Are Savini wheels decent quality? And how to choose offsets?
 

So I've been looking at wheels for a couple of years, and regardless, I keep coming back to these:

Savini BM12

http://saviniwheels.com/wp-content/u...hed-silver.jpg


Or Savini BM15

http://saviniwheels.com/wp-content/u...d-silver-1.jpg

I don't want to cheap out, but really in this range is kind of the top of my budget. It's not that I COULDN'T spend more, but I just don't see the point... I'm not tracking, and this is a daily driver style car. Actually about 1/3 of a DD, but you get the point. It's 2009, I need to do some body work, body kit and paint, too. So, lots of things to do over the next year or two, but I'm not going to get into all-out performance or run it on the track.

2009, 90k miles, dropped slightly with Swift Spec-R springs and Whiteline adjustable front/rear sway bars. 7AT, Akebono brakes and stock Rays wheels which need to be replaced.

I'm thinking 20" all around, either squared or like an 8.5/10.5" split?

So, any advice?

178 views and no one can tell me anything? Come on, guys. The shops around here only want to sell you what they sell, and they bad mouth anything else - the one guy I talked to a couple years ago before I got new wheels on my truck told me Savini were "generic" cheap Chinese crap. Of course, the only thing he wanted to sell me we Moto Metal and things along those lines. I want to be different, and as much as I look around, these two styles are what I envision for my car.

I'm open to other alternatives in the same range and style.

Because nobody has heard of them.

Interesting. I've found some stuff, a couple disgruntled reports of people who didn't feel they got what they wanted, some saying they are supposed to be pretty high-end. I don't know.

Like I said, I'm willing to entertain other ideas.

What is your budget?

I'd like to stay under $2k. $2.5k top end. I could afford more, but it's just not worth it to me with other things to think about coming up. I'm buying in to a business this week, as well, so that's another 6-figure outlay. So, I'm trying to be reasonable, but not "cheap". I put some Helos on my truck that were very reasonable, and I'm quite happy with, as well.

You cheap bastard. :rofl2: I spent that much on one wheel. :eek:

I've never heard of Savini wheels before. I tried to find out where they are made at, but came up empty. If they are made in China, I would shy away from them at those prices. The reviews on them is kind of mixed.

Well, I put in a PM to a couple of our vendors here, one who sells Savini, maybe I'll get some information from them.

There are several threads chock full of wheel sizing info. I suggest you read through them and learn about what fits on our cars

If one of the vendors was Get Your Wheels, I sent our contact from them an email over a week ago and never got a reply.

That's the one that is the Savini dealer. :rolleyes:

Maybe I should contact them through their website.

I actually emailed Josh and he didn't respond. You could try their website sales email.

Or PM them through here.


You can count on Getyourwheels to give you an honest opinio, best price and help you with your offsets.

That's what I did, I sent a PM through here. I'll give him a day or two to get back to me before bombarding him through another means. Looking at his website, he has a ton of stuff available, including the Savini, and his prices look good. I REALLY like that I can get a quote on his website on pretty much anything he offers. So many places all say, "Email for a quote" or make you request a quote. I don't like that.

Best service you will ever get.

Just spent a good amount of time talking with a rep named Jason on GetYourWheels.com and he was extremely helpful. We spent a long time talking about the Savinis, and he leaned toward the SF-V4 as they are flow forged and their lighter and stronger option. I still wasn't sold on them aesthetically, so I asked his opinion of some other options and he pointed me to the Forgestar CF5-V. These have multiple color options (including a silver option unlike the SV-F4) and in addition are cheaper. They're also flow forged, as well.

I'm also a bit more comforted by the Forgestar reputation, at least as far as I know, they are very well thought-of in the wheel community. So I think I'm leaning this way, as of now. Just have to decide about 19s or 20s, probably going to do 9.5"/11" F/R. Unless anyone can convince me doing a 10"/12" split in 19s would be best? I like the Super Deep Concave, which is only available in 19s...

Argh!

Most people run a one inch stagger f/r

It comes down to the offset and what tire size you want. Many factors go into wheel sizing which is why I recommended looking through the wheel fitment threads do you can decide for yourself

I DID look through, read exhaustively, but there is very little there that actually helped me. Numbers start running together. Maybe I'm just too stupid to understand. That's probably it.

And what is the benefit of a 1" stagger vs a 1.5"?

Tire sizing

It sounds like you aren't doing anything interesting with the car or modifying it to a high level

So

Just get 19x9.5 around +25 and 19x11 +15 and be done with it. It'll look fine, fit easy, and you don't need to use your brain because it's been done before and works

Forgestar's super deep concave doesn't clear akebonos except at super aggressive sizes, if at all. Not happening at your level

Run 265/35 front and 305/30 rear

Simple and works

Which u also could have found from reading those threads, but whatever

I'm still reading and still learning, all 19 pages of the one thread and working on the several HUNDRED page "Will it fit" thread.

Thanks for the information, though. I'm trying, I really am. I just have a demanding job and a family and only have a couple of hours here and there to read and research.

This is good general guide that helped me when I first started researching offsets for the z
It outlines the range of offsets and width that fit at stock height and camber. It is just a general guide as height and camber will also influence fitment. Generally speaking you can go more aggressive if you are lowered and or have more negative camber.

https://i.imgur.com/PUJiYSu.png

Option Zero made a great suggestion. If you don't have that much time to invest in researching what fits, just go with his suggestion. Whatever wheel you buy make sure that you find out if the wheels will clear the brake calipers.

Thanks @Brendan for that chart, it's very informative to see things in a graphic format to at least give me some idea of the relationships.

