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Tractionless · 02-23-2021, 06:21 PM

Ok so removal complete and Whiteline bushing in.

1. Used the 2" hole saw but started running into the center boss of the OE bushing. I was probably on an angle due to the size of my drill. Punched through a few times with a screwdriver and it came out no problem.

2. Instead of cutting all the way through the outer portion of the OE metal portion of the bushing I did one full depth cut to the subframe bore nd another partial. I then banged a screw driver between the subframe bore and outer portion of the OE bushing which folded making a tab. I was them able to use a screwdriver to collapse (pull in making the diameter smaller) the outer portion and pull out by hand. Think about how a snap ring works, same idea.

3. Used the flap wheel which worked amazing to smooth the subframe bore.

4. Lubed the bore and whiteline bushing with anti-seize and pressed in with an 8 Ton bottle jack from HFT which I already had on hand. It fits perfectly between the bushing and forward section of the subframe. I orientated the base at the bushing and ram toward the subframe. Less than 1 minute to push it in, zero bulging and other wise no drama. I tapped it with an 8 lb. hammer until the front of the bushing was even with the subframe bore. If it needs adjustment it will be easily pulled by the nut connecting it to the differential cover after the front two bolts are in for static orientation.

Thanks to Rusty for the heads up on the deep hole saw and flap wheel.

What a mess using the hole saw which required lube as to not stall my 120V Dewalt drill. Had to stop on several occasions to let the drill cool off as well as the OE bushing as when the rubber heats up, even with lube it begins to grab, stall down the drill and make tons of nasty rubber smelling smoke due to the friction.

02-23-2021, 06:21 PM	#24 (permalink)
Tractionless A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Atlantic SE Posts: 1,237 Drives: '10 K23 ST 7AT Rep Power: 30525	Ok so removal complete and Whiteline bushing in. 1. Used the 2" hole saw but started running into the center boss of the OE bushing. I was probably on an angle due to the size of my drill. Punched through a few times with a screwdriver and it came out no problem. 2. Instead of cutting all the way through the outer portion of the OE metal portion of the bushing I did one full depth cut to the subframe bore nd another partial. I then banged a screw driver between the subframe bore and outer portion of the OE bushing which folded making a tab. I was them able to use a screwdriver to collapse (pull in making the diameter smaller) the outer portion and pull out by hand. Think about how a snap ring works, same idea. 3. Used the flap wheel which worked amazing to smooth the subframe bore. 4. Lubed the bore and whiteline bushing with anti-seize and pressed in with an 8 Ton bottle jack from HFT which I already had on hand. It fits perfectly between the bushing and forward section of the subframe. I orientated the base at the bushing and ram toward the subframe. Less than 1 minute to push it in, zero bulging and other wise no drama. I tapped it with an 8 lb. hammer until the front of the bushing was even with the subframe bore. If it needs adjustment it will be easily pulled by the nut connecting it to the differential cover after the front two bolts are in for static orientation. Thanks to Rusty for the heads up on the deep hole saw and flap wheel. What a mess using the hole saw which required lube as to not stall my 120V Dewalt drill. Had to stop on several occasions to let the drill cool off as well as the OE bushing as when the rubber heats up, even with lube it begins to grab, stall down the drill and make tons of nasty rubber smelling smoke due to the friction. __________________ Toys Not Tots Last edited by Tractionless; 02-23-2021 at 06:24 PM.