I appreciate the help. I think you are referring to the camber specs after installation of eibach springs...not just after adding rear spacers. Can the stock suspension be adjusted to look stock and have proper camber specs with spacers of about 20mm in rear?

Yes that is what I would like to know.:tiphat:

I have 25mm on the front and 20mm on the rear (on the stock 18's) that I bought from another member here - I think the fit is great.

More info click here.

So schrute,

Besides the spacers, you didn't need to do any other suspension changes? Sorry to beat this to death, but I just wanted to be sure. Also, which brand of spacers? Ichiba?

Thanks,

Tony

It seems that when some people on the forum put on rear spacers the top of the wheel looks sunk in and looks in need of a camber adjustment and others look nice and perpendicular to the road or flush with the car. Do the spacers that look nice have camber adjustment and others do not. Do you have to buy new camber arms to get the right adjustment? Thanks
John

If you stand behind your car, you'll notice that the rear fender panel angles downward toward the car's midline. It makes the tire look like the camber is off...it's an illusion.

Buy H&R's and you will be happy. No other work needed.

I have springs and spacers and was able to get a good alignment without camber arms. Spacers won't affect your camber.

Thanks for great help!!!

Thank you for the direct answer!:tiphat:

The contol arm for the stock 370Z are non adjustable, therefore any lowering springs that drop from oem height will place more negative camber on the wheels. There is a little bit that can be adjusted with a stock suspension, other than that you are faced with adding upper control arms and a rear camber kit to add positve camber back in after installing lowering springs.

The rule of thumb is any drop below 0.75 will require a camber kit to bring it back into mfg specs. The Eibachs drop the front 0.9 and rear 0.8. That is borderline out of mfg specs and its a personal choice, some like the more negative camber and some want to save their tires and go for a camber kit.

Myself I went with a rear camber kit and will hold off on the fronts until I see how the tires wear and go from there.

As far as needing a camber kit with just adding spaciners and NO lowering springs. I honestly do not know if spacers alone will effect the mfg camber. I was advised by a reputable shop that installed my spacers on my last 350Z to get an alignment done after spacer install, which lead me to believe something changes in the suspension setup when adding spacers and it may not change the camber BUT may change one of the other adjustments, toe or caster. I never got an alignment done and sold the car soon after and got the 370Z.

EDIT....From Mike's comment above, it looks like spacers do not effect the camber and he was able to get a good alignment with spacers and Eibach springs....thanks Mike!

Hope this helps.

Curtis

Correct, no other suspension changes. I believe the spaceers are Ichibas, hopefully M.J. will see this and confirm.

Thanks Mike, prior to your response as I was reading this thread I was trying to figure out how spacers would effect camber - seems to me that the plane the wheel occupies relative to the plane of the ground isn't changed by using spacers, just pushed out farther from the hub but at the same relative angle. If I'm missing something someone please let me know.

thats about it, kind of like using a different offset wheel.

Sorry for bumping an old thread, but I'm still a little confused. How exactly does one determine the right size spacer they'll need? After reading this thread (and a few others), it would appear that, to a certain degree, it's personal preference. However, I've noticed that a few guys have commented that their spacers wouldn't fit with their wheels. I'm looking at dropping my Z on Eibachs, and putting on 20" Axis Angles (20x9 front, 20x10 rear). Do I use 15, 20 or 25mm??? Also, and maybe I missed this, but does the offset of the wheel also help determine the width of the spacer? I need a drink...

Offsets on wheels will absolutely have an effect.. you need to know that before you consider a spacer to bring the wheel flush.

Honestly with a correctly built wheel, you shouldn't be running spacers..

I don't think I understand what you're saying. What makes a wheel "correctly built?" It seems like a lot of the guys are using the stock sport wheels with spacers. I would think that the Sport Rays are built correctly. I have a touring without the sport package, so that's why I wanted new wheels to begin with.

20mm H&R spacers F/R, lowered on H&R springs, and a good alignment got my rims to look flushed.

Plus the car handles better too!
Next mod: Anti sway bars.

Guys, i've just got my new set of wheels and i'm looking to get a set of spacers for the rear (10mm).

I have been trying to research and understand how it all works, from my understanding the H&R spacers are the ones to go for.

My question is the DRS model - where you need to replace your existing studs with the longer ones.. that sounds a bit tricky? Is it hard to remove the original studs? I was told it would require special equipment etc? is this true?

If not can't I just go the DRM model? The only problem is that the DRM minimum looks like 15mm.

Only other thing i could find was the KICS spacers 10mm which seem to be bolt on as well. I am a bit cautious as they are 2 pieces (the hubcentric part is seperate). Has anyone got any feedback for these ones, or can anyone tell me whether it is a difficult task to replace the original studs with the DRS model?

Appreciate any help.

Cheers :tup:

Stud replacement is really easy. The only "tricky" bit to the rears is that you have to temporarily separate the parking brake assembly (very simple... there's a DIY on it here too). Other than that it's simply a matter of pounding out the old studs and pulling in the new (impact gun recommended!).

I am not a big fan of bolt-on spacers anyways... I don't really trust them.

