RadioFlyer

(Long post... sorry.)

What people are saying is incorrect. It's true that the Stillen setup is NOT ideal, but when they say that the intake temps are super high, they are right, BUT (and this is important) you were tuned on that high temp. So while your MAF is reading 80*, and the engine sees 120*, those were the same conditions you were under when you were tuned, so you ARE fueling correctly for the intake temps.

So with the W2A setup, with the Frozenboost intercooler, from what I've seen, the intake temps are in the 120-150* range, the A2A kit drops the intake temps by 20-50*, or a few degrees over ambient. THAT'S where the increased power comes from, as well as where the safety margin is. It's a good kit, and I'd have one if I weren't moving to CA and needed my car to be CARB legal, but the standard kit isn't as bad as everyone is making it out to be.

Especially if you are not running it out to redline. Don't forget that it's a centrifugal supercharger that builds boost as rpm's increase. So if you only change gears under 4-5K, you aren't building more than a few pounds of boost. Did you get a boost plot when you were tuned? If so, you would see that you only see 9psi at 7K-ish, and it's a gradual build up to them. So if you shift at 4K, you probably aren't seeing anymore than 3-4psi, which is fine on a motor. It also shouldn't be building super high intake air temps. It would be a different story if you were at a track day, where you spend 25 mins running each gear out to redline. But on the street or even a dragstrip, you aren't going to be in the danger zone for prolonged periods.

Everything will depend on how you were tuned. There are more things that could go wrong when you're trying to tune for super high intake air temps, and that might be the reason why Stillen has a reputation for killing motors, but if it's a good tune, then the difference of MAF temp -vs - intake air temp isn't the reason for blown motors. High intake temps by themselves and bad tunes are what I would call the reason for blown motors. Add to that, the Y-pie intake/MAF housing is difficult to scale, so that would be more of a reason for a bad tune.

If I were you, I would get tuned via ECUtek to tune with speed density to eliminate the variable of the inconsistent intake. I would also highly recommend the TopgunZ A2A kit. If you don't do the A2A kit, I'd at least do the Frozenboost heat exchanger. A 34 row oil cooler and upgraded radiator would be good on any motor, boosted or not. But your car isn't going to blow itself to pieces instantly, if you don't get the A2A kit.