JARblue

I never did a DIY but I've done it four times now. It's not a difficult install, but there are tight working spaces. For detailed instructions, RJM Performance has an installation PDF for their HD CMC you can find on the product page on their website (the removal part is for OEM, so you can use those steps and then reverse them for the install). Alternatively, paying a competent mechanic should not cost more than an hour or so of labor and may be worth it provided you can get to the shop.

The area around the master is pretty tight fitting. I remove all the surrounding cowls and to give myself as much room as possible. I first suck as much fluid as possible out of the reservoir to limit the amount spillage - brake fluid is nasty stuff so make sure you have lots of towels you can stick down in the engine bay to catch spilling fluid as you disconnect fluid lines. I don't think you have to remove the clutch reservoir itself, but I do in order to give myself more room. Remove the hose and then disconnect the hard line using flare wrench (10mm IIRC). Expect fluid to be spilled during this process. Once you've got the lines disconnected, you'll have to get down in the driver footwell to disconnect the master clevis fork from the clutch pedal as well as the nuts from the master cylinder studs that secure it to the firewall - these nuts can be difficult to get to with the OEM pedal, so you'll need a deep socket (12mm IIRC), extensions, and at least one u-joint swivel adapter (newest RJM pedal provides significantly easier access to them). Once the nuts are removed and the clevis fork disconnected, you should be able to remove the master from the engine bay side. You may have to completely unscrew the clevis fork from the master rod in order for it to clear the firewall opening. You'll have to find just the right angle to be able to remove the master.

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