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Lincoln is too far from SD when there's no jacket at stake.
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Troof.
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There is a ratio between front and rear ride frq that will tell you if the car has a tendency to oversteer or understeer. If you want to change that tendency-change that ratio. To redo my example, let's go back to our OEM rates: I am using 392 front springs, and 440 Springs (listed OEM rates I could find) They produce a ratio of: 1.6334/1.8563 = .89 Do you not find it interesting, that using completely different spring rates, this same .89 number is produced by just about every post market spring kit within a few decimal points? Swift Spec-R's claim 10K and 10.5K so approximately 560F 600R they produce a ride frequency on the same car of: 2.0115/2.2427 = .89 Much stiffer springs, totally change the way the car handles, so why is that .89 ratio still popping up? All I am saying is that .89 is not a coincidence and was put there by your car manufacturer, and by Swift, and Eibach, and by every other lowering spring I can find rates on. |
I should have given up when I said "I give up"...
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What you might be able to say - if you had a neutral car, and then you increased front spring rate, or softened the rear spring rate (increased that ratio value), the car would probably tend to understeer. But that's the opposite of what you're saying. |
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=q5pESPQpXxE |
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Sorry OP https://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=...&v=l5i_kyW7_Y4 |
...And taking setup advice from DOT street tire AX guys on a track car is dangerous. :icon18:
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Looks blue to me. |
Ok so after all the other diversions, I still have a couple fundamentally-simple questions (one of which I already asked!):
1) Will I need to use shorter springs if I switch to a significantly stiffer spring and want to keep ride height and stroke about where it is today? Or should I basically plan on ordering the exact springs I have today, just in a different rate value? What would a normal person that knew what they were doing tend to do? :) 2) The rear sway: it's a given I at least need to cut back to the stock bar. What about just dumping the bar altogether? I know others have dumped the rear bar and been happy in 350Z's, but I suspect this was in combination with an upgrade to stiffer springs all around. What's the worst that could possibly go wrong* if I dump the rear bar and fail to do (insert some other unknown thing that needs to be done at the same time)? Would the car get unstable in some way that I'd really hate? * - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20KJhBX9xtE |
Have you spoke with Z1 on what spring rates they use on kleemans car? I would just start with a popular track inspired setup then refine it from there.
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Well I've got a good idea on ballpark spring rates at this point (and a little confirmational math to do before I pull the trigger, which will be after I've dealt with the rear sway). Keeping in mind that I don't want to have to swap springs constantly at this stage for different tires and don't want to be too unstable on wets or r-comps, I'll probably shoot a little lower than the track specs listed in this thread, but still considerably higher than where I'm at now. Something in say the ballpark of 900 and 700 - which would be approx the same ratio of raw spring rates as what I have now, with both ends boosted by about 30%. I know there's more math to be done than that, but it's a starting point guestimate at this stage. I'm gonna go measure the suspension later today or tomorrow so I can make some easy conversion factors for F/R spring rate -> F/R frequency.
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Trying to learn from this thread, and my mind is going hu............................. |
good to see the Z track people putting enough 2 cents each to get a informative thread into page 4 :D
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