Hey guys quick question
 

20x11 +28 for rear.what size spacer?im running a 275/30/20.thanks fellas

15mm spacer will make you flush with the fender and plenty of tire clearance. If you are going for "stance" look though (as you are running a stretched tire), a 20mm will work and the rim itself will poke just past the fender while your tire tucks under.

This should be stickied.
 

Hey guys, had some time to kill at work, so I made this that should help answer general questions.

Green cells indicate stock wheel poke.
Blue cells indicate flush at stock height.
Yellow cells indicate wheel poke for lowered Z's. Flush at -2 camber rear and -1 camber front is at the highest yellow cell for each given wheel width.
Red cells indicate wheel poke PAST the fender ON A LOWERED Z, I would not recommend any of these sizes. (unless you're going for stance and such, but this post isn't made for you).

How to figure out what size spacer you need to be flush? If you are lowered, look for yellow cells, stock height look for blue cells.

Lets use the stock wheel sizes and suspension. 10 wide et30 for the rear. Find in the chart and you see 97mm of wheel poke. Look for the highest yellow cell in the 10 width. You see is at et5 This means you can fit a 25mm spacer on the stock wheel to reach flush. Do the same for the front, 9 wide et47. To reach flush (et 25) you can use 22mm of spacers.

Find the image here as well in better quality: http://i.imgur.com/PUJiYSu.png

Would there be any issues with adding 20mm spacers in the rear and leaving the front stock? I have the stock 19 inch wheels...

Yes the back would almost be flush and the front will be battle shipped as hell. Looks wise it will look half as bad as stock lol.

These are V3 bolt-on 20mm front and rear, the car felt a little sluggish after I had them installed. However, the car did handle better and felt better, but again, they are heavy.

I know some disagree and claim they can't tell the difference, I can, especially coming out of turns. The experts claim that 1 lb added to your wheel is equivalent to adding about 20lbs to the car's total weight, the total of 8.5 lbs would be around 170lbs added to the car's total weight, sort of like riding with a passenger, which everyone would probably agree that makes a big difference.

http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/...psb2f58023.jpg

Adding any sort of unsprung weight, or adding more rotational mass is bad for handling and control.

I guess some OZ super lightweight rims in 18 inch would be good for the unsprung weight of the Z.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk

Yeah the lighter the better SSR type fs are good Enkei rpf1s ect...

Geez
 

I'm beginning to think bolt ons might be the way to go.
...and I'm thinking I ought to wait until I've done my drop and it's settled out before deciding on what size spacers. Bolt ons would be a snap to do.

104

Guys apparently im retarded and can't figure out which option i need. I want 15mm all around but i need to have the same travel length for the bolts. Can someone put a picture or tell me which option i need based on that chart from page 1? Thanks

More info!
 

Lots of good info and opinions here. So.. my 2 cents.... H&R bolt on (not the loose stud one) worked great on my 2012 (red also) with 18" stock, 20mm front/25mm rear. When I got ready to trade I removed them, and used them on my new 2014 w/19" Rays, Sports Pkg, with no issues at all.
Go to H&R website and enter your car information. Be sure to read the notes (click on) to be sure of fit or call their 1-800 #. The 20/25s look great and fit perfectly. Sorry I don't have the part #s anymore.
I didn't know anything about all this either at first, but it's not hard.
Cheers,
Chuck

So I finally took the plunge on this yesterday. Here's my story.

Since everyone on here seems to have differing opinions it was hard to know what size to get. I decided that using 10 or 15's was not something I wanted to tackle or pay for (since you have to remove the brakes and the hub and swap out studs) . So it was either 20 or 25. Since you can't return them after putting them on, and they cost $150, I decided to eat a little freight and only order 2. I had both of them put on the same side of the car so I could see what 20 looked like up front and in back.

Here's what I've determined based on what I have on my car, with stock tires and sport wheels, stock camber alignment. All observations are from looking straight down from the top of the outside fender.

FRONT
15 would be about 1/4" inset
20 is flush
25 would poke about 1/4"

BACK
15 would be flush
20 pokes about 1/4"
25 would poke about 1/2"

I am not a fan of poke. Poke to me reminds me of 2 things, 4 x 4 trucks (which look good with poke), and ricers with Honda Civics with ridiculously offset wheels (which looks stupid). I prefer flush. Knowing this, I LOVE the 20's on the front. They are perfectly flush. BUT, 20's on the back are slightly too much. I would prefer 15's better. Anyone liking the 25's on back likes poke. So if you want flush, 20 front and 15 back is the way to go.

So I had a big decision to make; do I buy 2 more 15's for the back and go through the hassle and cost, or do I just stick with 20's even though they poke slightly. I decided to just stay with 20's. I'm 95% happy with that look. It's not perfect for me, but I just don't want to screw with the other kind, or pay for it.

Pictures up next. (Just uploaded the pics. For some reason they are now darker and not as clear as they are as originals. Sorry)

at stock height 20 on front pokes a little bit especially when you look at the car from the side/rear.

i hated that look and decided to get the nismo wheels for the perfect fit for base. :icon17:

if i was to run spacers on stock sport 19's with stock tires at stock height on base, i would do 15 front and 10 rear both stud replacement types.