:icon18: I just started the thread, and put the question out there. Mitch is the brains. I don't have a clue when it comes to tuning. I'm learning from everything Mitch, Phunk, Jwick, et al, are saying in the other thread..

Don't stop Mitch, you are an incredible resource! I'm learning so much reading your posts.

:iagree:

And I'm a Red Seal C&M Electrician who programs PLC, and robots, device net etc,etc, I also work with Engineers, and we are in the Automotive industry. Mitch, you have waaaaaay too much personality to be an Engineer in the automotive field, you're going to have to tone it down a bit. :icon17:

I appreciate the kind words.


I hope to one day work for myself in the automotive field. Well I technically kinda do currently but I want it to become a full time setup. While I will admit to absolutely not being able to do anything to change the body of the car like yourself. I do usually grab hold of things a few at a time to see what can be improved and why it hasn't already been done.

Z1 is one of those shops who put the effort in to be new and explore ways to improve over what the factory has given us. Shops like them are few and far between and you will usually find them on forums such as this. Thats the sort of thing Id love to do, not so much OEM automotive stuff.

Thats awesome that you deal with PLCs and the like. I wish I paid more attention and took more courses dealing with coding and the processes used to deal with flashing and programming. It would have helped me out alot now when I find myself browsing forums to get the information.

One day at a time though, until then Ill toy around on here with this car.

Again I made NO reference to who was trying to solve the problem just that someone else had the same problem, someone with more experience than me. No reason to get worked up over something that wasn't said.

Its all good. No worries here.

Ran a couple logs when I got home. Do we have a way transfer/upload them?

Dropbox?

It's all good. Just a bit of ball busting on the interwebz. :roflpuke2:

Anybody got one?

Dropbox or google drive works great.

I think this solved it for me. The idle is damn near perfect. Dont mind the wideband I am convinced its not 100 percent accurate. The cars O2s are much closer to stoic.

Also the engine doesnt sound that ticky in person, the phone camera picks up that frequency more than others. It also comes down to idle nice and smooth.

I am just going to have to pick up a oil catch can and vent to atm and that should do it. Once this is done there is really no reason to keep those two filters either, it can all be deleted and routed through the catchcan.

Let me know what you guys think.

Have you driven it? Is the hiccup sti 'll there or did it fix that too?

I havent drove it because I dont want oil to get all over my engine, that will have to wait until I get a oil catch can. I reved it up a few times like that and it settled down perfectly. But your right, it would have to be road tested to confirm 100 percent.

I could hear the idle instantly change when I plugged back in the stock lines.

So pumped for the final results Mitch. You ever in Texas, tab is on me!

:) Ill order a catch can next week and give it a shot. Anyone run one or have any suggestions as which one is the best?

I was also wondering about blipping the throttle and seeing what happens with the idle. It does seem nice and smooth in your video though.

Oil catch can,

Radium Oil Catch Cans

Mr.Squeeze has said he was going with one of these, I'm not sure if he received his though,

Saikou Michi Co. 2013

Here's another,

Ultimate Oil Catch Can

Damn. Didn't realize a catch can setup would cost $600. Might go see what JTran recommends

There are cheaper options out there D1 SPEC Racing Oil Catch Tank Can fuel silver square original package-in Fuel Supply & Treatment from Automobiles & Motorcycles on Aliexpress.com

You know 'cheap' is not in me. The engine bay is so clean now I wouldn't want to ruin that. I just didn't realize it was going to be $250-300 a can to setup. I don't see the double can working too well so I was looking at two single cans. Next thing is where to mount them.

Still running it by JTran to see what he thinks about venting everything.

You getting in line for his radiator overflow tank? I might depending on price and I would want him to add a site glass to the outside so I would know fluid level without removing the cap.

I hope I'm in line. I posted on their FB that i want one. A sight glass would be the bees knees.

I was one of the first, if not the first to order one of the rad overflow tanks from that other company that were going to be made a GTM time ago. They even had/have my credit card info...

