How about reducing the weight of the driver? Lets say 50lbs? Would that bring in more whP?
Damn Michelin tires on my belly just wont wanna wear out!:tup:

Given the car is in the very rough ballpark of 1:10 hp:weight like most reasonable street sport cars, you'd have to drop 500lbs to make up 50hp :)

Damn!!! 500Lbs??? I have to cut my NUT Cracker in achieving that HP.
Ok back to topic.
Can uprev give you the 50hp plus bolt ONs with lightweight pulley? Fair enough?

Where did the 50hp number come from anyways? :P

Again intake ,Exhaust tune= 300 WHP Stock is about 260ish, 40 WHP is a lot plus the tuine makes the car a lot more fun to drive, Throttle respones is greatly improved, All that can be had for less tha $1500 just look around. :)

$1500 is a bit on the low side, to achieve maximum gains he will need more than just a catback but HFC (which cost more), test pipes or long tube headers (most expensive most gains most noise). You're looking closer to $2000 plus install. I recommend getting a quality installer or it will cost you more in the long run.

If you simply want a little more life in your car best bang for the buck mod is either more aggressive gearing or a set of HFC's/test pipes.

Weight loss is usually overlooked but makes a huge difference, I'd be wary about gutting everything from the trunk though, it will make the car more tail happy.

Turbos can be high maintance. The turbos push more air when they are scrolled up and making boost. The more you have to have a safe Air/Fuel ration (stoichiometric prefection is 14.7) They usually tune it a little lean on the low end were you cruise with low load for better fuel miliage and rich (more fuel) in the higher revs to be safe. Lean tuning makes more power but produces more heat. Heat can melt pistons and heads, it can spontaniously ignite the fuel and jar the piston on its way up. This is known as spark knock or detonation. It can damage piston ring lands. So you have to be careful and get a good tune.

Since most turbos are lubricated with the engines oils if the seals leak you can burn loose oil in the engine and make the bearings run dry(catostrophic failure).Most turbos inherently burn some oil. I have heard stories of Suburu's burning a quart of oil every oil change right off the lot when brand new. It is easy to forget that the turbo maybe spinning at 100K rpm. If you get a turbo a turbo times is a good investment. It lets you take your keys out of the car and lock it up and the engine will idle for a predetermined amount of time (usually a minute or two). This keeps the oil flowing to the turbo while it is slowing down. Because if you gun it coming into a parking lot, the turbo is spinning fast. You park it and jump out of the car like normal with engine off the turbo is spinning with no new oil. It cooks the oil off and is very hard on the bearing. If the bearings go out in the turbo the prop will hit the housing and chew the prop and send metal into the engine. this was a rebuilt turbo that didn't make it 1500miles in my 89 240sx (CA18DET).http://i413.photobucket.com/albums/p...3/100_0008.jpg

Was only saying 1500 cause I did all of mine for that, 255 WHP ended with 298 WHP ( 43 WHP) An NO HFC's ,TP's or headers.

Intake Gen 3's Catback (SIG) and Tune. Also on a atuo he would see a little more if he's a manual.

has anybody installed a chip in there Z or know if they work

There aren't any "Chips" for our cars..

Its a "tune".. Cable goes into ECU, tuner modifies ECU settings, Tuner dyno's the car, sets up maps, unplugs cable and .....WAHLA! A tune :)

plus i think we've debunked the theory that you cant get 50whp more out of this engine from bolt ons just recently

be an optimist... full exhaust, intake, tune on a civic is like 8whp so it could be way worse for spending the money haha

realistically though 40-50whp on bolt ons for an NA car is not bad either way. Anything further is gonna require forcing the air in which if i recall the compression being 11:1 dispite the beefier build of the VQ37 you're gonna be limited on boost with the stock motor... so then you're looking into a motor build, downtime, Dollazzz, not a good combination for a DD. Not saying turbo is bad because turbo is the ultimate replacement for displacement but these cars seemd like they were designed to stay NA.

More importantly has anyone ran E85 through these motors with unretarted timing? :D