Disassembling a 2 / 3 pc wheel...
 

I recently purchased a set of Forged Specialty wheels. The previous owner had the Faces painted 40th anniversary (Dark Grey/Gunmetal) Id like to have them painted a bright silver more closer to the stock Rays. How do i go about disassembling the face? What are the tq specs when putting it back together? Is there anything i need to know?
thanks

you should check with FS for torque specs. Its not much though, not more than 30 or 40. I did my OZ Racing wheels on my corvette, and just snugged the bolts firm, contact plus another half turn or so. I started off tightening more than that and snapped a bolt, which meant ordering new ones from Germany, so don't go too tight.

The two halves of the barrel are probably glued together with sealant. Were I doing it, I would dismount the tires, and just unbolt the face, but don't try to separate the halves.

Is the face sealed as well? Would you be able to leave the tires mounted and just unbolt the face?

The face isn't sealed, but I'd unmount the tires either way. I'm sure the face provides some strength, and with the tire mounted up and full of air you may have a hard time getting the face on and off. Never tried it that way, since the wheels I've assembled had the tires off already. I've only done 1 set though, so I'm not an expert by any means.

Gotta do the whole deal, tires off and the disassemble process will be fairly easy. Like above just contact the company for specs :). Nice wheel goodluck

i thought multi-piece wheels use some sort of gasket between the pieces.

It is usually just a silicon sealant.

It's relatively easy.

If it's your first time I would suggest dismounting the tires. Once dismounted use a blade to remove the silicon in between the 2 barrels (if 3 piece). After just remove the bolts and with a rubber mallet bang the center out in a star motion (same way you mount a wheel). That should help with dis assembly; as for assembly I would suggest taking it to someone who knows how to since the wheels need to be placed on a runout machine so that they're easier to balance. If you choose to do it your self the TQ specs are 18 for the bilnd bolts and 28 for the through bolts.

One thing I did forget; when putting it back together make sure to clean the old silicone residue with either a blade and sand paper and wipe it down with either acetone, or pre cleaner (body shop supply store). Also if you decide to do it yourself make sure to assemble in a star motion to get as close as possible to a perfectly aligned wheel.

Hope that helps

Gio

Gio making it look easy...

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:tup: You know how many wheels we build LOL

BTW your new setup should be ready soon;)

Awhhhhh yeaaa.....

:cool:

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so it's easy like caulking your bathtub. :icon17:

i'd let a pro do it, op... :icon14:

If you're mechanically inclined it should be easy as lefty losey righty tighty :tup:

so you're saying im not mechanically inclined? :mad: :icon17: :p

LMAO :rofl2:

OP. If you give me about a week or so i will start a thread with images and maybe some video :D on a how to on this.

So since its a 3 pc i have to separate the barrels and the face? Not just remove the face? ALso, I am mechanically inlcined so this seems very easy...also, how about sending some silicone my way ;)

He is the expert, but if you are just doing the faces, I don't see why you can't. On mine I didn't separate the halves, even though I did powdercoat the barrels. The glue held up even through the cure cycles in the oven.


before:
http://www.stsmotorsport.co.uk/image...eggera_iii.jpg

after:
http://thepowdercoater.com/gallery/a...wheel_copy.jpg

I suggest separating them so that new sealant can be applied and there's no chance for leaks. It will be a lot easier having the tire dismounted to just clean and add new silicon versus risking not doing it and mounting the tire and having to dismount because of a leak. As for the silicon; we use a special sealant that is specifically for wheels. What I would suggest using is a silicon that is water, and weather proof so avoid any leaks. What they use on fish tanks would be perfect.

The silicone OZ and we use is the same so it will hold under heat but it's not recommended. A $9 tube of silicon and an extra 10-15 mins cleaning and adding the silicon is not worth the headaches of waking up to a flat and having to due the whole process all over again.

Gio

Actually, I would have done that, but I just couldn't get the two halves apart. Tire Rack told me its was extremely difficult for them to do also when they rebuild them and suggested I just leave them. Not saying its ideal at all, and I wouldn't do it for a paying customer (they have to disassemble and reassemble if they want them coated), but they have held up fine for 3 years now.

:eek: Consider yourself lucky ;)

Thanks for the advice...ill post up some pics when i get to the wheels (ive got 3 months to do them) Also, is there an actual wheel sealant? Or should i just go with the fish tank stuff?

No problem; if you have that much time before you go ahead and get working on them you might want to wait till we post the thread and how to. As for the silicon; there really isn't anything in specific to use. The fish tank sealant would be best when compared to the home depot stuff