Originally Posted by Jayhovah

The OEM Oil/Water cooler will, in some ways, fight against an aftermarket Air/Air cooler since it regulates to coolant temp vs ambient temp. On the positive side, it will bring your oil up to temp faster (as dts3 pointed out). On the negative side, it will also keep your oil warmer if you have an air/air cooler capable to lowering the oil temp below the coolant temp (34 row will easily do this on the street).

I am TT and do not have an air/air cooler... but I do have the GTM oil pan, which increases capacity and also acts as a large heatsink. For a street car, my oil temps are acceptable. However, believing many forum users' claims that the "OEM cooler does nothing" I went ahead and removed it in order to gain some clearance for servicing the oil filter (with my giant oil pan it's pretty tight in there) and what I found out was that the OEM Oil Cooler absolutely does something and is easily good enough for a street car (IMO!), even one like mine that is TT (again, I have a high capacity heatsink for an oil pan). I have a thread or post or something somewhere with a little data to support this...but IIRC in similar conditions, my oil temp settled at 260 without the cooler, 230ish with. Something like that... Again, I do not see any track time.

My advice - If you have an aftermarket Air/Air cooler, remove the OEM cooler so you can get the best performance out of the Air/Air and also just to avoid the sandwich-plate/plumbing-bonanza that you will have down there.

One more tip for anyone else considering a delete - removing the OEM oil cooler is super easy. Just remove the cooler and soft lines, replace the oil filter stud with one from '09-'11, and cap the hard lines. Doing it this way makes putting the thing back on super easy as well.

Sorry for the novel, hope it helps!