View Single Post
Old 11-14-2012, 02:14 PM   #10 (permalink)
DEpointfive0
Premium Member Bitches
 
DEpointfive0's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: SoCal
Posts: 14,824
Drives: a lot
Rep Power: 17151
DEpointfive0 has a reputation beyond reputeDEpointfive0 has a reputation beyond reputeDEpointfive0 has a reputation beyond reputeDEpointfive0 has a reputation beyond reputeDEpointfive0 has a reputation beyond reputeDEpointfive0 has a reputation beyond reputeDEpointfive0 has a reputation beyond reputeDEpointfive0 has a reputation beyond reputeDEpointfive0 has a reputation beyond reputeDEpointfive0 has a reputation beyond reputeDEpointfive0 has a reputation beyond repute
Default

I realized that I didn't fully answer your question... Why the loss is low end hp/torque, to be honest, I'm not 100% sure, I can speculate that a freer flowing exhaust gives you a bit of a loss because you're losing back pressure... At the same time, back pressure on a N/A is bull, there is no NEED for it, I bet it's more that the engine works better under stress... (Reason why people put like high pressure coolant caps). On the intakes, it's not 100% the temperature of the air, it's the FLOW that helps... And I'm sorry to anyone that has the HPS or similar intake tubes, they don't do anything, since the accordion is AFTER the MAF, it doesn't help...
Getting back to it, I think the reason you may have more of a power loss or lack of initial power is because the air has to physically move further, so short rams are better for that, but the temperature under the hood is ridiculous! So IMO It's better to have drop ins than short ram. (The stock intake boxes' ducting is actually quite good at getting cooler fresh air...) When you install the Takedas or Stillen G3's you run your piping THROUGH the stock intake box inlets.
DEpointfive0 is offline   Reply With Quote