Hubcentric rings
 

So I got volk TE37 SL's in 19" and before I didn't have any vibration or wobble before with the stock wheels. But now I do under decel between 35 and 20mph. Just got them all balanced, and they said the fronts are fine (feels like it's coming from the front) but the backs were counter balanced at had too much weight. Well, the wobble feeling/sound is still there so I'm guessing I need hub centric rings... but I don't know what size I hear the inner for 370z's are 66.1? Is that correct? But idk what outer size I need...

What are your off sets?

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+22 front and +12 rear

ID of rings should be 66.1mm, OD depends on the wheel specs.
You may have to measure them w/calipers; as the hubcentric is the truest centering of wheels.

If it's only under decel then it has nothing to due with the wheels. Wheel imbalance is felt under all conditions above certain speeds.

Additionally, TE37's are lugcentric (the tapered lug seats set wheel position). Using hubcentric rings with them will just help installation.

Your off sets seem fine, how old are your tires and what they?

What could be only on decel then? It really only happens with moderate to heavy braking 35-20mph ish... and it's not the brakes because it doesn't do it with the stock wheels... if I'm slower on the decel it's not as noticable.

Braking could be a slightly warped rotor; many factors....try knocking out of gear & coasting between those speeds....but if while braking; I'd be suspicious of a warped rotor.

Throwing the braking factor in completely changes the color of the horse.

So I normally brake in neutral up to a stop light, that's where I notice it most. I know it's not rotors because those haven't changed since I changed wheels. BUT today I was testing driving around at 34 mph not braking or accelerating and it's there. I believe my GT Haus exhaust covers it up which is why I notice mostly on decel when braking, often in neutral. But it's definitely there maintaining 34mph. I'm really hoping it's not a bent rim as I bought these volks used. But discount said they balanced perfectly fine.

Perhaps try removing and re-installing the wheels, making sure to tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to the correct torque. IIRC correctly the correct torque is 80 ft/lbs. The installer may have over-torqued the wheels. While the wheels are off, do a quick visual inspection of the brake pads and calipers to ensure there are no obvious signs of sticking or jamming and that the top and bottom lugs of the pads are adequately lubricated. If you elect to go with hub rings, the OD should be available from Volk. Check their website or just goggle "bore size of" whatever Volk wheels you have. As stated above, the hub rings are not absolutely necessary, but they do help center the wheel during installation.

I'm not sure how the exhaust would "cover up" a wobble or vibration. Is it a noise that you're hearing from the wheels that's concerning you ... or a wobble that you feel through your foot when you depress the brake pedal?

You can slightly feel it through the pedal, but it's mostly audible. Loud radio or mid to high rpm acceleration the exhaust noise covers it up. Doesn't translate through the steering wheel. I don't think it has anything to do with the brakes as it literally popped up after I put the wheels on, brakes were fine no wobble or unbalanced feeling, to it being there the same day. It's not bad, but it's more than enough to annoy me.

I installed the wheels myself originally, used 82 ft lbs, in a star pattern... yesterday discount did their thing balanced the wheels and put them back on, and it's still there. So unfortunately I don't think that's the problem either :(


Edit: I ordered a set of 73 outer 66.1 inner hubcentric rings just in case. I'm willing to lose $20 just to make sure...

Potenza pole positions. Don't know the age as they came with the wheels, they've got some good tread left though... imo opinion on the offsets, the fronts poke a little to much for me, but I don't think there's anything I can do about that.

In terms of the wobble, what type of lug nuts are you using? The right choice will vary depending on the type of wheel you have. The ones that come with the stock sport wheels are not suited to most after-market wheels. As far as the noise, it could be that your tires are nearing the end of their useful life. I know that when my PSSs were down to 5/32" on the rears, I started to hear a "whump-whump-whump" noise that disappeared when I switched over to new PS4s. Had a similar problem on another vehicle when the tires became worn. How much tread is left on your tires?

I bought mine off e-bay for cheap.

They have a lip on them that interfered with my Enkei wheels. So, I took them to a local machine shop and had the lip turned off for $10.

Now, they fit perfectly and the car is vibration free up to 120.

The rings will help to center up the wheel & if those lugnuts have a 60* bulge seat...be sure & have some good ones.
I'd find out peak torque on the studs you're using & pull them tighter than 80 ft.lbs.
80 is for the shank style oem factory lugnut's.
My Forgestars came w/rings & I also replaced my studs...as I pull quite a few more pounds than that.

stabbing hard on the brakes @60mph & light grip on the steering wheel,will tell you if rotor's are warped...also don't ever touch them with your fingers while your wheel's are off; it can put oil from your skin on them.

A wheel that has a slight amount of lateral or radial runout will "0" out a balance machine,,,but the tire tech should see this & inform you.

The hub rings will help & use nut's with the correct "bulge/seat" as this is very important.