Ecutek tune concern
 

I got my car ecutek tuned recently and although the car felt perky and fast initially, now I few hundred miles in, the car's power feels somewhat the same as before the tune and not as snappy and powerful..

What could this be... Placebo effect originally? Maybe I got used it? Car pulling timing, if so. Why?

For reference, the issue is the same whether in cold or hot weather, traffic or high speed and I've used the same gas, Shell 91 octane.

Anyone experience this?

I'm having similar issue. A setting within ecutek. It starts fighting with vvel

I know I wasn’t going crazy lol. What’s causing it? How can it fixed?

Anyone else care to input? Thanks

I'd talk to Seb about it. I'm on ecutek by him and haven't had this sort of issue. Please keep this thread updated though

Well, I definetively knew something was wrong as I just got an SES light and the car feels stock now. Will resetting ECU help?

What is the light on for? Have you pulled any codes?

I have no clue. I have no way to scan it. Gonna have to take it to Seb this week ughhhh :shakes head:

Code scanners can be had for cheap ($20-50). If you are going to be doing any trouble-shooting, a scanner (or more sophisticated logger) and the FSM (it's free) are must-haves.

I hear you brotha. Yeah ima have to invest in one. Didn’t have the need for one until now

Yeah I sent him an email. Hopefully there's something he can do remotely. The car now feels like crap and doesn't sound right

In the meantime, you can also have the code read for free from most local auto parts stores (Autozone, CarQuest, O'Reilly's, etc.).

Thanks swisscheese. I'm going to Specialty Z tomorrow. I spoke to Seb via email and he said it may be a leak somewhere and the O2 sensors picked up in it.

I'll update once I'm sure what it is

Yea you can't really blame a tune for a poor install or parts failure causing a running concern. Fix the issue not the tune.

Update: I took the car to Specialty Z and everything was fine in regards to the HFC installation and there were no exhaust leaks either. Turns out it was a combination of a few things that made me throw a code. Let me explain, right when when this happened, I was running on MAP 2 (aggressive mode) when I decided to pump Costco gasoline, which I was told I shouldn't have used. This, combined with the fact that it was literally 112 degrees in Cali, was the perfect combination to make the car run like crap and flash a SEL.

I was recommended to use better gas such as Shell or Chevron and to always run the "Hot weather map" when above 95+ degrees outside.

I did as told and once I finished the Costco gasoline and the weather got cooler, I pumped some Chevron fuel, switched to "Aggresive mode" and now everything is back to normal again.

Good update. Yeah I've had a tank or two of bad gas and had to switch to my less aggressive map. I know before a code goes up though thanks to the ecutek knock light

Lol dude the sel flashing is ecutek indicating to you that you have a knock occurrence so yes it will pull timing and that will absolutely rob power. I have not tested misfire sel flashing (oem) vs ecutek knock flashing to see if the two are distinguishable but a misfire vs knock should be pretty obvious.

My map 1 (hot temp) will only throw knock occurrence going over the grapevine no where else has it ever knocked. I only use map 2 (higher timing) at the track and then I add a little octane boost just to be safe.

I do periodic checks/logs and noticed I got added correction using certain fuels, but it only shows up in the EcuTek interface and sometimes I'll notice a slight drop in power. Fortunate to never get to the point an SEL flashes.

Just because it flashes doesn't necessarily mean it's bad, it's just letting you know it had an occurrence and adjusted timing. I wouldn't doubt if the oem tune gets some pre ignition going over the grapevine (oem tune doesn't flash the sel for pre ignition BTW so you would know if it happened) that's what the knock sensor is there for and to self correct for that extreme load. If tuned to not pre ignite under an extreme load condition/ high heat condition (like going over the grapevine in 98 degree weather) then the car would not be getting full power in a regular condition (normal load i.e. not a massive hill climb in the middle of august). It just shouldn't be a constant thing but to have a pre ignition occurrence under non normal circumstances (and were not talking audible marbles in a can knock here either) then I'm not worried.