No, less number means more room for brakes. Less number means the mounting surface of the wheel to the hub is closer to the exact center of the wheel if looking at it from top to bottom. Less number also means the wheel will weigh more because the spokes are longer since they have to have more metal to reach the mounting surface further in to the wheel. A rpf1 +45 or +38 won't fit because it hits the caliper. But going lower extends the spokes out further and gets the inside of the wheel off the caliper.

I'd go with whatever makes you happy. However what I'd do and what I did when fitting wheels was buy a few spacers front and rear and see what fit best and what I liked best. If my rpf1 +45 fits with a 20mm spacer (so +25 overall), I'm sure the +27 will fit without issue and will look very nice without having to worry about the fender being lowered on swifts. However still buying a 5mm spacer wouldn't hurt and you can return what you don't use as long as you don't bolt it down and scratch the finish. Just pop the spacer on the stud and hold the wheel against it and see if it hits the caliper.

We all have that problem with enkie and our brakes!! But with spacer help we'll find a way!

So that is 9.5" front and rear with a +5 front and +15 rear?

See I can tell a difference. Even with -2.5 front camber you look way to far out on the front. It also looks like you have zero camber. Rear is a little tucked in but that's good. No worries about rubbing in high G corners. I bet it looks and handles good with that spacer removed.

PS, looking again, I'm surprised the rear looks that good. You're wheel is further in by 13mm than me but they look pretty damn close. Although you're lowered so maybe that's why.

Im planning on rpf1 9.5" +15 all around and was afraid to have to run a 10-15mm spacer in the rear to get back to where I'm at now, but looking at yours I probably don't have to.

All reasons why I went 9.5 rather than bigger and also why I only run 265 wide tyres - for a NA Z34, it is "enough".

One poster in the thread runs a TT setup and compains of slip (I'm assuming wheelspin and induced oversteer), so my guess is that when the TT comes on boost, even a 305 will struggle to hold grip, but that is another story .... IMHO there is such a thing as simply too much torque - especially in a road-car, but I'll put my flame-proof underwear on 'cos lots of people might want to disagree.

RB

Sorry to disagree with you here but lighter does NOT always mean better. If it was simply a matter of lighter is always better, why not run an even skinnier rim? It's simple, because at a certain point there is a trade off. Going too skinny and he loses out on traction. Also considering the weight difference is 1.1lbs per rim plus the added weight of the tire, he's still already shaving a lot of weight from the rims/tires compared to the 19's.

The OP hasn't even mentioned what kind of "tracking" he plans to do. Which would have a big impact on what would be ideal or even allowed. To my knowledge nothing has been stated in this post that 275 was the MAX he was looking for. Only that he was PLANNING on going for that. Going to the 9.5" he does impose the 285 is the MAX the rim can handle though. He also hasn't stated what his goals or future plans for the car are. If he plans on adding more power, the 275 on the rear could easily become a weak link. I brought it up as a "consider your future plans" and upgrade route.

Also considering that his car came stock with 285's on the rear, I see going down to a 275 as a downgrade which is IMHO is a pretty bad way to balance suspension. Why downgrade a portion of your setup to get to neutral or to rotate tires. You should upgrade the part that is lacking, not downgrade the part that has more.

Although, I do not know why I am bothering since reading comprehension is not your strong suit. PharmDZ has stated he is on 10.5 and you seem to have missed that part as well. Others have ran 10.5 square setups and done very very well on the one's I've seen. But then again, you're the ONLY one who knows what you're talking about and anyone who does anything different is an idiot right?

It's racing and cars, there's more than one way to do it. I never suggested my way was the only way, it's merely a hey there are 10.5's that you can go with as well, they fit and others have successfully tracked them.

And yes, as BGTV8 was able to deduce by READING my signature line, I am TT so my needs are drastically different than NA. Which I already stated my needs are different. I'm on Potenza RE-11s, have a custom alignment, Swifts, Nismo struts, dampers etc, Whiteline sways, and adj camber arms, toe bolts, etc. Regardless, my fronts at 285 are my weak link on AutoX. I don't do bad on AutoX, just they are the limiting factor preventing me from going in as fast as I want. So yes, I would like more tire in the front and plan on getting it shortly.

Either way, I took it as the OP was asking for options and OPINIONS. I gave mine and you gave yours. The OP doesn't have to listen to either of us if he doesn't want to.

FortuneLSX-TT ftw!

But it is always better when you're talking about running the same size tire. We are not talking about skinny tires. We are talking about a 275, period! In that case a lighter 9.5" will be perfect. A 10.5" heavier, more weight on the outside of the wheel will be worse! Period! Can't believe I have to explain this to you.

I understand that. He didn't ask us what he needs to run, he told us what he wants to run. And since some of the fastest 370z drivers on this forum run 285 square, I'll go ahead and say again, a 275 square on 9.5" will be perfect! And his future goals can allow him to step up to a 285 if need be. What if he wants to race Doran? He's only allowed 245/275 tires. Now the OP has to sell his wheels since a 245 can't fit onto a 10.5" wheel safely. We can argue this all day but a 275/285 rear is more than enough if you know what you're doing and the cars setup properly. You suggesting one day with more power he'll need even wider tires in the rear just goes against him again and others running faster than you or I, making him un-square.

I disagree. Square with proper setup will not be a down grade! Lol 10mm is nothing he'll ever feel, or you. Why do you think so many go square?