My question is this: what do those numbers in the chart represent? Is that a measurement of distance from some point or what? I get the offest and width (the X- and Y-axis), but while I see the relationship to the numbers in the chart, I just don't know what those numbers represent. - EDIT - OK, I think I get the "poke past hub" thing now. Never mind... this would be a measurement from the hub to the edge of the wheel, so you can approximate it to the fender?

Some of it confuses me slightly, as for instance, the recommendation from OZ was a 19 9.5 +25 and 19 11 +15 and Jason with GetYourWheels was for a 9.5 +20 and an 11 +15 (I believe). Both of these recommendations are in the "red" zone on the above chart, so I'm trying to figure out how that relates. I have time, I'm not under the gun in having to buy wheels, and I would like to understand the relationships between all the variables as well as I reasonably can.

In addition, I don't know what wheel diameter those charts represent, as I assume (I know, I know) that wheel diameter would affect these things, too. I have been wanting to go with 20" wheels, although I am open to 19", too. I just am not sure how much that affects things and in which way - in the "Will it fit?" thread, the vast majority I've seen are 19s, very few 20s seem to be run on the Z. Not zero, but a very small number it seems - again, I am still looking, reading and researching, just asking questions as I go, too. Also, most of the 20s I have seen so far seem to be on cars that are very lowered or bagged, lots of camber, etc., i.e., a particular "style" of Z, if you will, which is not one I am pursuing. I think 20s would look great, but I don't want the super slammed and "buried" wheels look, personally, if you get my meaning. My driveway is on a bit of a slope, and I have several areas on my drive to work that are already problematic with my slightly lowered ride.

I'd appreciate any helpful info you can give me.

Wheel diameter has no effect on the offset.


Only width and offset of the rim needs to be considered for fitment.

And the width and height of the tire of course (this is where the rim diameter comes into play).

Ok, so then this chart would be reasonably applicable to 20s as well as 18s? I guess that makes sense enough.

Yes sir.

This really, really REALLY isn't that hard.

The lower the offset, the more the wheels stick out toward or past the fender. The higher the offset, the further recessed they are in.

For example: a 20x10 wheel with a +15 offset sticks out further than one with +30 offset

Width has a similar effect because . . . well, the wheel is fuckin' wider. Same offset, wider wheel, the outside edge goes further away from the hub and toward or past the fender

The offset and widths i suggest work because . . . plenty of people have ACTUALLY USED THEM BEFORE AND THEY WORK:

Two examples of 19x9.5 +22 and 19x10.5 +12 (close enough to 11, +15) at different heights

Unless the chassis is brand spanking new, OR you are running super aggressive sizing with super low stance and some sort of fender modes (roll/pull/wide fender), there is no need to break out a tape measure and get under your car and measure ****.

Just look at what other people have done and copy the one you like best. It ain't rocket science, and every single year and every single trim of Z has the same fender (except the newer Nismos which have the stupid fender flare that needs to be removed first)

And from others examples you can use as a baseline to find what you want

Your car sees no track time
Your car doesn't have coilovers and adjustable arms, and it doesn't seem like you care to add those parts
Your fenders are not rolled or pulled
You have the most conservative setup imaginable

Get the simplest fitment

If you REALLY tripping about the sizes i suggested being in the "red zone", just add 5 mm to each. You car won't look good either way at your height, so what the heck! Go even safer!

and for $2k you can probably get close to a used set of TE37's with better looks, less weight, and more strength than that Savini luxury wheel POS

I'll just say 'thank you' for the advice you have offered, and I'll continue to read and learn as I go.

I think I've decided to skip the Savinis and go with the Forgestar CF5-V. I'm also going to get coilovers, so I can go a little lower. I'm still not going to go crazy, but it will give me a slightly better look and I can go more aggressive on the offsets.

So I guess the only thing I need to decide is if I want the 19s with an SDC rear, or just go with the 20s and the Deep Concave x4. The 20s will look better with a lower drop, I think, so the SDC or DC rear is the big decision. I'm really not sure anyone can help me make that decision, it's just a matter of priorities for the look I want.

Just wanted to say thank you again to everyone who has helped me out, I have learned quite a bit and am looking forward to the experience and getting my car lined out a bit more - with more planned in the future.

I went with the 19s, Hankook V12s, in matte gunmetal. I wanted the SDC more than I wanted the 20s, I guess.

Jason from GetYourWheels was great, answered all my questions. Big upvote for them. Wait time supposed to be like 5-7 weeks as of now - UGH! I don't want to wait that long! lol

Jason is the man.

Five month wait for special order color te37 ultras

Be happy u got seven weeks

It took 6 Months for my SSR's MS3's to come in.

16 weeks for my Work Emotion TR2P's in Asterism but worth the wait as it they have taken my car to show level.

Think it was 2 months for my Forgeline's.

This is what I should have bought and been done with it. No TPMS mounting holes on the SSR wheels sucks. No good solution to have the sensors installed. Mounting them with Bands is just crap. They are always breaking.

The oem TPMS bolted right in with no issues on the ForgeLines. :tup:

Mine will be delivered TPMS installed, wheels and tires balanced and assembled and ready to mount. I assume some kind of learning procedure for the TPMS to the factory computer. Still trying to decide if I'm going to install them and the coilovers with a friend's help on his lift, or if I'm going to take it all to a shop so they can do the alignment at the same time.

TPMS needs to be flashed to work. Any semi-decent wheel/tire shop should be able to do it for you (Firestone, Discount Tire, etc.) or you can have Nissan do it as well but will probably cost more $$.

Just over 2 weeks and I have a shipping email! They shipped out last night! Wow, a lot faster than I expected. Jason told me 5-7 weeks lead time, it was under 3. Supposed to be delivered next Wednesday, 9/18. Perfect present on my wife's birthday! lol