Ok to try and make it clearer

This is the WHEEL horsepower from my car before and after uprev
http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...pszgov1rmk.jpg


I am realistic and wasn't expecting massive figures, this is my first N/A car after owning a couple of Skylines R33/R34 and an Evo 6 which were all highly modified but I thought it should make 20-30hp more , hell even stock I thought it would be 260hp at the wheels

If you compare my chart with a manual 370z with similar mods PLUS Berks high flow cats on the same dyno (These are flywheel calculations of course)

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j1...psypgkyszk.jpg



I do have a set of test pipes I can fit , but will i really pick up 27hp and 20 ft lbs by fitting them ? Are the stock cats really that bad ?

Flywheel (flexplate?) numbers -- not quite that much, but in that ball park. Expect (dynojet estimated) 12 -15 whp gain.

Also, note that I have never seen any evidence of greater drivetrain losses on the AT as compared to the MT for this car. Full lock up, well designed trans, and CFRP driveshaft must help quite a lot!

Seriously, I highly doubt you are seeing values that are wildly different from anyone else's.

Go through this thread for excruciatingly detailed discussions plus dynos with various mods -- bear in mind that load holding dynos are always highly variable from shop to shop depending on calibration values whereas dynojets tend to be very stable from unit to unit, shop to shop.

http://www.the370z.com/south-east-re...se-thread.html

It starts getting very detailed by about p. 5.

Go by proportionate (i.w., % change) changes to make estimates -- these measured values are all to the tire; no estimated flywheel numbers from coast down.

I'm used to my cars exceeding the factory claims , it seems by spending around $2000 I'm still 20hp down on where Nissan claimed :(

Take it to someone with a dynojet before you get all worked up about the number. I seriously doubt you're making less power than stock.

Guys these cars have about 15% drive train loss. You need a dynojet, SAE, 5th gear to be most accurate as all manufactures use SAE for the motor tests. 5th is our 1:1. If you're not doing that you cannot compare.

I don't know of any dynojet dynometers unfortunately as I said in the UK dyno dynamics are the most common, there are a few sun dyno's , dastek and dyna packs around

I understand but I'm saying don't then compare to the factory.

I'm not a big fan of chasing around dyno's to get the figures you want , I'm not convinced that a dynojet dyno will give more accurate figures than a DD one but I've found one about 65 miles away so I'll get a print out from them to compare

Don't then. If the dyno said you gained hp after parts and a tune and the before was zero hp and the after was 15hp you know what you gained. You may only have a 15 hp car but so what. I'm sure it still feels fast (as fast as any Z with same bolt on's and tune). Just don't worry about comparing to others or oem output.

Disappointing dyno results 370z 7at
 

Intakes don't usually help too much on the dyno (hood open breaths pretty well)

HFCs or test pipes will help way more. However once you drop the hood gen3s are great as they drop your heat rise 10-20 degrees.

First, you were almost definitely dynoed in 4th, which is fine, but that will affect final torque values by a few lb/ft (I actually have data on this in my dyno thread). You have to have the speed limiter removed to dyno in 5th on the AT.

2nd, because the "flywheel" values are estimates derived from measured wheel power (and on a load holding dyno at that), its hard to evaluate how close they are to actual values, which could only be calculated by unbolting the motor from the car.

Then there's however it applied correction due to temperature and air pressure.

But, yes, assume you will be in the ball park as that other dyno given the same mods, a good tune, dynoed in same gear, and in similar conditions.

If you aren't, it might be that different calibration values were entered for your vehicle vs. another.

I can honestly say I don't know what my whp will be but I'm very optimistic about it (though I shouldn't be). With only a stillen intake (gen 3), injen CBE, and Berk HFC, it probably won't produce that much. The real production of power is when you drop a SC or TT in her (which I wish I could do)....

I had my car tuned at Uprev in Austin TX. The top end gain was 4hp from 282 baseline to 286. In the middle of the power band, I picked up 10hp. To be honest, I was super disappointed with the results as I was expecting an improvement of up to 20hp.

The tuner told me that about 5hp on the top end was normal for the AT and that a 20hp gain was impossible for these cars.

In my experience, the tune was not worth the expense. I needed it to clear the codes created by my 4.08 gear upgrade.

If you have added standard upgrades like intake, TP and exhaust, you don't need a tune. The ECU will adjust properly to accommodate the improved air flow.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05...af24f2ad59.jpg my first run was in fourth & Dyno guy let off gas @7200- because shift light came on, 2nd run was in 5th 1:1 & numbers increased,but speed limiter kicked in @7k 156mph.


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Disappointing dyno results 370z 7at
 

I respectfully disagree a bit with the tune not being required for small mods. Half the fun of a tune is getting the most out of your mods, but also you correct for rich or lean which can be a bit dangerous for the motor. (Well lean anyway).

Also and perhaps more fun, our EDC can hold 5 tune "maps" (accessed using the Cruz control buttons)

Mine are
1 91 octane high alt map for denver
2 94 octane Cali map
3 2800 rpm valet map
4 kill switch (no fuel map)
5. Stock.

I use all these maps occasionally and they are worth the price of admission for a tune I would say. I'm up about 60 whp from stock using the z1 400 hp kit and Berk catback (that's based on increase from baselines before and after mods on a dyno jet). The stock tune did not keep up with my mods and I worry if I'd gone that route I'd be very lean driving around. (And would have to avoid wide open throttle)