Well, when I do go my Z we'll see if we can't figure something out. It would be great to be able to do be able to learn about all this while doing the install.

Today's work looks absolutely great.

What made you decide not to put dynamat down?

didnt feel that it was needed. The Z is a really small car and the sound is captured really well. No need to spend the extra $150-$200 and use a whole day for installing something thats going to trap sound that doesnt really have to travel very far at all. Now if this install was going into my SUV thats a different story..

Gotcha. That's understandable, but reading other threads it seemed it wasn't so much to trap the sound as it was to keep road noise down.

I'd probably do it myself, but I can definitely understand why you wouldn't.

Why would I want to keep the noise out? Its a sports car! Isn't that part of the reason of having one? The hear the rip roar of the engine?

LOL indeed!!! Unless you want it to be a quiet sports car ride.

Ha ha. Great point!

I will definitely use the iPod cable at the very least to charge my iPhone...

Nice looking De and nice job Matt.

I don't want it to be ultra-silent. I do want to cut down on a bit of the road noise. You notice it quite a bit when you do alot of highway (concrete) driving.

Yep Driving about 3700 Miles on the hwy a month gets a little noisy and not to fun, in the city it's fine a little engine himmin' along, but for 10 hours at a time at 3000RPM gets old quick. Must be why so many high end GT cars are so quite inside...

I do most of my driving on the highways as well. Don't really mind the "noise" especially when I have the stereo blasting. I'd rather spend the $150-$200 on other equipment. To each his own.

dynamat is a nice touch though. i have to say even just doing the trunk floor and part of the rear wheel arch made a dramatic difference in low freq clarity.

if you check out 90ST's album he did the trunk and whole floorboard under the seats and everything. he's a traditional audio guy approaching car stereo's from an acoustic approach (honestly this is the correct way to do it) where as a lot of the younger folks are approaching from a more electronic DSP approach (convenient way).

SO do you want to hear the "rip roar" of the engine or the stereo?:stirthepot:
LOL

Either or! Again personally I don't feel that I need it. You can think otherwise. I would rather spend my $150-200 on other things.

... like what? :p

:icon18: LOL too funny!

I would agree with not adding dynamat and using the money for other things.

It is like having a ferrari with a great v10 screaming behind you it would be a waste to get rid of that sound.

boooo~! you are a dynamat hater. :shakes head:

:icon17: :rofl2:

Not at all my civic I have the entire thing done. But its a 4 banger so not a good noise coming from my car like a sports car.

Geee I don't know.. Speakers, an amp, subwoofer, the monthly payment, insurance... Or how about things in my personal life.. Mortgage, social life, beer, food, etc etc.. I love my car but I have other things going on in my life.

:confused: i dont see donating $200 to kenchan... ;) :p

I'll donate $200 to kenchan once a month in exchange for him taking care of my mortgage!

Ferrari's don't have V10's...

maybe the F1 car? :D

Maybe, it may even have damping in it...:stirthepot:

Question about the install, what method did you use for securing the crossovers in the kicks? Screw,Glue,Tape? I am about to start my DB65 install and your mounting looks clean and solid, any issues here?

Thanks

V8 and V12's, I found that the Dynamat actually improved the engine sound in the cabin as it wasn't fighting out the road noise from behind me. Now all I hear is the engine not the tires on the road which can get very loud.:tiphat:

I'm in TX :tup:

Work looks good Matt. Did you just cut out the factory tweeters to mount the new ones? GJ running that PITA 20AWG speaker wire into the doors.

Yes they were cut out and the new ones put in their place. As for the question for the crossover, they are just pushed underneath large piece of wire up above the kick panel. They are not going to come out and are out of the way.

Thanks for the write up and pics. I was planning to use the same mic location, we have the same HU (920BT). Are you still happy with the clarity, mic still working good up there? Do you have to talk lounder or anything?

Also I read I would not need the dash kit since I have a Nismo. Thanks for the tip, I guess I'll be ordering one today...

the mic works perfectly. In fact people told me that it was really loud so I actually needed to lower the volume a bit... as for the dash kit, definitely get it. It makes the headunit look so much cleaner.

I like the head unit a lot but its not perfect. The nav takes some getting used to and the Bypass is a major pain in the butt to get working. Honestly if I could redo the whole situation, I probably would go with the Kenwood 6160. I do miss having a volume knob and the bypass is supposed to be much easier with the Kenwoods...

I have the Pioneer ND-BC4 camera. I just briefly looked at the wiring, it only appears to just have power and ground that you have to attach. You don't have to run the purple wire to that module. I assume the stereo does the switching rather than that little module thing.

Extra wire from camera all cleaned up.
http://i483.photobucket.com/albums/r...z/IMAG0214.jpg

Matt is the reverse wire easy to find under the center console? Also is the speed wire for the pink wire on the Pioneer harness near there or is it tapped elsewhere?

I like that, may have to use your idea for routing the cam wire.

That is the harness that goes into the stock radio right? Not the Metra/Scosche Nissan harness you mate with the Pioneer harness. I got a PAC SWI-PS and the instructions are a little vague on that. Since there is no steering wheel wires on the Scosche harness I assume the 2 white wires everyone mentiones that you have to add resistors to for the PAC is on that one in your pic right (factory Nissan plug)?

Great fit.

What did you use to get rid of the gap? What product was it?

He used the Metra 370Z dash kit.

Would I still have a gap on the NISMO?? Are the gaps larger on Pioneers vs. Kenwoods?

Yes, the Nismo has the same panel as all the other non-Bose models. As far as other Pioneers they might vary from series to series. The OP (and I) have the AVIC-X920BT. There are others on the board with Kenwoods. Go look at AK's write up in his signature.

I've heard that the gap is more prominent with Pioneers and less noticeable with Kenwoods and Alpines.

How is the rear camera mounted beside the plate light, is it attached with screws/bolts or something else?

The camera comes with a mounting bracket which has an adhesive stripe on it. The advhesive is very strong and once it's mounted it will not come off.