View Single Post
Old 04-19-2013, 10:20 AM   #7 (permalink)
DIGItonium
A True Z Fanatic
 
DIGItonium's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,800
Drives: 09 Z34-TT 6MT
Rep Power: 42
DIGItonium has a reputation beyond reputeDIGItonium has a reputation beyond reputeDIGItonium has a reputation beyond reputeDIGItonium has a reputation beyond reputeDIGItonium has a reputation beyond reputeDIGItonium has a reputation beyond reputeDIGItonium has a reputation beyond reputeDIGItonium has a reputation beyond reputeDIGItonium has a reputation beyond reputeDIGItonium has a reputation beyond reputeDIGItonium has a reputation beyond repute
Default

HA! This is very important advice Joe gave me.

Tighten everything up and crack the hard line to the master. You'll see it bubble. Once it goes away it'll start dripping fluid. Tighten it.

Then pump the peddle close to 30 times, and press down hard to the floor while someone cracks open the slave bleeder. You'll feel the pedal sink further down. Tighten the bleeder and repeat (manually lift the pedal from the floor). I did this at least 5 times.

All in all, roughly 30 min. to complete.

The last thing you want to deal with is air bubbles stuck in the master. This is when you never achieve resistance. When this happens, you either need to bench bleed (remove the master), or remove the linkage from the plunger and manually push it far down a few times to squeeze out the bubbles.

Also, you want to make sure the extra play up top is no more than 1" or so. You don't want a low engagement point with these cars because the CSC won't throw far enough, and you'll end up having trouble shifting. You don't want it too tight up top due to risk of overextending the CSC. So roughly 1" of play is good enough, and the resistance is tight and consistent regardless of temperature.
__________________
http://www.the370z.com/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=950&dateline=13162988  42
DIGItonium is offline   Reply With Quote