Quote:
Originally Posted by Mitco39
I took off the boost ref line today, set my regulator to 55psi and its been working perfect. I think the added pressure was causing to much of a current draw and heating up my wiring. Ill know for sure when I finalize the tuning tomorrow hopefully. But even down to a 1/4 tank she would only drop to about 52psi under wot.
I think you might have one of the issues I was having. Do you have a way to watch fuel pressure? If you do, turn the key on let the system pressure up then kill the fuel pump and watch the pressure, it should slowly bleed. If it dumps all at once then you know you have a internal leak inside the basket. That said if you have a return type system a good practice is to turn the key on, wait 2-3 seconds for the pump to build up pressure then crank. If you go straight to cranking you have to wait for the pump to work up the pressure. Alternatively it could be tuning, in ECUtek there is fuel tables for cranking that may have to be adjusted. That said if your tuner dialed in the injectors correctly they they shouldnt have to touch them, I didnt but I am only at 750s.
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Thanks for the tip man. I do have CJM Return Fuel System. When i got the car back from the upgrades and tune the car work perfectly for 3 days after that it started acting up when cold and it was really bad. The car struggle after trying to crank 7-8 times then it would fire up. My tuner adjusted the fuel tables but still it does it but now is just after the 1st cranking that the car has difficulty to start. Plus now the damn car is throwing p2101 which is the throttle body on the passenger side which is just great
I'll be taking the car back to the shop to have it look at and do what you said. Thanks
