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-   -   JL shipped me a turd in a box labelled W3 for $159 (http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/55339-jl-shipped-me-turd-box-labelled-w3-159-a.html)

Vertigo 05-30-2012 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wicked CAS (Post 1744352)
It was blown...

That is all it matters ...

It was not a DUD....

It worked for 3 weeks being overpowered...

Let's wait to hear from Matt who installed it and see what he says.

bigaudiofanat 05-30-2012 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vertigo (Post 1744621)
Let's wait to hear from Matt who installed it and see what he says.

I will agree that it did blow however there was no clipping of the signal after tuning, they just were overpowered because I wired them at 1 ohm instead of 4 ohms like I had thought I wired it. Installer error :icon23:

Vertigo 05-30-2012 01:04 PM

If that's true, then I have one working sub that could theoretically blow any time now, one blown sub that I'm SOL on, and approx a few hundred dollars gone.

Fantastic.

vjarnot 05-30-2012 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigNate (Post 1744217)
The bolded statement is incorrect. The are two things that can damage a speaker, pushing it beyond its mechanical limits or pushing it beyond its thermal limits.

If you keep reading past the semi-colon you will see that I stated as much.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vjarnot (Post 1743721)
driving a speaker to volume levels which require a level of wattage greater than the amplifier can provide will produce 'clipping', which can easily damage a loudspeaker.

Quote:

Originally Posted by vjarnot (Post 1743721)
The way to damage a speaker which is driven by an adequately powered amplifier is too go berserk with the volume - causing the loudspeaker to draw more and more power, play louder and louder until it physically fails.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigNate (Post 1744217)
While yes clipping is often caused by someone with too little power setting their gains incorrectly, too little power in and of itself can not damage a speaker.

Now that is just pedantry. Too little power for the selected level is exactly what causes an amplifier to clip, which blows speakers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat (Post 1744776)
I will agree that it did blow however there was no clipping of the signal after tuning, they just were overpowered because I wired them at 1 ohm instead of 4 ohms like I had thought I wired it. Installer error :icon23:

To say that a speaker was overpowered by an amplifier implies that amplifiers "push" power to speakers... which they don't: speakers draw power from amplifiers. How much they draw is determined by the level selected and the speaker's impedance and efficiency. Again, (and strangely enough, BigNate and I seem to agree on this) the only way to blow a speaker with too much power is to play it at levels which exceed its physical or thermal limits... which doesn't seem to be the case here. It's simple: speakers don't draw any more power than they need to play at the level you've selected.

BigNate 05-30-2012 02:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vjarnot (Post 1744878)
If you keep reading past the semi-colon you will see that I stated as much.






Now that is just pedantry. Too little power for the selected level is exactly what causes an amplifier to clip, which blows speakers.



To say that a speaker was overpowered by an amplifier implies that amplifiers "push" power to speakers... which they don't: speakers draw power from amplifiers. How much they draw is determined by the level selected and the speaker's impedance and efficiency. Again, (and strangely enough, BigNate and I seem to agree on this) the only way to blow a speaker with too much power is to play it at levels which exceed its physical or thermal limits... which doesn't seem to be the case here. It's simple: speakers don't draw any more power than they need to play at the level you've selected.

:tiphat:

Vertigo 05-30-2012 03:37 PM

Is there a way to tell if the speaker is blown, other than it is unresponsive?

bigaudiofanat 05-30-2012 04:22 PM

NOTE: As it is the installers fault "mine" I have offered Jim payment for the replacement and to install it at no charge.

vjarnot 05-30-2012 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vertigo (Post 1745071)
Is there a way to tell if the speaker is blown, other than it is unresponsive?

You could measure impedance, and/or gently push the cone by hand and listen for sounds of broken-ness. The best test is to hook it up to a known-good source.

Vertigo 05-30-2012 04:28 PM

I tried hooking it up to the wires that are going to the working sub, but no response. However, I did push on the cone by hand and it depresses with no noise coming from it.

Wicked CAS 05-30-2012 05:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vertigo (Post 1745175)
I tried hooking it up to the wires that are going to the working sub, but no response. However, I did push on the cone by hand and it depresses with no noise coming from it.

Did you call sonic yet to see what they will offer you for warranty?
See what they say... if not send me the serial number of the subwoofer.

Vertigo 05-30-2012 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wicked CAS (Post 1745273)
Did you call sonic yet to see what they will offer you for warranty?
See what they say... if not send me the serial number of the subwoofer.



Sounds good man. I will call them tonight.
Where is the serial number for the sub? - is it located on the sub itself?

vividracing 05-30-2012 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vertigo (Post 1743199)
^ shouldn't it be 550rms per sub?
Yeah, and my gain is actualy set quite low, as well as my volume level. I doubt the subs are gettin anywhere near that on a regular basis.

The gain has nothing to do with how much power the woofer sees. The gain is not a bass boost knob, or a volume knob, either.

Vertigo 05-30-2012 07:21 PM

The volume level was low when the sub stopped working. That's why I'm so much in disbelief.
The bass eq on my radio was all the way down and the volume was on 10 or 11. By comparison, when my volume was on let's say, 6, I could barely hear the subs.

Idk, based on the volume I was playing it, it just seems tough to believe that the subs were being overpowered.

RonRizz 06-09-2012 02:37 PM

Wait a minute......too little power damages speakers???:icon14:

vjarnot 06-09-2012 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RonRizz (Post 1763064)
Wait a minute......too little power damages speakers???:icon14:

Speakers fail in two ways:

You turn the volume to a particular level, which determines the load that the speaker places on the amp, let's say X watts.

Now then: your amp either can, or can not, supply X watts:

a) your amp can supply X watts: the speaker plays at the selected volume. If playing at this volume causes the speaker to exceed its thermal or physical capacities (i.e., the amount of heat it can dissipate, or the distance the cone can extend), then the output sound is distorted and the speaker ultimately fails.

b) your amp can not supply X watts: the amplifier attempts to supply the amount of power that the speaker is drawing, but can not. This causes clipping, as the electrical waveform from amp to speaker has its peaks and troughs squared off. The output sound is compressed and the speaker ultimately fails.

The key bit that many people don't get is that the speaker is the component that determines how much output power (i.e., wattage) is drawn from the amp.


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