Quote:
Originally Posted by Race_Tech
Not entirely true. You dont need to have the bolts wire locked. However the AP Racing kit above does have bolts which allow you to do so if you would like. Those are the same bolts and hardware that is supplied to 70% of the Nascar field and have not seen one single failure!
AP rotors pictured above are full floating at a float of .25-.30mm and since that is the only picture posted on this thread I will assume your comments are directly related to it which I will have to point out are incorrect. This is a true full float system, it is not bolted. The second picture is a float in bell system and is even better at radial and axial float but it is not as ideal of a system on a street car because of possible excess wear on the bell.
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My safety wire was to the performance friction rotors I posted about and no its not "Needed" but for a few minutes its worth the extra precaution.
Also, I am confused on how the AP rotors you posted up allow float from the angle they show no free motion at the hub that I can see and knowing AP they usually make decent stuff I am going to guess they use oval slots and a bolt with a sleeve to hold them from keeping the rotor tight. I have seen cheap 2pc rotors that are simply hard bolted to the hub clearly not a good design usually on cheap Honda type applications. (Ebay!) However, I don't see how this system allows any axial float and also the bolts will also wear on the bell/hat same as the systems I posted but they don't have the advantage of spreading the load across a larger surface like the performance friction style that I really like above and even the brembo to an extent that allow for interchangeable wear surfaces around the bolts. Clearly all rotor hats are going to see wear when you have float but I don't see how the AP is going to allow for any less wear.
I have used AP stuff before and its extremely nice stuff clearly this is a bit on the high end of there product line.
-Your Pal
Fishey