Considering new HU
 

So as the title indicates, I'm considering doing a new head unit in my new 15' base model.

Is it possible to do this with harness adapters and not having to splice into factory wiring??

yes. Metra 70-7552 and 40-NI12 for antenna adapter

The only thing to consider is if you want to keep your Steering wheel controls, you have to install an after market controller, and the instructions for those call for tapping into a couple of factory wires.

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Thank you -- that was going to be my next question. I knew the whole steering wheel control think is where it gets dicey...

There's no adapters or harnesses available for that??

Nope. Just gotta tap into the lines. Military splicing works beautifully

Not sure what military splice is, but given the small quarters in our 370's, I think I could get away without having the steering controls.

Does anyone have experience with the pioneer 4100nex. This is the HU I'm leaning towards. Likely will pair it with some hybrid audio speakers...

Can anyone confirm the standard harnesses available work with the 2015+ models?? The headunit changed in 2015 to add USB, bluetooth, speed sensitive volume compensation, etc. on none bose models.

Neither Metra or Scosche show any support for the 2015+ 370z...

This thread shows the stock headunit out, but the thread starter never updated the status of his build/install.

I don't want to spend the money and get all the gear here and have it be a no go. I'm cool with loosing the steering wheel controls, but don't want to cut into the factory harness at all. That way I can always reinstall the factory unit if needed....

Looked at the service manual and the pinout for the Metra harness -- it does not have the correct pinout for 2015+ 370s with the base stereo system.

Does anyone know if it's possible to move pins around on these harnesses?? Or even if I buy two of the Metras, and tear one apart for the pins??

This will be a game ender as I'm not cutting into factory wiring...

I used the Metra harness without cutting any wires, yeah it's not perfect and a lot of wires on it just don't hook up to anything on my 2016, but it works with what it has, you just need to pay attention to where the wires are supposed to go ;).

Thank you for the reply Night -- I'm surprised it work as well for you. As looking at the Metra pinout against the service manual, the only correct pin is for the primary power (#19 battery). I've attached the service manual pinout and metra pinout for reference.

I have no need for any of the speaker pins as I will run better wire from the headunit myself. But what I do need are pin numbers: #9 (illumination +) and #7 (ACC power). Of course, when looking at the Metra layout, both #7 & #9 are blank on the 70-7552 harness.

Looking at the 4100nex manual, both of these connections are needed on the receiver for Ignition switch (acc power #7 pin) and Illumination (+ #9 pin).

Which is why I ask is it possible to move pins around if needed?

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...28.13%20PM.png

http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/j...29.54%20PM.png

Or am I reading these upside down/wrong way?:icon14::confused:

I know you don't want to splice into the factory wires, but before you completely rule it out take a look at the Posi-Taps. They are easy to use and pretty nondestructive. I'm planning my own install now, and plan to use them.

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My Bad
 

So I looked at the 2012, 2013, 2014, and 2015 service manuals and compared all the base model unit harness pinouts, and I was reading the 2015 diagram upside down...:rolleyes::icon14:

Even though the 2015+ base HU added the phone/usb/bluetooth interface -- the pinout for master power, acc power, and illumination is all the same. These are the major things you would need adding an aftermarket HU. Think most people run new speaker wire, but you could even use the stock if you wanted as that pinout is correct as well.

So anyone wondering about 2015's on up with the base audio -- the Metra harness will work.

I just installed a 4100NEX in my Z. Worked perfect with the metra 70-7552 wire harness and 40-NI12 antenna adapter.I too did not hook up steering wheel controls as I have never used them.
Is there anything specific that you would like to know about the HU?

Is the '15 wiring different than the '12? I just did mine a few days ago, pulled out all the unused pins, have full steering wheel control and didn't cut a single wire. Let me know if I can help.

Thanks for the reply Madwi -- how are you liking the 4100NEX?? Nothing specific I had to ask, just wasn't sure if there was anyone else here that had this HU...

Thanks for the reply BoneZ...

