I did my install this weekend. I was on and off it all weekend but total time is about 4 hrs if you take your time. I have some info/tips for those interested and here is a link to the photos they sent me (1-24) for the install so you can get a better look at the job. Pics 25 and up are my install pics which will help a lot.
AE Performance Oil Cooler 370Z install pics
I want to thank the guys, Dustin, Casey & Ryne, at AE for getting this kit to me by this weekend so I'd have time to get it in before some events. The only thing they could have provided with this kit is some written instructions, you just go by the pics they send you. It's not a big deal, but as with all custom applications there are always tips/notes that can really save some time and frustration.
1) You need to either get the car on a lift or use some drive up ramps as I did so you can get under the car to work. You don't need a lot of height just enough to do an oil change really.
2) Remove bumper, which there are plenty on threads around with that info. (Stillen has it in the G3 Intake instructions which you can grab off their site)
3) I won't go through the whole process the pics take care of the major things but I will mention some little things.
4) Be sure that the threads in the adaptor plate are clean and smooth. I ran into an almost failure because when I started to thread one of the nipples in it only went in about 1 1/2 -2 turns and started to bind up. I know it wasn't crossed and it felt fine at the start but I had to fight to get it out and it ended up ruining the nipple and the first thread on the adaptor. I went to a local speed shop who had nipples and he ran a tap through the adaptor as well to clean up both threads. We noticed that the threads weren't perfect as it came and when we were done the new nipple went in like butter. I used Never-Seez Pipe Compound with Teflon, as the lubricant/sealer and both nipples went in a good 4 threads and got nice and tight. I'm going to call AE and let them know about the threads so they let whoever know to be sure they are done perfectly.
5) The biggest pain in this job is relocating the power steering cooler. You do have to move it for the oil cooler to fit. The pics here show the washer fluid container is an aftermarket because of the intakes they are using. With the stock one it's a bit tight to get at one of the fittings you need to remove to put the longer hose on for the relocated cooler. I didn't remove the washer fluid container but after fighting to get the old line off the aluminum fitting and putting the new one on I wish I had. You can decide for yourself but it is do-able. Be sure to catch the 1/2 - 3/4 quart of PS fluid that is going to come out when you disconnect the lines. I didn't try to reuse it and needed to add about 3/4 qt, use Nissan's or Dexron VI only.
6) Mounting the adaptor was easy, it pretty much points forward and I angled mine downward just a hair so that the top line, which uses the straight end has a little space between it and the wiring for the alternator. Now be sure to run the lines correctly to the cooler for flow right. It is marked on the adaptor for the flow. But if you look at the pics, the angled end on the bottom of the adaptor will connect to the bottom of the oil cooler as well, and the top to the top. Each line has one straight and one angled and they each go the opposite on the adaptor and cooler. Be sure to use some Never -Seez again on the nipples that thread into the oil cooler itself. BUT DO NOT use anything on the actual hose lines that screw on, those should be dry and don't over tighten them, just make them snug with an extra little push or you'll strip them out.
7) Another thing I noticed was that you want to mount the cooler to the mounting bracket with it slightly leaning forward. There is a little play in the two bolts on each side. If it's straight up vertical the back side of the cooler will rub against the outside temp sending unit; You can see in the pics in front of the PS cooler. I bent the bracket for the sensor back a bit as well and then nothing hits. You also need to bend the horn a little so it's not rubbing.
8) When you mount the front bumper aluminum support brace back up keep an eye on the lines as they go in-between the washer res, it's very tight and it seemed no matter how I did it they were going to rub the back edge of the brace which was a little sharp. The lines are coated and it probably wouldn't be a problem but to be sure I wrapped the lines in some clear hose and tie-wrapped it for an extra barrier.
9) Remember to fill your PS fluid back up and it will go down when you start it up. Be sure to add it right away to the low cold line again. You will hear the PS pump making a little noise until it gets the air out and fills back up. With a new oil filter I needed about 6 1/2 qts to fill it up, up from about 5 qts normally.
10) Be sure to run it up to temp while you have everything open so you can inspect for leaks everywhere. I did a short drive and re-inspected, and all was fine. I only had a chance to run it for about 25 minutes but it was 90 and humid and normally the temp would hit around 200 and creep to 230 as I cruised around without really pushing it too hard. It never went over 180 today. AE said that at the track it would never go over 240 no matter how hard or long they pushed it. Without the cooler they could barely get in a lap before limp mode. So I bet I'll never see 240 again, or on the street at least. If you guys have noticed that normally once it's getting hot and is over 200 sitting in traffic the fans could never bring down the temp. But when I was at a light and it was just over 180 the fans came on and I watched it drop to 170, which was awesome and a first!
Overall I think the kit is top notch and I will update the thread later after I've really tested it out.
