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we could just do custom front sway bar but it wont be cheap....
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so lets get them made...........!
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If somebody put together a front swaybar kit that used Speedway's modular components, I'd be in for one. The arms don't have to be rotating blades, the regular bent steel or aluminum arms with a couple holes drilled would be fine. Blade arms could be a +$$ upgrade for the ballers.
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I know Shamu, I've built a bunch for a bunch of different cars - but happy to have someone else do the work for once :)
Specifically for the Z, arms with the right bends, and mounts that space the center out of the way of the oil pan. |
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I suspect the market for a swaybar that only fits dry sumped 370z will be rather limited ;)
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Since my springs have settled in, today I noticed the car dropped a lot in the front. I was to lazy to remove the 2 way reservoir, sway bar, rear lower coil bolts etc etc then have a hell of a time spinning the lower with the 2 ways SS line hitting everything. So I just raised the car with the upper perch/lower spring perch. This of coarse adding a ton more preload to the spring vs just having the spring snug in the upper perch and mount. Negative effects? Car looks and feels WAY different. I had a racked rear end thing going on and could see over the hood. Now the cars sitting even and it looks like I'm driving a semi again.
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Moving this over here to this thread instead of my journal:
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Ultimately I think I still need springrate to control the car's roll to really address this, but I think stepping down the rear bar was probably helpful and will continue to be helpful with the stiffer springs in play. The flipside is that for the moment reducing the rear bar perhaps reduced some of its unwanted effects on the rear suspension, but at the cost of allowing a little more total roll by reducing total rear springrate. In any case, these are the best equivalent pics for comparison I could find from the photographer who was out there this weekend while I had the stock rear sway on. In most of these pics the situation looks improved, although in one of them it looks about the same as before: http://www.the370z.com/members/wstar...y-sep-2014.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/wstar...y-sep-2014.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/wstar...y-sep-2014.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/wstar...y-sep-2014.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/wstar...y-sep-2014.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/wstar...y-sep-2014.jpg I've got new springs sitting in the garage now ready for install, 900 front and 700 rear, so we'll see next event how that shakes up the situation. Oh and youtube link to my upload from the weekend :) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6BJpqH1js8 |
I was watching on youtube. Some ALM cars in slo-mo. What I seen was that most of them have really stiff suspenion set-ups with little suspenion travel. To the point of lifting the front inner tire. The outside tire is really loaded up. In your pictures. You've got more body roll.
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Bringing this topic out of the dead based on conflicting priorities around the same time as this. For whatever reason this thread isn't stickied, but a topic about "coilovers kits" IS. CIRCA 2013-2015
I recently made a post in this thread -http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...coilovers.html On how people were putting way too much emphasis on damper quality and features oppose to making sure the springs were adequately matched for the potential weight of a vehicle and its subsequent loads with gravitational forces, tire traction and other variables. As i didn't include a detailed response on what and why, the information here should answer most, if not all discussions about springs that i would have attempted to make all over. IF POSSIBLE THIS THREAD SHOULD BE STICKIED. I also read somewhere a few pages back (a few years back :o lol), the OP asked if he would need to change the free length of the spring if he was to go up in spring rates. I'm not entirely sure the question was answered, but in short i would say it would be dependent on the suspension travel needed to be achieved and the potential load a tire will see under g-forces. The length of the spring is dependent on several variables. A few of which being - total suspension travel achievable given the space around the tire from static ride height - length of the damper and its available stroke until bumpstop is engaged - Weight needed to achieve optimal preload and the springs overall compression length before binding - springs load capacity before binding (at best should be equal to or greater than the total corner weight the car can realistically achieve) In a fictitious situation where you only want/need to achieve 2.5 inches of spring travel from static ride height > while also falling within the load capacity of the potential corner weight> And you can achieve this with a 5 inch spring. Suppose the question now is, the spring mounting length needs a minimum 7 inches or the car will bottom out, engage the bumpstop, or unseat the spring? This is where a secondary spring can help. Of course there are several instances and variables that would require the use of a helper/tender or secondary spring. But at the very least, this is what it could be used for. Beyond this, there's a completely bigger rabbit hole to go down, i merely wanted to equate the differences between the information here about spring tension vs the argument about which coilover kit is best for "said" driving style. Great information here. |
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