Check out the guys at Soundwaves Inc.....you will not be disappointed

I have to agree the Z's Bose system low and high end seem to begin to roll off at '22-23' on the radio indicator rather than flatten out.

my audio upgrade
 

As with most of you I found the Bose intolerable.
I don't have the time e or desire to do the work. Myself so I went to California Custom Sounds in Dayton, OH. . I left the factory nav and head unit in place. Everything else was stripped out. I wanted my spare tire so we used a Cerwin Vega shallow mount sub, created a fiberglass enclosure and a new rear deck that raises the platform of the trunk by 1.5". That is enough space to allow the sub to be a flush install. Also made enough room to put the main amp, sub amp and eq in the rear deck and completely concealed. Components include
Audio control LC8i
Linear power LP 2250
Blues Audio 6.5
RF punch P300
Cerwin Vega Stealth 12

Everything works as new, no hassles, looks like nothing happened except a discrete sub in the middle of the deck.
I expect I will replace the head unit down the road, but for now I am very pleased.
I will post pics in a bit

Signal Wire Assistance:
 

A few weeks ago I installed a 10" JL sub with Fosgate mono amp and Audiocontrol LC2i LOC and used the Bose amp sub output wires...

Now...I'm installing a set of Polk Audio 6.5 componants and Fosgate 2ch. amp up front. Does anyone know where to tap (which wires) to connect a seperate LOC for front componant speakers since the front outputs from the Bose amp have seperate tweeter outputs??

Can I just connect the door speaker and tweeter outputs from the output of the Bose amp together and connect to LOC or will this cause issues? Or, is there a way to connect to wires before the Bose amp?

I'm sure someone has done this before. Eric at Audiocontrol was thinking I will need a second LOC for the fronts instead of using the one I already have for the sub.

Assistance greatly appreciated :tiphat:
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No that will not work.

You need a LOC with the capability of summing your high and low signal wires into a full low output for your new amp. Audio Control makes a few good ones.
IMO if you grab the low level input to the bose amp and run it to the LOC that will give you the ability to run your sub amp and your new speaker amp.

I didn't feel like reading all the posts, but if I decide to install a new headunit, 2 10 inch subs, and another amp, then what do I need to change? All I need is the Metra dash kit with the adapter? I'm planning on getting a headunit with preouts for the subs/amp ... So should I be good?

Also i have the Bose and no nav.

Thanks. I was kind of thinking that since the input side of the Bose amp has front & rear speaker inputs and the output side has the front & rear speakers plus the tweets and sub. This tells me that crossovers are in the Bose amp. I was hoping I wouldn't have to purchase another LOC so if I connect the front L & R inputs from the Bose amp to the LOC like stated, I should be good. I forgot the LC2i doesn't sum. :tiphat:
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Update to my system:

This weekend I finally added a second amp and front component speakers.

This is what I have for my complete system:

Front Speakers:

Polk Audio DXi6500 6 1/2" Components (crossovers in front kick panels)
Base Speaker Brackets from Nissan Dealer (no need for spacers)
Custom Fabricated Tweeter Mounts (made from corregated material removed from trunk area)
Replaced OEM wires with 12 Gauge wire

Front Speakers Amp:

Rockford Fosgate Punch P400-2 (2ch. amp)
Rockford Fosgate 0 Gauge Amp Kit
Rockford Fosgate 1 in/2 out Distribution Block

Rear/Sub:

JL Audio 10W3v3-2 Sub Woofer
Wicked CAS Corner Box
Rockford Fosgate R500-1D (Mono-Amp) with remote Bass-Boast control
Rockford Fosgate 4 Gauge Amp Kit

Line Output Converter:

Audiocontrol LC7i

This LOC worked PERFECT and I highly recommend it. I used the AV section of the FSM to determine the front speaker and tweeter output/signal wires from the Bose amp and cut them and then soldered/heat shrunk the connections. I connected the front speaker signal wires to the L & R main inputs on the LOC and the tweeter signal wires to the 2nd channel L & R input on the LOC. It has a "sum" jumper inside that sums the 2 seperate signals to the main output. The sub signal wires then go to channel 3 input and have a seperate output. It also has a ground isolation inside and I don't have ANY engine noise what so ever. I have yet to find the time to tune the system, but I'm very please with this set-up so far.

http://www.the370z.com/members/pfdax...219-153104.jpg
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So just to confirm, I have the touring package with the bose system WITHOUT nav. Im wanting to just swap in a new double din headunit. In order to that that I would just need this dash kit....
Metra Part # 99-7607B | Nissan 370Z Dash kit | Metra Online
and this adapter?
Receiver Wire Harness For select 2007-up Nissan and Subaru vehicles at Crutchfield.com

You'll also need an antenna adapter. If you want to keep your steering wheel controls you're going to need an adapter for that also.

right on, thanks a lot.

This site is packed with great information and expertise. Thanks to those of you who take time to contribute. I am starting to think about audio before I even go into the dealership. There are some great deals on the base Z model and I am wondering if it might be a good idea to buy the base model, avoid the bose issues, and go straight for a solid aftermarket system with nav and significantly upgraded audio. Is this a smart plan or am I going to have a lot of trouble. I would like to keep my steering wheel controls. Or, since I have no installation experience, would this be a job that a professional could do well. Any suggestions for someone in the dc area?

Also, if I go this route I would start with a base model rather than the touring. Are there any touring features I shouldn't want to live without?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Your welcome for the info. It would be a great idea to just go with the base model and get a good aftermarket system down the road. You might miss out on leather seats but other than that I think your just saving money.

Matt, I don't mean to be an àsshole, but I didn't read the whole thread...

I have Bose, with Nav

If I JUST want to change 4-6 of the speakers (maybe not the tweeters) can I do so? On Crutchfield it shows ONLY one choice for the fronts (and they're $200) and for the rears there are 50 options.

So, the questions are: is there a direct front replacement that will work with the random ohm rating?
AND, more importantly, will new speakers allow my music to be played louder without the Bose limiter? (I assume that it's either the HU/Amp or more likely the speaker that has a resistor/transistor/Some shite I don't know, that prevents the speaker from burning out)

Not really, if you install any new speaker you will want/need to install an external amp and a LOC to A) give you a clean un altered signal. B) Be compatible. There are some installers out there that argue you can, however it will not sound good and give you the volume your after in my experience.