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Alignment for a DD and track?
Anyone have alignment set up the recommend for both DD and track? I don't mind if it wears on the tires some but I don't want to kill $1200 in tires in a couple months. I have F14s 18x10+35 and 18x10+25 with 275/40/18 RE11s going on the car Friday or Saturday.
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i heard corner balancing is good
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I use factory settings for both and it does fine on track. Running 18x10 F14s square.
That being said. My recommendation would be to purchase Firestone Auto Care (if these shops, or something similar are in your area) lifetime unlimited alignments. I don't think they advertise this service. For like $190 you can get your car aligned as many times as you want. Pays back for itself within like 3 alignments. You can also have it aligned for the track, then go in the day after tracking and have it reset to stock. As many times as you want. For as long as you own the car. I take full advantage of this and also get my car aligned every time I go in for any other service or state inspection. |
I plan to do coil overs in October - November so I will to do corner balancing until then.
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Which front upper control arms you have?
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I haven't changes anything in the suspension yet, by you asking that I'm guessing there is do adjustment? It's my next project, any recommendations? I'm planning on doing KW v3s.
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If you want to adjust camber and caster. There is only one. SPL upper arms. Stock arms, you can't do anything with them.
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Quote:
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Just got a corner balance done by RT Tuning in PA. Installed my KW v3's three weeka beforehand. Car handles unbelievably good! Went with -2.1 front -1.6 rear. Basically just opted for a bit more front negative camber since I run slicks when I autox and from what ive read that helps a bunch.
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Quote:
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Eibach front/rear, front set to stiff and rear on soft
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Whiteline front and rear both on max stiffness.:driving:
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Interesting, I thought I would have to go softer with coil overs. Thanks for the info!
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I got the Hotchkis bars front and rear. The rear bar set on the softest settting. Which is too stiff. I'm going to change the rear bar back to the stock Nismo bar, and change my rear camber from -1,75 to -1.5 based on tire wear. The front with the Hotchkis bar, camber at -2, caster at +6, and toe at zero is great.
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Thats a bummer to hear, guess I should have kept my stock sway bars!
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I'll prob need front arms. At -2.5 and -1.5 with 1/8th toe out in front and 1/8th toe-in for rear. Casters only 5.4. I'm worried about my RS-3's for DD. From what everyone told me I can back camber down and caster up and achieve the same goal. So maybe I'll shoot for like -2.0 or lower with like 6-6.5 caster. Save the tires.
As for sways I have whiteline front set to full hard and stock rear with 18k/12k coils and still don't think I have enough front. A bigger front sway is next then going up on springs. |
I'm running -2.1 / -1.6, ill have to check toe/caster. I drive on RS-3's daily and R888 for the track (RS3 or R888 for autox). Those coils are crazy stiff syno!! How does it feel? Just got my car corner balanced and it feels incredible. Running KW V3's. First event on this setup this sunday.
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Doesn't feel stiff. Fronts at like 7 clicks hard and rears like 4. I just read though I guess Stance does zero though in the middle? So 7 may not be stuff enough. Car still drives almost like oem. A little stiffer and more bounce hitting bumps on the highway but that could be the rebound setting too. Fronts like 5 and rears like 4. I have no idea how to set it though. I still think plus 20k will be best since the Z's front is so heavy.
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-3.2 and 1.8 in rear 0 toe upfront and 1/32 or so toe in the rear, no wear camber on tire it's mostly toe that destroys your tires, you can always mount and reverse mount the rs3 just keep it directional if u drive on the rain or just be careful
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