I also know that you do not do cheap, that's why I didn't bother posting catch cans from Summit in the other post. I just gave you the link to the cheap one for laughs. Seriously, how the heck can they sell that for $12? :icon14:

Probably running by the shop next Friday. I'll see about adding a site glass and get a rough price and revert back

I miss so much not being on Facebook sometimes, how does one get in on their coolant tanks? I am uploading a reving video right now although the sound quality sucks as the camera has a hard time picking it up, I should have used my go pro come to think of it.

Here it is, sounds I would say 90% factory, this is after I removed the Post cat O2s and change the cold fueling tables. Listen for yourself, again hard to hear and I dont want to drive it like that until I get a catch can. I think a single catch can setup would work just fine in our setup. I doubt your going to have enough blowby to warrant a big dual can setup. But again it would be nice to hear from one of the guys who deal strictly with this engine.

This is now a measure of time, fantastic sir. :tup:

:tup: :tiphat:

I'm not on Facebook either but JTran os my tuner. Just call and talk to Amber and tell her you are interested in it. I can add you to the discussion Friday as well :tup:

I would appreciate it man, If I can get rid of that stock tank and that power steering reservior I would be happy. If I ambitious I might T off those lines and run them down the car and relocate one of those filters that we are currently using. I dont run catch cans on our diesels, but then again they are dirty and no one cares about a little blowby, most just route the line down along the frame and zip tie it off.

No problem. It occurred to me that we could save a little money by reusing the filters Sasha provided.

Bringing this back, Mitch any updates? You get a catch can setup?

Nope not on that front, I just installed my 3" boost tubes tho and am going to be out tuning that today.

To be honest with you I am not sure if I will ever bother with the catch cans, my hunt is very small now after changing up the other things. Catch cans arent cheap. Maybe over the winter I will look at doing it.

So in recap. Delete the post cat O2s and changed of the old start table? That's all you changed right?

Yes delete the post O2s and change the cold fueling table to the main fueling table because I think it switches between the two more than Uprev would like you to think.

Not sure if this is the answer or if you have already thought of this. This could be because the BOV you are using vents to atmosphere rather than recirculating. The 370 uses a maf so it could be messing up your readings causing you to run rich. Back when I had my turbo honda, I never had this issue cause we used a MAP sensor rather than a MAF. Here is a link for reference.

Can someone explain, Recirculating BOV to me please? | DSMtuners

The BOVs on our kits are pre mAF, so they are not releasing metered air.

Thread Jack...

I stopped in on the JTran dynoday Saturday and Amber informed me that they should be getting the materials in for the overflow tank this week and start welding them up. She seemed pretty confident they could add a site glass too. I didn't get any pricing since they were busy with the dynoday. Heading up there this Friday to get the post cat O2 sensors deleted from my map. I'll inquire more and revert back.

Also have them try copying the main fueling table into the cold fueling table and see how you make out with that. Also if they have time have them play with the timming right around idle... IIRC mine is at or right around 66, not sure what uprev calls 66, but thats what it is in the table, lol.

Hit me with the stupid stick if we covered this already but are any of the fixes we are kicking about do anything for the stumbling hiccup as you come off closed loop cruise to standstill idle? Or all just centered around the searching idle?

Mine doesnt really hiccup all that much anymore. I would suggest pulling the car into closed loop sooner and see if that gives the car time to settle down before you notice it. I actually have mine to pretty much wait till boost to switch over to open loop, its a bit more aggressive than I had before, seems to work fine tho

My rough idle issue after A2A install
 

I have idle surge between 13.5 and 15.5. this only happened after mechanic installed A2A kit I got second hand in Tampa, I doubled checked everything and it was in good condition. He said its normal to have idle surge since it has a bov but doesn't make sense since its before the maf lol

car 370z - has stillen sc , test pipes & catback exhaust, 9psi upgrade pulley, a2a kit , tial bov.


I placed the csv log in a zip file on here , I have a vid but its pretty much the same as the other one on the thread its just hunting and idle bounces as well. I sprayed the maf's just to make sure they were clean, as well as carb cleaner around the engine to check for leaks but no joy.. can it be the o2 sensors are black after the tune since it was kicking out black soot in the beginning ?... any ideas ?

You might want to start a new thread titled for your specific issue. Everyone discussing their issues, me included, on the thread has the BP turbo kit.