voila, more bass. Probably won't do you much good if you run with the volume all the way up. You may not like the way it affects the F/R balance, but it's not enough to bother me.

It also helps to remove the carpet and pad from over the sub unit. If you do that, I suggest taping some thin cloth over the sub port to keep debris out.

Well I'm tapped off the sub output so I want it at speaker level.
I got the mount built and installed, relocated the Bose amp, wired and installed the alpine amp and ran the power lead from the battery. I had to order the LC2i so once it comes in tomorrow I'll be able to finish it all up.

I'll be doing the same soon. My LC2i will be delivered tomorrow also. I'm waiting on my Wicked CAS corner box to be shipped. Still deciding on an amp. Either the Alpine MRP-M500 or Fosgate R500-1D. Both are comparable. The Fosgate does come with a bass/gain remote. :confused:

I got the alpine mrp m500 as well so I'll let you know how it goes. I will say that it was a very tight fit and tricky to get in the space in front of the struts.

The Fosgate is about 3" smaller. I've read good reviews on both.

It's the width or front to back that would be the issue. I would go with something around 9" or less.
Now I'm just trying to figure out the best way to set this up as the amp and LC2i have a gain on them.

Check the input levels on your amp gain, and use that as a starting point for your lc2. The lc2 Has an output of up to 13.5 volts, I believe.
If your amp input gain only goes up to, say, 5 volts, you are going to want to start pretty low on your lc2. ( 1/4 of 13.5 is around 3.375 ) so, in that example, I would set the lc2 gain at about 1/4, and then set your amp gains accordingly.

Thanks RonRizz, the specs list input sensitivity at 0.2 - 4.0V so I'll base it on that as you stated. :tiphat:

So I got everything connected and it all worked perfectly including the remote trigger on the LC2i. Man what a difference this has made to the stock Bose.
I'm very pleased. :tup:
This is only a single 10" at 200W but it hits plenty hard enough without overpowering the stock system. Any more and I feel it would be too imbalanced. Not entirely clear on the LC2i settings yet and the bass roll off if any, so I'll drive it with the hatch interior out for a few days and play with the settings.

Glad to hear it worked out for you

Thanks RonRizz and happy New year! :tiphat:

:tiphat: to you too.

Guys:

I'll be wiring in my LC2i tomorrow as my amp should be arriving (box & sub the next day). Is it better to wire the LC2i on the sub output wires from the Bose amp or on the input side of the Bose amp before it goes in to it?

You had it right in your PM, sky blue and voilet 9 and 14 on the bose amp is the same 2 wires at the bose sub connector 1 and 2, tap into those 2 wires at either place. :tup:

Mr Sparky:

Could you explain why you would need to connect to both left & right inputs on the LC2i? Your running a mono amp, so wouldn't all you need to do is connect to the left side of the LC2i? Am I missing something in the above description :confused:

I guess if your amp has a left and right input then to get a left and right output of the LC2i you have to feed it a left and right signal. As the bose sub only has a mono feed then bridging it to both is how this is achieved. It was just a question I asked and that was his answer so I went with it! Obviously your feeding both channels with the same signal and it gets summed in the amp but my amp manual said it would have low output if you didn't feed both left and right inputs.That's why I asked him how to do this and his answer is above, so I went with it. Hope that makes sense! :rofl2:
Matt will probably jump in here at some point and correct me I'm sure.
Edit: His comment above should read" you could y out either at the speaker level output from your BOSE amp or at the ..................

I believe the reasoning behind his reply is that not all amplifiers sum the inputs, in which case, even though you are feeding it a mono signal, you will only have output on the right or left side (whichever you have connected at input) The simple solution is to feed both left and right inputs.
This is why he mentioned that you can sum the inputs OR the rca outputs on the lc2, but if you use the outputs to sum pre-amplifier, you need to use the left side input on the lc2 for signal sensing turn-on.

So it's best if I just Y off the + & - outputs on the Bose amp into the left & right inputs on the LC2i and then RCA L & R from LC2i into my Fosgate R500-1D, basically like described from sparky & AC....

I just get confused as I've never installed an LOC before and for some reason it's throwing me off a bit :shakes head: ;)

You got it right!

Finally got more base :happydance:

Thank you Sparky & bigaudiofanat for tech assistance :tiphat:

This set-up is night & day compared to OEM Bose sub and well worth it. Here are some pics and opinions:


Rockford Fosgate R500-1D Mono Sub Amp, Audiocontrol LC2i LOC, 4 Gauge Fosgate Amp kit mounted behind drivers seat:

http://www.the370z.com/members/pfdax...l-lc2i-loc.jpg

Corregated cut for box to sit a bit lower. FYI: The cargo cover clip will STILL hit top of box:

http://www.the370z.com/members/pfdax...ed-sub-box.jpg

Relocated tools for access. I trimmed some of the foam so tools would fit snug:

http://www.the370z.com/members/pfdax...ated-tools.jpg

Wicked CAS Corner Box , JL Audio 10W3v3-2 Sub & JL Grill. I mounted the box with a couple of self-tapping screws:

http://www.the370z.com/members/pfdax...corner-box.jpg

Fosgate Remote Bass Control:

http://www.the370z.com/members/pfdax...st-control.jpg
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