The wiring isn't different actually. I went back and looked at the service manuals from 2012 on, and all the wiring is the same despite the different headunit in that appeared in 2014 in the base system.

I'm thinking of doing the same thing as you -- pilling out the unused pins. What steering wheel interface did you use?

Axxess SWC-1. Plugged in, turned car on, held vol up until the leds went off and I was done.

I can also show you an easy way to get the pins out if you need.

That would be great. You used the Metra harness?

Because if I can pull a couple pins, and put those where the steering wheel control are on the factory harness -- then there's no wire splicing which I don't want to do.

Yes, I used that kit. I was able to pull out 6 unused wire, reusing 3 for the SWC-1. I had to cut nothing.

Awesome -- how did you remove the pins? The tiny flathead screwdriver trick to unlock the pins -- or did you have to use a soldering iron to unlock the pins from the housing?

I took a small sewing needle, clipped off the eye part and flattened it out with a hammer. It fits right into the little rectangular slot above the pin, pushing down the lock tab and you just pull the wire out.

Great idea -- thanks so much!

Kinda like this (hope my chicken scratch makes sense)

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09...72dff21e93.jpg

That's perfect -- I had watched some different videos on repining harnesses -- so that's actually what I had in my mind. Glad to know with the Metra you can remove them this way and you don't have to loosen them through the wall of the adapter plug with a soldering iron...

Yep, easy. Just make sure before you put a pin back in that you lift up the tab just a bit to insure it locks back in.

So what experience do people have running speakers off aftermarket head unit power??

I also started a thread over at DIYMobileAudio, and have been getting feedback that changing to components on even aftermarket head unit power -- I will be loosing volume and bass response.

This is to suggest that quality component sets really need an amp as well.

Any experience as it relates specifically to our vehicles??

I love it. Works really well and has great features. If you choose to buy a bypass for the video to play while in motion, be sure to get the unit specifically for the 4100.

I actually saw your post of DIY and went looking for your thread here :icon17:

I'm bummed that the suggestion is -- even with using the 4100NEX headunit -- that if I'm not using an external amp, that using aftermarket component sets will yield lower volume and less bass than the factory speakers.

Does anyone have any direct feedback from usage in our Z's on this??

Suggestion is to keep stock speakers and run them with the 4100NEX...

Save up your get the components you need or just stick with oem everything. If you are buying a quality head unit why would you run it at less than optimal. That would be like getting a twin turbo set up and running without any boost...

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Sorry Hotrodz, but I don't understand your response. It's not a money issue. It's an ease and practicality issue of not wanting to install an amp.

That being said, were you agreeing that aftermarket components aren't a wise choice if not using an amp -- even with an aftermarket head unit like the 4100??

Yup, you got to push power through speakers to make them work optimally, just as a turbo pushes air through the intake system to make power.

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Madwi and I have Lanzer door speakers, they cheap and sound awesome. You may want checkout this thread http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/1...akers-but.html.

Also, we both have Alpine MVR-F300 4 channel amp. It is small and can be placed under the seat if you want to conceal it. Also, it is digital so heat build up is not an issue. I hope this helps.

Thanks so much -- had seen that thread and looked at those drivers. I will start with just the HU as it has much more complex EQ and time alignment. Perhaps I will be happy with just that. Just don't want to go down the amp road and having to run power line, rcas, trigger, etc...

Good deal and good luck with your upgrade.:tiphat:

Thanks -- appreciate the feedback. The more time I spend reading and everything, if I'm going to have the dash open in everything -- maybe it makes sense to at least add an amp to the system when doing all this work??

If I do ultimately decide to add an amp, it will still be *without* a sub. Just not going to give up what little cargo space our cars have.

That being said -- if I get a decent 2 channel or 4 channel amp (to run bridged) -- I will be able to get a lot more out of an after market set of components correct??

I didn't loose any cargo room with my sub. ;)

Haha...I was just looking at your build (awesome job BTW). But that's just a bit more involved than I want to get. As much as a would love to run a sub...