370Z Wheel Stud Torque???
 

Guys,
I have looked in the Nissan 370Z shop manual, and all over this web site, I can not fine the Nissan spec to torque either the 19" Rays Sport wheels, or the 19" later Rays NISMO wheels. It just shouldn't be this hard. Does anyone know the official torque number. I have both sets of wheels, used on my 2010 40th Anniversary model.
Help
Thanks
Brian S
I'll take the number any way, I'll convert it to ft.lb.

I believe is 80

80 ft-lbs

Its 80 bro .

Wouldn't hurt to torque it to 85 but the correct number is 80

Stud Torque
 

Guys,
Thank You!!!
You were all more help than Nissan.
Brian S

Always are.

Called Nissan Today
 

Guys,
Just for the heck of it, I called my Nissan dealer today, and had him check with the factory about 370Z wheel nut/stud torque. He came back with, normal Nissan cars are 80 ftlb's, 370Z with Rays forged wheels are 109 ftlb's. Since I use anti-seize on my wheel nuts, I dropped it 15% to 95 ftlb's.
Interesting Information
Brian S
:driving:

Lol. You asked a dealer.:roflpuke2:

No, actually I asked the factory service dept., that's where the call went.

80

OK Guys
I'm missing something here...
Are you saying that the engineers, designers, & technicians that made the car that you & I drive, don't know what they are talking about?

I called, because I ran the 80 ft. lb.'s by our fastener/joint engineers at my work, yes we have those people. We calculated the stud size, thread pitch, nut engagement, material, and lastly, how it's used/clamp load. The calculations came up with 80 ft. lb.'s being too low. It seems that Nissan agrees.
Brian
:driving:

I guess you have your answer.

They might have neglected to mention that 108 is in N.m., but in case you want to trust them anyway, I'll just leave this here.

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1484193699

Beat me to it.

Sorry guys,
If you want to be snotty OK, I forgot this is a forum, read your own stuff, Regular Grade with cast wheels, not 19" forged wheels. But regardless, good engineering says otherwise.
Brian

What is the reasoning behind tightening forged wheels tighter than cast?

Why did you even bother asking? Calculations never lie.

Getting iggy with it.

You'll be fine at 80lbs there is no reason to caveman them any tighter on unless you want to end up with stripped lug-nuts or studs

never mind the fukin hernia you're going to get trying to get them off in an emergency!

Even an aftermarket Dorman fastener company says 80ft.lbs.
But the list the GTR @97ft.lbs. (same thread pitch,but different looking nuts) M12x1.25.....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...00180d292e.jpg


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id go more than 80 to be safe

110 lbs for me with spacers and aftermarket wheels.

How did you arrive to that number? Because of the spacers?

i have spacers and aftermarket wheels also i go 120ish to be safe

This table from TireRack seems to imply that lug nut torque is based solely on the stud size, not wheel type or nut type. I have seen this table on several sites.

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1484238561

Yes Sir and the fact that my setup is heavier than stock, better safe than sorry. Besides, I have Z1 aftermarket extended studs as well which is another reason.

We are Nissan! Lol

Or you could always ask your wife to pull it back with a vacuum!

I have 2 Chevy Trucks W/M14x1.5 studs & factory wheels/nuts....both torque to 140ft.lbs.
This also includes the Gen5 Camaro.

Working out clamp load
 

Guys,
Whether it's head bolts, or wheel studs, how you get to usable clamp load is about the same. There is a reason that most cars have steel wheels. The reason is, because steel rims are made so that they provide a spring effect, very much like a lock washer. It's very easy to get enough clamp load, by just about anybody, even with a crappy flat tire wrench. Sand cast or die cast centered aluminum wheels, or completely cast wheels, have one thing in common. They all have air captured in the cast aluminum. Unless they are vacuum cast, which is expensive, air is present. Air makes the aluminum less dense. Where as forged centers or forged wheels are much more dense, more solid. Forged wheels also have the ability to bend, as opposed to cracking. Cast wheels will have their wheel nuts bed in, a little like the steel wheels. Forged wheel will not, so they require a higher torque. The harder and denser the material the higher the torque, if all things are equal. Wheel studs are all about the material, OD, and how fine the threads are. Fine threads are stronger than coarse threads. It's pretty easy to say that any OEM wheels stud/bolt has way more engineering in it than any aftermarket fastener. The bigger the wheel, the wider the tire, the higher the load, higher the cornering speed/load, all would effect the clamp load required.
Hope that helps
Brian S

What was the question?

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