My advice is to take a 19mm socket, with 12 points (and hammer it on), it worked perfect, took it off with air tools easily. The one I used was slightly cracked, so it easily hammered on, I just wish I had thought about it earlier before I tried to drill the edges of the lugnut to get a grip (didn't work) and then tried to drill out the stud (and gave up because it was taking too long). Sears makes a tool called Lugout, that I bought, but it couldn't get enough grip on what was left on mine (but might work for you). I am debating on taking the wheel to a dealer and complaining. My issue is the dealer I bought the car from is out of business - Nissan blew this one.

Nissan knew, they have the correct parts available. It was the dealers that screwed up and installed the wrong part.

^^ I don't know if I agree with this. I bought my car right away in Jan 2009 - If Nissan knew, they didn't prep the dealers right, so in my mind, they blew it.

That part is true. The part was available but the dealers didn't know about it. They didn't issue an advisory until some months later after numerous complaints.

At this point your best bet is probably to call Nissan Consumer Affairs and tell them what happened and that your dealer is out of business and they should set you up for a free repair somewhere else.

Hook up with Z club of San Diego ZCSD.org largest club in So Cal

Ever hear of a PM?

right now im in the same situation.if there is a tsb out does that mean i can just bring this in to the dealer and they would honor my warranty and not charge me for labor and parts without any hassle because i feel like the car is pulling to the side or prolly just me not comfortable knowing im driving with a broken wheel lock?

I just got a 2011 and this problem is still around. I added H&R spacers to the rear and went to put the wheel back on and fudged both wheel locks. One is spinning freely and the other snapped. Then to search around on the forum to find out it's the incorrect wheel locks. What is going on Nissan?

It's not Nissan's problem. You've got aftermarket spacers and (probably) not OEM studs. IMHO, the biggest problem with stud issues is over-torquing.

Well... don't worry, it's an easy fix.

I searched around on the forum and found out that the wrong wheel locks were used. They used the wheel lock with no washer while all my other lugs had the washer.

Check out the first post and the tsb and you'll know what I'm talking about.

It is the dealer doing it not Nissan corporate, but still very sad that this is still happening. It is also sad that all the other cars your dealer sold are probably driving around with the same issue.

So my wheel lock exploded while I was swapping back to my summer rims. I'm calling the dealer today. Thanks for posting the TSB and all the information guys. I was going to go and waste my own money on this until I found out what you guys went through! I have the wrong wheel locks!

This^

And you'd be surprised how little torque ~85 ft-lbs is when you do it with a torque wrench properly in small increments around the star. I cringe at places that use air tools to tighten wheel lug nuts, which is just about every mechanic shop in existence.

yah, i sometimes use my impact for loosening lugs on the fly, but never to tighten them.

i use my 18v driver for that with low torque setting...and do the rest by hand.

The last shop probably tightened my Z's lugs to 120-130 ft/lbs, at LEAST. My electric Dewalt 18v impact had issues getting them loose. My truck on the other hand requires 150 ft/lbs I believe, and my impact was able to take them off pretty easily.

Oh yeah, what cheesed me the most about that, was the fact that on the receipt, it insisted they tightened down to 95 ft/lbs on all corners...