Originally Posted by Unclemeaty

I'm partial to buying the old nastalgic amps from the 90s. Thay can be had for dimes on the dollar through Craigslist or even ebay if you are patient.

I bought 2 Precision Power Powerclass amps off Craigslist for the most amazing deal. These amps are now legendary artifacts only superceeded by the PPI Art series and anything produced by Zed Audio, Orion, and old-skool Rockford.

PPI PC2150 (150x2 rms @4ohms, 600x1 rms bridged @4ohms) found on Craigslist for $80. THis amp costed $550-$700 back ten years ago. Class AB clean power great for SQ. I doubt you'll find this type of deal for this amp though. The seller didnt actually know what he had; other than "some old amplifier".

PPI PC275 (75x2 rms @4ohms, 300x1 rms bridged @4ohms) found on Craigslist for $75. This amp costed $300-$400 back ten years ago. Again, Class AB Clean power great for SQ.

Total spent on amps - $155 for ~750w rms of AB class power.

Both amps have 24db per octave crossovers. The PC2150 has a built in thermal exhaust fan. Maximum pull potential from these amplifiers is about 125Amps. With mysetup I suspect they'll pull about 80 amps while supplying power to just three speakers: a 10" Pioneer shallow mount and two low-brand DB-Drive 6.5" components. I was just barely able to stuff them secretely and secerly under the foam bridge behind the rear anti-roll bar. temeratures are a concern but not yet an existing problem to speak of.

For wiring I've got 4ga going back from the battery, then split off into 8ga for the PPI power plugs. I'll probably spring for the 4ga plugs on ebay later on.

THe subwoofer is a 2 year old Pioneer 10" Shallow mount; Pioneer has since discontinued the model but now sells an "iB Flat" series which have a better reputation then the one I have. My PC2150 at 600w you can imagine is waaaay over-specs for this subwoofer rated at about 300w rms. The only danger with overamplification like this is with audible distortion due to the woofer hammering too hard. I have the gains on the PC2150 turned almost all the way down. I have my opionions of Subwoofer maximum ratings and you'll likely have yours. I'd say 600w of clean AB class power will have much less ill effect than anything 600w in D Class power. Its all about distortion and clipping; which I have almost none of. The DB-Drive speakers I have in the doors are again over-amplified by twice of their rated power of 40w rms. Between the HU and the Amp's steep crossover I again should not have much long term trouble. Again, I over-amplify to keep things comming out of the amp very clean. I really doubt the system ever peeks out and draws full power anyways.

The HU I have is a Pioneer AVH-p3200BT which has very good sound quality and features for the price. Its got a 5.7" or so screen and plays DVDs, has an EQ, Bluetooth for phone calls, and some decent features. It has everything minux the nav, but I got it for a good price so it didnt matter.

I really need to stuff some pictures of my .2 Cubic foot sealed box enclosure. It sits inside the stock spare tire and only raised the trunk/carper about 1/4 inch. I custom built it for $45 using MDF from Home Depot and its grill is so strong you can stand on it.

I've got 15 large sheets of Dynomat covering and quieting all of the rear and half of the middle area. This is probably the single most expensive audio mod, minus the HU. Its worth it.

I have yet to hear a better sounding system in a 370z. When the time comes - if ever - I'll replace the 6.5" components for something much better. Then I'll build a new box in place of the spare with something more exotic and powerfull; like a single long-throw 10" or 12".

Costs so far:
$45 - 4ga wiring kit
$325 - Pioneer AVH-p3200bt
$150 - Pioneer 10" Shallow sub
$45 - Home Depot MDF box
$35 - DB Drive 6.5" Components (They were mis-priced at the shop and usually run about $90)
$80 - PPI PC2150 Amp
$75 - PPI PC275 Amp
$240 - 15 sheets of Dynomat (3 trunk kits (5 sheets each))
$100 - Extra doo-dads and what-nots from Home Depot / Audio place

$1095 total