Advice for speaker/sub/amp selection
 

Hello,

Well I just picked up my Z (base + sport) last night :happydance:

I got the base model planning to replace the stereo system. I'm planning to go with a Kenwood DNX6140 HU but have no idea what components, sub, and amp to go with. I had an IS350 (non-ML) before and was pretty happy with the stock sound system. So I'm not looking for anything crazy. I listen to a wide range of music; rap, pop, alternative, etc.

For components I would like to be able to use the stock locations without major modifications since I'm on a lease and will need to go back to stock after. For sub I'm planning to get a Zenclosure, probably 10" just due to cost for sub/amp. For amp I would prefer to just get one amp to make it easier to mount and install.

As for budget I would like to spend no more then $750 for the components, sub, and amplifier. I wouldn't mind spending less either. I have no brand preference really. And the cost of the box, wires, etc will be separate.

Any advice on speaker/sub/amp selection would be appreciated! I can just pick them randomly but would like people with more experience to help me out in this dept. Thanks!


TJ

With that budget here is what I would I would recommend: (These prices are taken from an Major Authorized Online Car/Home Audio comapany)

Option 1 would definitly get you into the game of high performance car audio. I recommend a single 12 vs a 10. You wont regret this, a 12 will deliver excellent sq and devestating spl in this car on modest power. The JL Audio 12W0V2 is by far the best performing/sounding sub for the price! Plus you can get a nice JL mesh grill to protect it.

Option1:
Alpine SPR-17S $250.00
Alpine MRP-F300 - $200.00
JL Audio 12W0v2- $112.00
Total - $562.00

Option2 will give you more power and dynamics and the focal speakers are just awesome. The lowest end (Access) Focal's sound and perform as good or better than most manufactures high end speakers. They are extreamly efficent so they dont need much power to get loud!

Option 2: (Better Amp and component speakers)
Focal Access 165 A1 $300.00
JL Audio G4500- $350.00
JL Audio 12W0v2- $112.00
Total - $762.00

For an enclosure I recommend the Zenclosures is the best pre-fab box out there and very reasonable.

Thanks for the tip! I'll take a look at your recommendation. Question regarding amp I don't need a Class D amp for this setup? I'm not really sure on details of why a Class D is better then Class A/B but just know that it is :)

I would stay away from JL not because they are junk just because they are way over priced for what you get from them. Also on your budget there is better stuff you can get for your money. Sorry 2fast4thelaw just voicing m opinion. Also I think 750 is stretching it a bit I would say 1000 is a good price range.
Well you asked for my recommendations so here they are.

Amp
The only reason I selected this amp is because of its size and the power it can produce. The other amps are alternatives to this one
PDX-5 - Alpine 5 Ch 600 Watt Digital Power Amplifier PDX5

PA250.2 - Polk Audio 2 Ch 250 Watt Amplifier

TRX2.550 - Soundstream 2 Ch 550 Watt Amplifier

16-MCA150 - Memphis 75 x 2 ClassAB Full Range Amplifier

Sub Amp

BXi-608 - Hifonics 1 Ch 600 Watt Brutus Amplifier

BXI 610 - Hifonics 600W Class A/B Mono Amplifier

ZX500.1 - Kicker 500W 1 Channel Amplifier

Sub
SR124DVC - Polk Audio 12" 1400 Watt Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer

This one I recommend if you are just looking for some bass and nothing precise
07CVT12-4 - Kicker 12" 800 Watt 4 Ohm Subwoofer CVT12

And this being my personal favorite
IDQ12V2.D4 - Image Dynamics 12" IDQ Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer

Speakers
Budget
MM6501 - Polk Audio 6.5" Component Speaker System

165A1 - Focal Access 6.5" 2 Way Component Speakers

CSX 265 - Rainbow Dream CSX 6.5" 2-Way Component System

Higher End
SPX-17REF - Alpine 6.5" Type-X Series Component Set

XS-65 - Image Dynamics 6.5" 2 Way Component System

SR6500 - Polk Audio 6.5" 2 Way Component System with External Crossover

Now with all this you can find a budget by choosing different things. My personal opinion would be to buy a part at a time of the better quality stuff. I am a personal fan of Image Dynamics and practically swear by there products. You know to reach me if you would like some additional help selecting parts. SORRY THIS LIST TOOK ME SO LONG I HAD TO THINK BEFORE SELECTING EACH PART.

