Alternative Rear Jack Point?
 

So I was trying to figure out how I could use my jack on the rear differential which is the indicated rear jacking point, but I don't see how it could possibly fit. Just not enough room between the exhaust pipes/cans.

This is the jack I bought:
http://www.harborfreightusa.com/usa/...o?itemid=67022

So what are my options?

Use the jack points recommended in the manual. They're on either side along the crease or metal lip just inside the running boards (3" or so). The rear points are indicated by the pair of grooves on the metal crease towards the back. You'll see what I mean when you look. The only jack that can reach the rear diff is a full size, low profile service jack.

Is what I bought not considered "full size"? It would reach fine, its just too big and wouldn't fit between the exhaust.

I know about the side jack points, but how exactly would I jack it up using only those?

.....F
D1...P1
D2...P2
.....R

So with that layout, but without using the rear point, what would the order be? I can see using the Front point to jack the car up and then place jack stands for D1 and P1, but then how would I be able to put stands under the remaining two spots?

With the FI exhaust you are going to need to get some 2x8s or 2x10s to drive the rear wheels up on so your jack can clear the pipes.

I cut 45* angles on the ends of two ~36" lengths of 2x10s and drove the rear wheels up on those. This allowed the jack to reach the diff (with a hockey puck as a pad) without the arm contacting the pipes.

Kind of a PITA but it works.

I have the model up from that jack, the 3ton racing jack, so im not sure if this is any help.

Anyways i have a 4x4 x6 inch piece of wood i throw on top of the jack that works well. The width of 4inches is slim enough to make it between my ARK exhaust pipes and deep enough that it keeps the jack from touching either when lifting the car.

That said using the side jack points is better...BUT i personally dont like the idea of jacking up one side, putting a jack stand there, then jacking up the other side and in the process the car has to basically pivot on the one jack stand.


EDIT: What Mustang is talking about is a great idea and cheaper than buying something premade. Plus its nice since it gets the car higher on its own which makes it easier to clear and blah blah you get the picture.

Hope this all helps!!

I'll have the check the distance between the pipes, but it seems like it might be less than 4 inches, or maybe it's pretty close to that.

Thanks for the suggestions. I thought about the wood idea, but wasn't sure exactly how to do it. Is there a certain type of wood that I should use if I use it to sandwhich between the floor jack and the diff? I don't think a hockey puck would be thick enough to help the jack clear the pipes.

I'm not going to need it until Monday (installing Oil Cooler and SS Brake lines), so I'll take a closer look on the weekend.

I have always been curious about this. Is using the side jack points a bad idea when putting the car on jack stands? I now have my FI exhaust installed and it would be so much easier using the side points. I just don't want to damage anything.

I don't like the side jacking points either. If you need any one end of the car up in the air I think it's safer to lift it all at once.

@Flash... just find some 2x10s in the lumber dept of Lowe's or Home Depot.

I cut 36" lengths of 2x10, then cut the ends on 45 degree angles. I added some rubberized anti-slip padding on the bottom and would use them to drive the front or rear wheels up on so I could fit my jack underneath the car.

Hmm will Lowes do cuts like that for me? I don't have a way to do 45 degree cuts.


I can't really see how you could use the side points since you only have 2 on each side, how could you place both jack stands on one side if you have the floor jack using one of the points?

I'm not sure if they will make the cuts for you or not. You could always just go to autozone and buy ramps and do it that way.

Okay, I could maybe do it with a hacksaw, but the cut wouldn't be perfect. I guess even if it isn't it should be fine, I'll just sand it good.

Now I just need to see what will fit in between the pipes and the floor jack. Hopefully a 4x4 will work.

I actually made some ramps being that I did not want to chance it with the side points. They work pretty well but I like Mustang's idea of getting some kind of sticky rubber to put on the bottom. I did have the fronts slip on me once. You can check them out in my journal.

http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...journal-2.html

By the way. Home depot's machine was not setup to cut angles (so they said). I had to cut them myself with a circular saw.

Those are great looking Will!

If I was to buy a circular saw to do it, is there a certain kind I should get to cut angles?

Or would something like this be fine: Shop Skil 7 1/4" Circular Saw at Lowes.com ?

Anything else I would need?

Not that saw. You'd want a table saw.

Ah, well I can't afford or have room for that. So should I just try my best with a hacksaw if they can't do it for me?