Have to agree with everyone here, more rear bar is not what you want. that is not the reason you are getting understeer. On OEM springs/bar the understeer is coming from sag and compounded by body roll. If you are on a budget, grab a set of swift spec-r's and a stillen front bar.

Umm, actually...im not asking if I should run more rear bar. I am asking if running NO rear bar at all might be a viable option to address understeer.

It's not really about budget either, more about applying non-conventional tactics to solve the problem within confines of competition rules.

As a general set of rules, whichever end is made stiffer, the less it will tend to grip and the more it will tend to slip; whichever end is heavier will tend to shift weight around more, and thus come loose; whichever end has poorer grip will tend to break traction.

In theory, to induce oversteer, all else remaining unchanged, you would want to run a stiffer bar in the rear, not remove it.

It gets trickier as you brace various sections, play with spring rates, tire camber, etc, but my guess is you'll want it as neutral as possible with just enough oversteer to suit your skill level.

All that said, if you touch nothing else on the car, but brace the hell out of the rear (e.g., with a stiffer anti-sway), it will be more likely to break traction on a turn.

Of course, you want it to be predictable and controllable, so that will depend on your skill, comfort, and familiarity with whichever course you are running. Just enough oversteer for one turn can be catastrophic for another depending on skill... dial in with caution.

Best thing to do if you are really serious is stick with OEM settings and get good with that -- FR cars tend to be a bit oversteer biased anyway (its pretty easy to break the rear tires loose on the Z), even though road cars tend to to be tuned from the factory to lean towards understeer.

If you can get the nose to tuck in consistently and controllably now, but feel you can handle more turn-in, go with a stiffer rear bar, ideally one that is adjustable.

Again, me personally, I like it as neutral as possible, with just a touch of oversteer, but my skills are modest.

On that note, I've previous set up FF's to rotate -- FF's are much more biased towards understeer, but it can be done if you brace the hell out of the right sections.

Do not take the bar off on a street class car. Period.

Ha! A very direct answer. I can appreciate that.

Sorry I read it correctly and typed it wrong.

If you are 100% OEM, definitely I do not recommend removing rear bar. Our rear OEM springs are too soft as it is.

If you want a quick decent upgrade though for not a lot of money I would still recommend the same spec-r's and the stillen bars. I would recommend adding one bar at a time just to see what it does. Start with the front full stiff +OEM rear. Then just disconnect one of the end links on the rear bar. Then try the stillen full soft...