Very true indeed, going all out NA is awlays pricey.

nice numbers my friend! can wait to tune mine someday when i finish the mods hahaha!

All motor is always super pricey for huge gains. But I think everyone is correct. But I was just stating that 10whp could be gained over HFC when swapping to LTH. And far as the comparing the apple to orange ( honda vs Nissan ) ok maybe but the concept is the same and the VQ is a pretty good flowing motor just like a K maybe not as good but Damn near close and from what I've seen over the years the avg is about 5-15whp depending on the car and other mods. Sometimes when you add better flowing exhaust Intake whatever you have will make the other mods work better and generate more power. Like if you have cams but have stock air box and stock exhaust and header gains aren't going to be huge but once you change out the other to help increase air flow the cams begin to make power because they can work at full efficiency. I don't think the VQ is close to is max from the factory. Seeing that they dyno around 265-280stock and FBO they get around 310-330 that a huge jump in power in my opinion.

I like these kinds of conversation they are good for the community a lot of people learn stuff seeing it from different views and experiences


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I'm glad we started this staying NA = $$ also. I almost refuse to go FI ( Bad experience) and stay NA I looked all over the place on what to do to make mid 300 WHP and short of FI I couldn't find anything. The guys posting 330+ WHP and on high reading dyno's unless they have mid 12's time slips trapping 115's they don't have that.

Case in point my car IS max out in WHP , I have everything minus headers, 2 reasons I don't have them. Is added noise ( Old man LOL) and the cost off install and price of the headers themselves VS gains

I'm sitting at 302 WHP low dyno and trapped 103 to 105 MPH constantly on 5 runs, and 13.5's. If I use a dyno calc just for giggles is shows my motor making 375 BHP. Headers, even long tubes are not going to get to 400 BHP. IMO the Z1 kit wont produce 400 BHP either since I'm running their parts BTW, minus headers of course :)

MODS and maxed out: 302 WHP 240 WHTRQ

Z1 HFC's
Z1 Oil Cooler
Z1 Power Plenum,
Ported Stock lower plenum,
Takeda Cold Air intakes
ARK Grip Cat-Back

I mean this is right on the money, Type in your WHP, cars weight and it'll tell you what you "should have run" mine is exact, some thousandths off but right,


1/4 Mile ET Calculator

lmao, i didn't see i typed in 330lbs instead of 3,300lbs and it says 5 seconds. i was looking at it wtf is going on here lol. so for me it says 12.6 which i know a bolt on z can't get lol. or at least i havent seen any get yet?

:iagree:

are you adding the weight of you also? for my weight I entered 3554, 3314 for car weight for the 7at, then 240 for me, 330 whp, translates to 12.86 ish which is right on to my 12.841 or close enough. seems about right to me....

I Did I put in 3800LBS and the 302 WHP from my dyno sheet and gave me 13.548 and I ran 13.536 :)

for me it says i should run a 12.8 - 12.9.. i wonder if i can do that without ever having gone to the track before.

take a ride down to FL and hope for a good DA day :tiphat:

I've been tempted to head south to regain my spot on the 1/4 ET list or higher.

i think florida is sinking so it's secretly downhill... everyone there is going 12.9 and faster lol

I need to take my car down go run a 12.7 or so and take a higher spot back.

the track we have here, i'm not sure if it sucks or just sucky drivers, but not one of the 5.0 mustangs go break into 12s all of them were 13.1 - 13.5

maybe both.

decent day and track conditions I hit 12.89 @ 111

since then my best has been around 12.95 but typically 13.00 due too us getting super hot days/nights up here is not good. 80-95 degrees and 75-100% humidity.