Class d's are recommended for sub but they are not needed. They just run cooler than a/b amps.

Thanks bigaudiofanat! :tup:

I'll take a look at all the above recommendations and figure something out! :)

bigaudiofanat, the install you did where you mounted the alpine amp behind the driver seat did you drill into the panel to mount it?

I'm liking the Focal Access 165A1 and IDQ combination. Why the recommendation for the 5-channel amp though? I'll only be needing 3 channels seems like it's a waste but oddly enough the Alpine PDX-5 is cheaper then the PDX-4.150.

To answer both your questions one I drilled a small pilot hole and used screw with some "bite" to hold the amp there. If I had more time I would have removed the panel and bolted it to that area. Also I recommended the 5 channel amp because the 4 channels can be bridged to produce more power threw 2 channels.

hmm... drilling isn't an option for me since i'm leasing at least somewhere that visible. i'll figure something out when i get the amp in hand.

regarding the amp. wouldn't that be too much power though? say i get the PDX5 and the focal access 165A1, unbridge the amp is producing 75w RMS while the speakers are only rated 60w RMS. this goes along with a general question i have regarding RMS ratings. do i want to match up the RMS ratings of components/sub to the amp as closely as possible? or how does that really work/matter?

That is why there is a gain knob on 98% og amps so you can control how much power is sent to them. I always say better to have more power than less. Also try putting the amps under the seat. Also the amp will never get to the RMS unless the volume is at full tilt.

Is it feasable or worthwhile to buy a set of these speakers to simply swap out the stockers (without getting a new amp/sub/head-unit) just for some better sound-quality?

The polk MM series yes the others would sound better with more power but that is almost any speaker.

Focal underates thier power rating big time!. If they say 60 watts, you can safely double that and you will be fine. Like i said before about Focal, thier are extreamly efficient and will not need a lot of power.

For simplicity sake and cost savings I recommend a single amplifier. You dont need a 5 channel amp. A 4 channel properly configured will be adequate. Also Class - D amps are more efficent and will be easier on your electrical system. Most people dont realize that a car audio amp will quickly destroy your battery and alternator if its drawing more current then it can support.

I would not exceed 600 watts rms total in this car without changing your battery or you will be replacing it in a year or less.

Well 2 of the systems I have put in exceeded 600 watts RMS. Also I use to have a true 1000 watt rms amp and a 60 X 4 amp in my car and the only upgrade was a auto zone alternator. I think the z can handle way more than 600 watts. I am thinking around 950 is were you should start worrying a bit.

A .5 farad for 600watt RMS, or 1.0 Farad for 1000w rms capacitor would help a lot in making your car's battery last longer as well.
http://www.northsideelectronics.com/.../17-1FCAPM.gif

I have about 950 watts running in my Z and I don't have any problems with dimming or battery draining.

250.1:
1 Sub @ 2ohms = 500w RMS

600a4:
Front Focals VRS @4ohms = 75w RMSx2 150w
Stock Rears @ 2ohms 150w RMSx2 = 300w

DO NOT USE A CAP

I can link you to sooo many websites about how they are bad and just a band aid to a bigger problem. If you need one of those to stop dimming or what not you need to upgrade your alternator.

From everyone's advice I'm thinking about going with this setup:

Focal Access 165A1
IDQ12V2.D4 - Image Dynamics 12" IDQ Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer

Not sure on amp though, preference anyone? They're both the same price and similar rating.
G4500 - JL Audio 4 Ch 1000 Watt Amplifier
MRP-F600 - Alpine V-Power Series 4-channel 600 Watt Amplifier

I like alpine but JL amps are good as well you can go either one.

And how many feet of speaker wiring will I need for my setup? Most likely I'll be placing the amp under the seat.

Well you are only going to really need it for the sub and to the fronts. So around 25ft of 14 gauge and maybe 12ft or 10 gauge for the sub.

You can use the factory speaker wire in the doors IF YOU WANT but you will get better power threw a new piece going to the new speakers.

thanks!

what gauge wiring are the stock do you know? how hard was it to run the new wiring into the door? i don't think it's that bad i haven't taken a close look at it yet. and how long RCA cables do you recommend? 12ft? 17ft?