I didn't even need to separatetbe parking brake, with a little wiggling and rotating the rotor i was able to get the new studs in

Nice. I just looked at the assembly and realized how easy it was to remove the spring and adjusting pin to move the two halves of the brake shoes out of the way so I did it that way. :tup:

What size/offset wheels do you have?

Sorry.. I probably didn't explain well enough. "Correctly" is probably a bad word to use.

It's much better to use a wheel with the offset to achieve the look that's you're looking for instead of running a spacer to acheive that.

The factory sport wheels are what they are, and guys who want a flush look add spacers (obviously they're not going to create a whole new wheel).

If you're getting wheels, ideally you would get some with the offset to acheive the level of flushness you'd like, instead of adding spacers to them. But this may only be possible if the wheel exists, or you're having custom wheels made, and can choose your offsets.

:iagree: Here is a shot of wheels with the proper offset for the desired effect of "flushness". These are Volks GT30's. Have a look at the pictures on my profile page. I had these wheels made for me in 20 inch.

Here's my info on these... Front: 20" X 9.5" wide with +35 offset
Rear: 20" X 10.5" wide with +10 offset
My tire sizes where: Front 265/30/20 and Rear 305/25/20.

Thanks for the input in regards to replacing the studs. Nowi guess the only thing I need to find out is if H&R do 10mm drs for the 370? On the stillen site it matched a pair of 10mm drs but I'm not sure if this is right as I haven't seen anyone else stocking these for the Z? Can anyone shed some light on this? If there isn't any H&R 10mm drs, can anyone suggest amother brand?

Thanks

Most go with 15, 20 or 25.. but yes there are both 5 and 10mm spacers..

Ok, I get what you're saying. Since I'm not having custom wheels made, I guess I'll have to estimate the correct spacer size I'll need for the rims I plan on getting.

If the offset to achieve the look you want isn't available from that wheel, then yes. Exactly.

I ran H&R adapters/spacers on several VW's for years. Never had a single issue. Here is my 03 VW with Porsche wheels for reference.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/fb402b26.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d/fbdb1e8b.jpg

Bolt-on?

It's really a personal thing for me. I look at bolt-on spacers as adding five additional points of failure. On the track, I'd rather be running a DRS spacer instead of a bolt-on... so that's what I went with. But that's just me, and like I said, I have no evidence to support my belief... I just feel more comfortable with DRS. :)

Yes bolt on. They were 5X100 to 5X130 and 25mm thick.

Installed 20mm spacers on my PW. It does not rub going straight but when I'm turning and hit a good sized bump I hear a scrape. I really cant tell where it is coming from...If anyone has any experience and has answers to fix it, let me know. I may have to roll the fenders?

No problem here Mark, with H&R 20mm spacers on Fr with Sport rims. I know you are also running the sport rims. What brand spacers are you running? I have about 2k miles on my spacers and do not hear nor feel any scraping.

If you want to drop to 15mm, I have 2 sets to sell (H&R stud replacement). I also have 20 mm H&R stud replacement 2 sets.

I figured out what was rubbing. It wasn't the fender. It was the small plastic piece of fender liner that comes out near the bumper/fender line. Got an alignment and things look alot better. The car looks great. I can't wait to powdercoat my wheels.

Kewl, glad it all worked out. I lub my 20 mm fr and 25mm Rr (H&R) Pass the word to ur bay area buds about my spacers 4sale. In 4 ur pics once the stance and wheels r done.

im running H&R springs, H&R spacers 20mm rear and 15mm front with no rubbing issues. Rear is perfectly flush with fender and fronts tuck slightly. Exactly what i wanted

Found out the fender does rub with 20mm up front. I am dropped 1.4 in front and rear on KW V3. Got an alignment back to stock and it definitely rubs but only on banked turns while hitting some bumps like on on/off ramps. Going straight is no problem. I am still looking to go 1/4 to 3/8s lower. If you go 20mm spacer up front, drop your car about 1.5 inches, and drive agressively, you should definitely have your front fenders rolled.

Zforce, I think you are on Eiback Prokits? That may be why you aren't experiencing any rubbing issues?

Yup... I have the ProKit (0.9 drop)...as I do not think the Sportline (1.2 drop) was available last Aug when I purchased mine. I would have still stuck with the ProKit becuase there was no need to buy $$$ front control arms. Any lower and I would prolly not be able to kick out the wheels any more than 15mm in the front.

20mm in Fr and 25mm in the rear is a perfect match with Eibach ProKit and SPC rear camber kit. Also the Toe bolt will def have to be installed to get it back into an acceptable range or OEM spec. But NO upper control arm needed....yipee!!!

Roll the front fender? They are already rolled. ....Errr....correction, I just checked and they are NOT rolled from factory....bastards...the Z33 were rolled from factory...what up??

Is your car lowered? Do you rub with the 305 in the back? if not,how close is it to rubbing. Do you think it would rub with a +5 offset, all things being equal?

i have 20mm front as well and dropped on Stance coils, went down about 2.5in and have no rubbing issues. weird stuff :icon14: