Mike, surprisingly the front is font! It's just the undertray and exhaust that's bottoming out. I will be making the undertray out of alumacorr next and probably go ahead and build a 3" front diffuser going back to the engine.
Before:
http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...34052736_n.jpg

after HAHAHA:
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...34372832_n.jpg

Thank you Mike, I actually spent all day playing on that site. Since I'm new to offsets and spacers, trying to learn it all in 1 day is pretty intense mixed with going to different websites looking at options. I even thought about posting pics of what I thought might work as my setup for benchmark.

http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps7d256e6b.png
http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps5da27e8a.png

I then went to see what others had on this forum which worked, but everybody seems to only care about 19" & 20" for looks and making it flush.

I want to thank you all for being so patient and helpful with me. I hate to ask so many questions and sound like an idiot but you guys really helped.

I totally believe you which is why I appreciate so much for helping me out. I spent all day creating this spreadsheet of wheels that doesn't work and it's frustrating. I think in the end, I'm okay with using spacers, I just wish to use better looking wheels. Right now, I think the NT03+M 18x10.5" with 285 Hankook R-S3 looks pretty promising. I don't even mind upping my budget to $2K for Welds or Works if I find anything, but right now my options look pretty slim.
http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps536a108e.png

prolly next month im getting NT03s also, just going to coordinate with martin as to what color he's going to eventually paint his so we have different looks :P LOL

"Function over form" right? dammit haha

LOL, no twin wheels?

Spacers are fine, I am currently running the bolt on in the rears. Once I buy ARP studs, I am converting the rear to a regular spacer!

at-3degrees camber, squeezing. 10.5 should be fairly simple to do. I don't have camber kits yet so I'm sitting at-1.7 from the drop. the TC105ns do come in a 9.5 +10 option which is something you could run a 285 on. at 17.6lbs per wheel, you can't go wrong. If you wanna try to squeeze the 10.5 +12 on there, they only weigh 18.4lbs each. ID love to do a square set up with the 10.5" eventually but I'll worry once the car gets more into race form and I have a track to do it with.

Even 10.5+15 will not clear for track use with a 275 or 285 tire for sure, I test fitted it and I am running -3.3 camber and couldnt tuck the wheel without later ripping off the fender when I bottom out.

There are tons of options for a 9.5" tire, but once you start getting super fast at the track, you are only going to wear out and chunk out the edge of the tire once you overheat them when you ride a 275 or 285 tire.

that's really good to know for the future! Thank you for sharing. That puts a slight change in my future plans then if I ever plan on competing at a higher level. I was hoping there was a way for me to squeeze a square 10.5" setup with the Weds I already have :(

I made the mistake of rushing and ordering 9.5 and 10.5 wheels against Clint's suggestion only to order new wheels in 6 months LOL!

He knows what he is talking about!

scruffy, don't apologize, its something you definitely want to take the time and get right. Have you considered going with something like my Forgestars, where you can get the offsets you specifically want? The price may have gone up, but mine were 1200 for the set directly from them.

Martin,
I was bottoming out in back too!
I forgot about that part. My exhaust flanges got ground down a bit. and my original undertray looked like yours when I replaced it.
http://imageshack.us/a/img341/4320/dsc01202ah.jpg

I haven't had any chunking with my 9.5s and 275, 285 and 295s. Although I only run slick tires on them, but they always wear out on the inner side due to camber.

What do you all think about a square setup with the new 295/35/18 BFG Rival on those +30 10.5 NT03 wheels? They don't make a 285 but they do make a 275. What about the 275/35/18 BFG Rival on the +27 9.5 NT03. I have -1.7F and -2.0R camber.

Hi Mike, thanks for sharing Forgestar with me - I like the CF10 but they're only available in 19's. I've looked into them, I didn't know there are wheels out there that allow you to get the custom offsets you want without paying the Volks premium - the weight savings are great too! I checked out their selection, the only 18" available is 18x10 and not 18x10.5. Hmm. I could either go all 18x10 or F: 18x10 & R: 18x11.

What do you think of 285 all around on F:18x10 & R:18x11? This might be a pretty good option and I won't need spacers.
Forgestar F14
18×10 offsets from +16 to +42
18×11 offsets from +23 to +55

http://www.forgestar.com/v2/images/f14brushed.jpg

I'm still researching for other available 18x10.5 in the front. I think I'll be okay in the end with using spacers if I could find the wheels I want.

I don't mind making custom width spacers if I have to at my buddy's machine shop.
Most 18x10.5 I found don't have high offsets. They're all with offsets of 27 or under which in this case spacers will only make it worst.

Clint, before jumping the gun on any wheels, what range in offset do you think will work for the front with a 18x10.5? Would you say around 28-30? What other options aside from Enkei PF01 or NT03+M have you found that worked with spacers?

285s will work fine on the 18x10s. I've got 275/40s on them right now. I'm +34 offset and use a 15mm rear spacer
http://imageshack.us/a/img692/7501/imageljzz.jpg

I'm putting 275/655s on my other wheels next week.

Thanks, I guess i could start looking into 18x10 square with 275/285s too. It does open up to more options.

18x10 sqaure works fine too, works well with 275, even though 285 is doable. I prefer a slight stretch(.5-1inch wider then the middle ideal rim width for a tire size) for best transitional response under load. so 275 with a 10 fits that in my book, 285 on a 10.5 as well

I don't have my suspension ride height set very low right now but do you guys think I should be concern with 285/35 bottoming out at the tracks with 18" and do 285/40?

I am still trying to learn car control and my KW V3 setup is still relatively soft like stock maybe only a bit stiffer.

im fine on V3 ride height and 285/35/18, martin is the guy who's slammed :P

yeah, when I was bottoming out, I was pretty slammed too. I'm not anymore though.

So I think i finally decided which wheels I'm going to get.

I'm going to go with

Front
Wheel: Enkei's PF01 18x10.5" ET 38
Spacer: 10mm (Overall offset = 28)

Rear
Wheel: Enkei's PF01 18x10.5" ET 38
Spacer: 20mm (Overall offset = 18)

Tires: Still deciding, but will most likely be Hankook RS3 285/35 or the new Dunlop

Will this work?

I'm not moving on to the next HW assignment, stud replacements & Lug Nuts.
Ideally, I would like to be able to mount both my Enkei PF01 18" and my Sports Rays 19" on the same APR extended studs.
-I intend to buy proper spacer 20mm front/25mm rear for the Rays and use my existing OEM stock lug nuts w/ lock for DD, will I run into any issue with the stud length being too long or short?
-If so, can I hack the APR stud length so I could make it work with both configuration? I intend to use a dedicated lug nuts for each set of wheels, I just want to see if there's a way to use the same APR extended studs and still keep my OEM lug nuts + lock nut for the rays without going open lug nuts.

Thanks!

I lined up both my stock nissan lug nut and my project kics and they seem to be the exact same angle, so I don't understand why a tuner lug like project kics can't be used with stock Rays... If the angle of the acorn is the same... can anyone chime in? Reason I ask, I want to get longer arp studs about 76mm total. But would DD on the 19's and track on the 18's.

I would get the proper length studs for the stock wheel spacers, and then use open ended lug nuts for the aftermarket wheels, since you will be using smaller spacers for the aftermarkets.

the stock lugnuts use the flat space to hold the wheel down, not the tapered part.

I run ARP 75mm studs and for the OEM wheels, have machined the ends off the OEM lug nuts - took 45 minutes in the lathe to do all 20 nuts, and then ran a tap thru to make sure the thread was cleaned up.

I have also decided to go 9.5 wide on 18's for my square setup with 265/35R18 tyres (lots of choices: Bridgestone RE55S, R888, Advan A050, DZ03G plus the Pirelli Corsa R-spec - one of my race buddies here in Melbourne is the Pirelli motorsport distributor supplying the Australian GT Championships with slick race tyres so I can get them at a reasonable price - for Aus).

My reasons: I reckon there is such a thing as too much tyre and 295 front/305 rear comes into that category on a car with near OEM levels of torque (definitely not true for FI engine though). My race car works just fine on 290mm slicks and it has 280Kwatw (soon to be 340). Too much tyre causes drag and friction which wastes the limited torque I have with the standard VQ37 engine. If/when I put the fat VQ37 engine into the Z34 that might change, but that is another story and a ways off at that.

The other benefit with 9.5 square and "little" tyres is that I can run standard suspension arm angles (mostly) as the rolling dia of the 265/35 is only 610mml down from ~670 for OEM tyres), so I lower the CoG and ride height by ~30mm without changing suspension angles so camber gain in bump is not as extreme as it might be on a lowered car. It does imply harder springs to keep the car off the ground though - but not a big step up (12kg/mm).

Wheels are Subaru spec (+37 offset) TC105N and I have 25mm spacer for the rear and 15mm spacer for the front so I finish up with +22 at front and +12 at rear. Spacers all machined hub-centric to suit OEM hub and wheel centre bore. If I can get a bit more negative at the front, I can go +12 front and +0 at the rear with a bit of attention to the inner guards - but that will be the absolute limit

Thanks for the reply but I'd like to, if possible to keep my stock lock key on the rays as it's gonna be my DD. I have a feeling someone's gonna jack my Rays. Therefore I'd prefer not to use open lug nuts for the DD set of wheels.

Is there a way I could use 75mm ARP studs and rather than hacking on the OEM lug nuts to make it open I can hack on the ARP studs and make it shorter to make it work for both my scenarios?