Well the new wire you will have to drill a hole threw the door harness to run the new wire threw the factory wire is like 18 gauge. Just remember to run a new piece to the new tweeter.

And the one peice of advice killed five small children in a third world country. :(

I've always wanted to run aftermarket speaker wire to all my speakers, I'm sure I would be able to tell the difference.

Also, please type through Big, not threw, JEEZ. lol <3

???

Definitly DONT waste your money on a cap! Caps are a bandaid solution at best. The 370Z has a very hefty alternator, Its 150AMPS!! the largest I have ever seen in a compact car. You can exceed 1000watts rms but you really should get a Stinger or Oddyesse Dry cell battery if you want any kind of life out of the battery if you are pushing this kind of power.

The battery is the only weak link here in the 370Z.

I know Big A is not a big JL Audio fan and thats ok, but I think JL is a great option with your budget. The G series amps by JL are a great value and are excellent amplifiers for the money.

I think the IDQ12 is a great sub and 250 watts is PLENTY! of power. This sub is pretty legendary and it will make you one happy camper! The Alpine MRP amps are very reliable but not the most dynamic amps. I think you would be happier with the JL G4500, its a better amp! However, Alpine PDX 4.100 would be even better and its more efficient! However, add another $100.00 to the budget.

Here is another tip that will save you some cash. For amp wire, go to a Welding shop and buy some 4 or 2 GA Welding Cable! Its premium grade with the small strands and its pure OFC Copper and its half the price of Car Audio wire. (Most Car Audio wire nowdays is Copper Coated Aluminum)

BTW, If you were happy with the stock system in your Lexus, this system is going to Rape your ears!

I honestly do not want to get into a war about this. I use to swear by caps and all back in the day. Than I found out somethings about them and all. Yes they do help take some load off the electrical system. But if you do need a cap you would be better off getting a new alternator or a second battery. Like I said people have there opinions. So let's agree to disagree.

Big-A, I am in no way disagreeing with you at all. In fact I totally agree with you. Caps are not the answer. I was just adding in the fact that the 370 already has a great alternator. The stock batteries in the Z are not very good and will not last long.

I am just recommending to anyone who does a major system in the Z to NOT overlook upgrading the battery as well.

Okay good deal than. LOL Ya that stock alt can dish out some pretty good power. I always put a optima yellow top battery in if I am serious about my audio system.

Thanks for the tips! Yea I'm sure it'll sound better then my Lexus. This is the first time trying components and a real sub out. :)

Again thanks all for the advice/tips! I already ordered my zenclosure and speaker spacers. Now just getting the rest of the items in order.

For the sub since I'm going to be running a single sub at 4ohm I want the IDQ12V2.D2, right? I checked the wiring diagrams but just want to confirm.

No the D4 you want a dual voice coil 4 ohms sub. The D2 is if you were going to run it at 1 ohms which not all the amps can run at that. so D4 what you want.

Really? I want the run the single sub at 4ohm to my amp, correct?

I looked at this and I thought I would want a D2. http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/pdf/...2%20WIRING.pdf

Here's the diagram for D4. http://www.imagedynamicsusa.com/pdf/...4%20WIRING.pdf

It is a DUAL voice coil which means it can be wired as a 8 ohms or 2 ohm load. You are looking at the Single voice coils. Here is the diagram you should be looking at. And here is the sub

http://www.woofersetc.com/p6225/IDQ1...-Subwoofer.htm

http://www.the12volt.com/12voltimage...m_dvc_2ohm.gif

So with what you're saying I'm going to end up with a 2ohm load to my amp. With the JL G4500 and ch3/4 bridge it says minimum 4ohm. So then I would want the dual voice coil 2 ohm sub, right?

And even if I ran an amp the supported 2ohm since the Focal's are 4ohm don't I have to run all the speakers as 4ohm to the amp?

And the link I sent were for the DVC... says dual on both of those pdf's.

Well I never knew which amp you were going with. So if you are going with the JL than you want the DVC 2 ohms and the speakers will be fine they are 4 ohms.

Thanks for the help! So If I run the Alpine MRP-F600 then I would want the DVC 4ohms since the amp can handle the 2ohm load.