Lol why would I bother with you? You think heavier is better when we're talking about mounting the same size tire onto a wheel. So others never make mistakes right?! Does PharmDZ have the fastest 370z? Does he know his track times? Has he done 10.5" vs lighter 9.5" wheels to see if his times come down? What a retarded statement to think just because people out there have pulled the trigger on certain things that they must know more than me. I bet whats his face must be smarter than me too buying a $2000 titanium cai vs me making one for $100. Because I know that cai makes 100 more HP than me! He must be smart for doing it! Haha what a joke! There is no arguing this. Unless you run 295 square, going heavier bigger wheels is a waste, period. Then like you said there's a trade off. Whats faster? A 285 on 9.5" weighing XXX vs a 295 on a 10.5" that will 100% weigh more? 10mm is not enough to get you faster when you end up gaining more weight. Those guys I can bet will be faster stepping down a size and losing weight.

I agree. I'm not saying there isn't more than one way to skin a cat. But you boldly said one way was better and you gave a reason why and you're just incorrect.

Well I don't know your car and I don't know you're driving so I can't argue with you on what you need. If you need more than go for it. I do find it strange though tons of other cars with way more power than you though run smaller fronts so each their own.

Agree.

Nothing is ALWAYS better, I can't believe I have to explain THAT to you. Putting a 285 on the 9.5" rim works but it is not always optimal. If he was running an R-comp tire with very stiff sidewalls, then yes stuffing the widest tire that fits on the rim would be ideal. Putting that same 285 on a 10.5" rim with a street tire with a softer sidewall would yield drastically different results. So the answer is IT DEPENDS!

Just simply amazing. You do understand that people going faster or slower on a particular setup is due to more than just the tires. It's the total package, not just one single item. As for comparing it to a RC in a full race series? I highly doubt the OP is going that far. At that point, having to buy one more set of rims/tires is NOT a big deal. At that point, he'd have SEVERAL sets of rims/tires. Being square is not an automatic win or lose.

People go square for a variety of reasons. #1- Bring the car closer to neutral and #2- Add in longevity from being able to rotate the tires. It does NOT mean OMGWTF you have a square setup, you will now decimate all.

This ignores several things. Square is not necessarily the IDEAL setup for every track. Due to weight differences, and different tracks, the tires may heat up differently and adding width can help offset this. Different drivers and different courses also require slightly different setups. Some drivers prefer a bit of understeer, some want neutral, and some want slight oversteer.

So yes, reducing traction even by 10mm just to get square still reduced overall traction on the vehicle. If you wanted to change the balance to get more neutral, you can get there by adding more traction to the front instead of removing traction from the rear.

I didn't bring up PharmDZ as a he is right and 10.5 is the best. I brought that up as proof of your failure at READING COMPREHENSION... a point which you made for me AGAIN.

And as much as you argue that 10mm doesn't matter... do you think 1lb is going to be that huge of a difference? Your same argument can be used against you. Have you gone and tested every wheel/tire combination back to back and are you a good enough race car driver that you can without a doubt say that any change was due simply to the change in tires? I didn't think so.


And please, where did I ever say that one way was better? I simply asked why not go with this. You are the one RIGHT now saying that I am incorrect. I to this point am STILL saying IT DEPENDS on a bunch of factors that the OP has NOT answered yet.

Lol...so you don't know my car or what power I make? but you're sure that other cars with way more power run smaller fronts? That about sums up you and your argument.

"I don't X, but that won't stop me from arguing Y." If you READ, something that you clearly suck at. I mentioned Auto-X, which pretty much is get as much tire as you can. But I'd love for you to show up with your cheap plasti-dipped rims and $100 dollar exhaust and "go faster" than me on an AutoX.

Here's another tid-bit for you. Simply adding wider rims/tires may NOT make you faster if you do not upgrade the rest of the suspension and get an alignment to take advantage of the extra traction. As I've been trying to tell you over and OVER, there are a LOT more factors than simply saying a 9.5 is lighter than a 10.5 so it will ALWAYS be faster and staggered is bad.

Once again, great job on failing at reading comprehension. Maybe if you paid more attention at school you'd be able to afford to powder coat a whole set of rims or buy a real exhaust.

sorry, we're not all omniscient like you

To the OP:

Sorry to clutter up your thread arguing with this guy.

Here is a link to a guy that was selling a 370Z that was running those rims in 10.5" and it was good enough for him to win San Francisco Region Championships Super Touring Over class. Or so the link claims. At any rate, if you want to talk to someone who has actually RAN those rims at a track, that guy might be a good guy to shoot an e-mail to. Don't know if he is on the forum or not.

370z race car - SCCAForums.com - SCCA Racing Discussions - Sports Car Club of America - Racing Discussion Forums - Market Place - Vehicles for Sale! (and rental)

Edit: And there's this guy that's a National champion, so I'd say he's doing something right with his driving and setup.
http://www.the370z.com/370z-sale/813...pion-370z.html

Remember that's also with the 10mm spacer up front which is now off the car. I still have yet to try it without the spacer. I test fit it once and it seemed like it fit over the brakes without clearance issues but we will see.

It's 10.5" front/rear with +28 front (with the spacer) +15 rear I believe.

With spacers the NT03 will fit. I have a set in the same sizes you are interested in if you want a used pair.

I ended up not wanting to run spacers and sprang for forgestar F14s square setup