I rather get a different spacers if needed for the Stock Rays and a set of open lug nuts (instead of closed lug nuts) for the track wheels than to hack on my OEM lug nuts.

-The best situation is to be able to hack on the ARP stud and get closed lug nuts for both situations.

Please advise. Thanks!

My idea is:
Rays Wheels (Daily Driver)
Front: 19x9 ET 47 with 20mm Spacer (Overall Offset: 27)
Rear: 19x10 ET 30 with 25mm Spacer (Overall Offset: 5)

Enkei PPF01 (Track Wheels)
Front: 18x10.5 ET 38 with 10mm Spacer (Overall Offset: 28)
Rear: 18x10.5 ET 38 with 20mm Spacer (Overall Offset: 18)

ARP studs are hardened futher-muckers .... will take some cutting methinks !!!

Not reason why you couldn't do it, BUT measure three times before you cut.

The lug nuts must engage at least 13mm of thread to be "safe".

I still reckon you can "open" the OEM lug nuts - won;t make a lot of difference cosmetically and your "lock nuts" are still workable .... I'll take some photo's of my set up tomorrow night and post .... donlt like the idea of cutting ARP studs ... will wreck lots of hacksaw blades ...

What if I take it to a machine shop, u think a machine shop could easily cut it if needed?
I guess ultimately I want to figure out what length stud will these extend stud protrude pass the wheel? Is there some kind of calculator to figure this out without the wheels or the extended studs? All I know is the APR studs are 75mm long, what about the stock ones and how much do they protrude pass the wheel to make the 13mm minimum thread engagement?

BGTV8, thats the same idea I was planning on doing. I am currently running staggered TC105n's, 18x9.5 +35 and 18x10.5+12 with a 10mm spacer in front and a 5mm spacer in the rear. After tons of research, I was sad that the 18x10.5+12 was just not gonna work for me as a square setup with excessive camber, pulled/rolled fenders and stretched tires. I will probably eventually sell my rears and buy another set of fronts so I can do a square set up like yours and keep my 10mm spacer up front an possibly a 25 or 30mm spacer in the rear. I was looking at doing a 275/35 square setup with RE-11's as my car will still be my daily as well.

you need 62 and 67mm studs with the 20/25mm spacers. Just buy H&R Hubcentric spacers and use the studs that come with them, and then open ended lugnuts for your race wheels.

Thanks for the useful info, so stud lengths are NOT depended on width of the wheel nor the offset is that correct?

It only depends on the spacers used since the hub flange is the same, similar to the thickness of the wheel being sandwich between the lug nut is that correct?

http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/o...ps924e57b0.png

Spacers (Front / Rear):
Sports Rays: 20mm / 25mm
Track Wheels: 10mm / 20mm

Here's the tricky part, if I were to use the Studs that come with the H&R Spacer kit, in there it doesn't state the length

Anyone know if the 10mm H&R Spacer Kit which I'll use for the front to track be 62 mm in length?
(Website only states DRS Use for 10-40mm widening)
Similarly, anyone know if the 20mm H&R Spacer Kit which I'll use for the rear provided in the kit be 67mm?
(Website only states DRS Use for 10-40mm widening)

I never measured the studs, but if you buy the H&R spacers for the 370z, the stud lengths will be what you need.

Don't buy spacers yet, I just ordered but I might not need em!

Alright cool thanks! let me know when you get em, I have a track day coming up April 8 at Sears Pt Infineon and would like to have my new setup by then.

anyone know what the proper offset for front and rear i should have if I do decide to run with 18x10 square?

I would probably do +30(f) and +10(r) so it leaves you a little room for dips and hard corners and wider tires. If you want flush then +25(f) and +5(r) would probably get your wheels flush but could leave a possibility of tires rubbing fender depending on tire sizes.

Thanks! I might end up 285 or 275...i'm still debating...Forgestar could get the me proper offset if I go with them, but it'll be a 18x10" instead of 18x10.5" and i won't be able to rotate.

Why wouldn't you be able to rotate? do 18x10+30 square set up and then run a 20mm spacer in the rear to flush it up equally. Then you can still rotate and what not. That's what my future plans are. I might have to sell my WEDs as the offsets offered just won't work for a square setup......:shakes head:

Oh I meant if I wanted to go without spacers, that's the only reason I would go down in width for the rim size aside from more brand/style selections; at 18x10 Forgestar I could get the proper offset I need without the risk of using spacers at the cost of no rotation.

What is your current setup for the Weds?

Honestly, as long as the spacers are installed correctly and torqued down properly, I don't see an issue.

My current set up is 18X9.5 + 25 up front and 18x10.5 +7 in the rear. Not sure how I feel about running a square setup on 18X9.5's. For these specific wheels they come in a +35 offset which means I'd need a 25mm or 30mm spacer to flush up the rears. I'm already running a 10 on front and a 5 on the rear.