Quote:
Originally Posted by phunk
How many miles on the engine? If its under 100k and mostly stock, just leave it alone. They last a really long time, only ever heard of a couple separating after a decade or more. Sand/scuff off the rusty spot and paint it if it bothers you. Removing it at all is a waste of time, and changing it to the ATI will provide you nothing more than placebo effect. This is something to consider during an engine build, but just for the heck of it is silly IMHO.
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Well, it appears I have no choice to leave it alone for now. It seems that my crank bolt may be seized or at least very tightly installed. I do see rust on periphery of bolt.
I hit it with PB blaster the night before. Had the electric fans out as well. Car was on Quick jack highest lift.
Got an ok turn radius with a 1/2" breaker bar and a pipe to give me an extra 4" of length. (needed all I could get) .
Started to turn the engine backwards in 1st gear. went to 6th and it held. I gave it a lot of pull, but nothing was happening.
I got creative with an impact flex socket and another flex joint and extension on the Milwaukee nut buster. Got a solid impact and hit it several times. nothing budged. (mind you the angle on this set up was extreme, but I did manage to hold it on)
I didn't want to heat it up as I feared damaging the oil seal. I'm not sure It would help while engine is installed or I dont have the ability to get a longer breaker bar/pipe combo. Being on a hoist would have certainly helped. So I didn't attempt heat in this situation.