Which speakers to get? (Simple install preferred)

[Sagi]

What are some great speakers to get that will be basically ... unscrew the bolts from the factory speakers, and then replacing it with the new speaker without any drilling/spacers?

I'm open to coaxial or components. If you could, also recommend an amp that could power those speakers + a sub... (thinking of a bazooka)

I like to listen to hip hop / dance music... lots of bass!

Thanks!

[kenchan]

bazooka... naw, if you're getting an active combo sub get a BassLink if they still sell them. much more powerful, punchy sound.

bazooka's have slow attack times too from my experience and tone hangs longer (longer decay)... which imho is not very sharp sounding for your music genre.

[bigaudiofanat]

Are you looking to replace bose speakers? if so I am sorry but it is not that simple. Search for bose and there are a lot of thread explaining why.

If you have the base system than you can use the polk db's for the fronts and you would have to make a box or use a zenclosure for holding it.

[Sagi]

Originally Posted by kenchan

bazooka... naw, if you're getting an active combo sub get a BassLink if they still sell them. much more powerful, punchy sound.

bazooka's have slow attack times too from my experience and tone hangs longer (longer decay)... which imho is not very sharp sounding for your music genre.

I do have the 10" 200watt Basslink, but I thought there was a 6" bazooka that can put out 300watts. I'm guessing watts don't mean everything?

[Sagi]

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

Are you looking to replace bose speakers? if so I am sorry but it is not that simple. Search for bose and there are a lot of thread explaining why.

If you have the base system than you can use the polk db's for the fronts and you would have to make a box or use a zenclosure for holding it.

It's just a base system, no bose.

[samb03]

Image dymanics components get good reviews for the midbass they produce. I have their IDQ-12 version2 sub. I like it for rock it is super clean but doesn't rattle or carry outside the car. I don't think the sub would work for you but the mids would be fine.

[bigaudiofanat]

Originally Posted by samb03

Image dymanics components get good reviews for the midbass they produce. I have their IDQ-12 version2 sub. I like it for rock it is super clean but doesn't rattle or carry outside the car. I don't think the sub would work for you but the mids would be fine.

As much as I like ID I can not recommend them if he is running them off a stock head unit or even just an aftermarket head unit. They like at least 50 watts RMS if not a lot more. That is why I recommended the DB's they do not mind being ran off a stock or aftermarket head unit and fit right in with not even a spacer ring.

[Sagi]

This is the set up I have in mind...

Headunit : Pioneer AVH-P4300DVD

Speakers : Polk Audio db6501

Amp: Kenwood Excelon XR-4S 4-channel car amplifier — 120 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms

Subwoofer: JL Audio CP108LG-W3v3 FlatWedge™ slot-ported enclosure with one 8" W3v3 subwoofer OR this Subwoofer: Pioneer TS-SWX251


Back Up Camera: Boyo VTL375


What do you guys think of this set up?

[bigaudiofanat]

If your running a sub you want a one or two channel amp. Because you will be running the speakers off the head unit. In the case you want to run speakers and sub off a amp look at the alpine pdx5 and than you can run the polk mm series because you will have more power to run them with a amp.

[Sagi]

Originally Posted by bigaudiofanat

If your running a sub you want a one or two channel amp. Because you will be running the speakers off the head unit. In the case you want to run speakers and sub off a amp look at the alpine pdx5 and than you can run the polk mm series because you will have more power to run them with a amp.

What's wrong with the amp that I listed? It's a 4 channel, can't I use 2 channels for the 2 polk speakers.. then the other 2 channel, bridge them to power the sub?

[samb03]

If out are going through the trouble of running wires for amps, installing a new head unit, back up camera, and sub. what is the fear of complicating the install with spacers for our door speakers. You can get the cheap from zenclosures and it is a couple more screws to turn. that's it. Why limit yourself when you have an amp strong enough to power just about any 6.5in speaker you want?

[Sagi]

Originally Posted by samb03

If out are going through the trouble of running wires for amps, installing a new head unit, back up camera, and sub. what is the fear of complicating the install with spacers for our door speakers. You can get the cheap from zenclosures and it is a couple more screws to turn. that's it. Why limit yourself when you have an amp strong enough to power just about any 6.5in speaker you want?

Well I thought it involves drilling things... and I don't have much experience with installing audio equipment. It seems like zenclosures have different sizes for the spacer holes, how do I know which one would fit with the speakers that I want?

What would your recommendation be for speakers?

[kenchan]

Originally Posted by Sagi

I do have the 10" 200watt Basslink, but I thought there was a 6" bazooka that can put out 300watts. I'm guessing watts don't mean everything?

yah, dont go just by wattage. 10" will move a larger volume of air with less impact on the driver unit travel and excursion if you go by size and percentage. a 6" will need to force itself to work significantly more to push the amount of air a 10" can do, thus higher wattage needed... and i think that's where the bad side effect of slow attack and tone hanging is generated.

concert hall subs are 15"+ for a reason.

[bigaudiofanat]

Originally Posted by Sagi

What's wrong with the amp that I listed? It's a 4 channel, can't I use 2 channels for the 2 polk speakers.. then the other 2 channel, bridge them to power the sub?

If your going to run a sub with it you have to make sure the amp can run at 3 channels which i do not think the kenwood can. Also you have to make sure the ohms of the sub is going to be ok with a bridged channel. Most 4 channel amps are made to run bridged at 2 channels not 3 channels.

[Sagi]

awww.. guess I need to research more.