Requirements when selecting road track wheels.
What do you look for in a wheel when tracking is in your future? I know that weight is important but I'm wondering if there is a point where to reduce weight you have to run a wheel made of X and that is a bad idea.
So besides weight what else should be considered? |
availability, maybe run 18's to lower tire cost and more size and compound variety. things like that.
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Strong enough to hit the occasional curb or two without folding into a taco.
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I'd want something forged, from a name brand. Nothing from any of the knockoff companies.
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No specific designs are bad... mostly the quality control at the Mfr.
However, go with a good brand otherwise -->
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Enkei, Rays/Volk, Weds, CCW, BBS, OZ
Forged 18" Also I'd recommend a light color so it's easier to see any cracks that form. Nothing powdercoated as cracks can form under the coating. I'd go to a track day or autocross and see what's popular. You will notice like half of the cars run the same wheels. Cough:RPF1:cough |
Rpf1 18" not sure on offsets and req'd spacers, but there are plenty of threads explaining the specifics. You won't be disappointed.
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The backspacing (offset) on the car from the factory is different front and rear. If you are trying to find 1 wheel that fits the front and back of the car you need an offset that will work in the front and back. If you tried to get 4 RPF1s that were the exact same in with all the same offset, the spokes of the wheel would hit the caliper in the front. This is due to the offset and spoke design. Because of the big brakes up front, you need a lower offset in RPF1. This is okay because you can mount low offset wheels in the back too, but the wheels will stick out well past the front fenders with a low offset.
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Check out weds 18 inch TC105n its 17-18 pounds and like 2100 for the set
Eneki RPF1 in 18x9.5+15 and 18x10.5+15 would be great too and lightweight. Neither one of these are forged but very strong and light. If you have cash then a Volk TE37 in 18x10+20 and 18x11+18 would work nicely. All of those offsets should be accompanied by your car being lower otherwise you would want a higher offset so it doesn't poke as much. |
Enkei nt03 18x10.5+30 square and run a 285/35/18 rs3 square. Add a 20mm spacer in rear and you are done. U can rotate tires front to back side to side etc even run tires backwards and get a lot of tire life out of them.
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No mention of Forgestar f14s here?
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If you run a good amount of negative camber in the front it will look good too. Without camber it will stick out about 10mm on the top. My +25 setup with stock camber of 0.5* is about 1/4" sticking out. I run 9.5 +45 with a 20mm spacer and 10.5 +15. Ill be using 285 square but obviously I can't rotate front and rear but popping tires off the wheel and swapping shouldn't be to much to complain about. A 9.5 +15 rear will be in 13mm from where I have it now. Now I'm about flush so you'd be fine to run that 9.5 back there. |
Just used my first set of track rims/tires this past sunday and loved it. Running Enkei PF01 18x10.5 +38 front +15 rear. I had a 10mm spacer on the front but I honestly dont think its necessary. Tires are Toyo R888 275/40-r18. Car was extremely neutral and felt incredibly easy to handle for my first time out there.
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not sure how current this is, but i found the sizes for some RPF1's.
http://www.enkei.com/size_chart/RPF1.pdf |
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