370z weight ratio? Front to rear.
 

I'm guessing that's important right? The stock weight is something like 50/50. Do all you keep that when tracking, or try? I weighed my car today and I weighed the front with half the car on the scale with it right in between the front and rear tires; which is right where the YAW sensor is. My math tells me I'll have a 56.5/43.5 ratio with a full tank. With a 1/4 tank its more like 58/42.

This is bad no? Obviously I'm not going to add 405 lbs to the rear so its 50/50 again when full of gas. Can coilovers dial in that much weight? Or does a spoiler count since they can produce a butt load of down force and I won't worry about it since at speed I'll be closer to 50/50 again?

Nissan's argument that acceleration will distribute the weight rearward to achieve a more neutral weight balance so they biased the weight towards the front while the vehicle is static.

If that is the case, synolimit would want to equalize the lb of downforce both front and rear. You wouldn't want to generate a huge amount of downforce in the rear and leave the front unattended creating unequal balance of downforce which I see a lot of people do nowadays which seems to be mostly the retarded clueless hellaflush crowd.. Considering that a proper wing(Ex. Voltex Varis) or even a lip spoiler with proper or aggressive angling does create on average 3 digit lbs of downforce, you will want to balance it out with with a front Lip, Canards, or even a vented hood, since a vented hood does release trapped air that would normally push the trapped air up creating lift so you don't have major squat under high speed with major front lift. You would want to provide traction to both front and rear and not just one. But yes the Front is heavier than the rear by quite a lot but the 370Z does have a hard acceleration which is where I can see why they placed more weight upwards. As for the aerodynamic mods, those really only come into effect once you hit the high 2 digits or simply 3 digits speeds in MPH that is HAHA.
Good luck with your build!!:tup:

This is from Nissan, maybe this will give you some additional insight to your question?

'53/47 weight distribution. Some consider a static 50/50 balance to
be the perfect weight distribution for handling. But Nissan engineers
realized that a 53 front/47 rear static ratio is actually ideal. At the
precise moment the driver accelerates out of a corner’s apex, the
weight distribution shifts rearward and becomes an approximate
50/50 balance.'

Cordially,

Sterling

Marketing crap.


Fixing weight on the Z is hard, otherwise Nissan would have done it.

Get the battery in the back, and drop what you can from the front. I wouldn't expect playing with downforce to be the first place to look.

Yep, I'm skeptical as well. I'm just listing what they said. :P

Yeah, not directed at you :p

Hmm...well my battery is only 11lbs but I could put it in the trunk. I'll be doing a rear roll cage only at first which will be a main hoop, horizontal bar across for the seat and seat belts, two bars for an X shape, two support bars from the rear towers to the main hope, an X setup there too from main hoop to rear towers and a horizontal bar from tower to tower. Just in bars that's about 70 lbs with no plates.

So the rear can get about 98 lbs heavier with a cage, battery, and spoiler. Then I was thinking about two piece front rotors, that's a loss of 20 lbs front but its unsprung so I don't think that counts, and maybe remove the crash beam. That moves the total to about 54.2/45.8 with a full tank and 55.5/44.5 with 1/4 tank.

What can coilovers dial in weight wise? How much of an inch drop or raise do you see?

Go get it corner balanced. You can get pretty close to where you'd like to be in terms of f/r.


Weight balance only tells part of the story but it does make a noticeable difference.

No coils yet, that's why I was asking.

You can get to 51/49 with careful weight adjustments and a good balance. You could probably hit 50/50 if you cared enough.

Edit: that's without ruining the handling. You can of course do ridiculous things with coils.

Lol.

Cool! So to relieve the headache I'll keep the little battery up front and just plan on the coils to get a little closer.

There is a lot you can do to get weight better equalized but it's work. I'll list from easy to more difficult .

Lightweight wheels
Lightweight battery. I wouldn't bother relocating it.
Lightweight flywheel and clutch
Aluminum hat brake rotors
Long tube headers

More work
350z head swap - 40 lbs!
Sequential tranny -40 lbs
Replace stock braking system and pedals for Tilton -25 lbs
Dyno all stock wiring harnesses sensors etc 25 lbs

I think my car was getting close to 50/50 but then we started tearing more weight out of the car.

The "more work" is out. I'll just have to live with the coils. I might do windows one day though and pull the abs.

Do you run without the front crash beam? I see you deleted the rear aluminium and did a steel round tube :confused:

if all you want is a 50/50 weight distribution, you guys are approaching this the difficult way.

Just put 150lb of ballast in the hatch.

:)

Actually not sure what I want. I just know what I have now and I don't think its ideal.

Lol but that undoes all the work I did to remove everything.

You could rework the firewall and move the engine and tranny back a few inches.

electric motor and battery in the back!

I think stock weight distribution with full tank was like 56/44

Here are some more ideas.

Move oil cooler to rear.
Delete AC
Dry sump with oil tank in back of the car
Dry carbon hood pinned
Electric PS pump
Custom steering rack

And yes losing brake rotor weight is huge.

Might do AC. Oil cooler still needs installed.

But when talking about weight distribution the wheels, tires, rotors etc don't move, they stay planted. So rotors in that sense would be pointless. Still doing them though for overall weight.

Well, I say..

Seriously, you want to maximize weight transfer you need more rear wheel bias. This is why 911's while not really great handling cars from a balance standpoint are extremely fast cars at the track.

Rear wheel weight bias gives a nice advantage under braking where weight transfer is larger. The car also has brakes on all four wheels meaning that traction limitations on the front wheels are not the only force at play. The rear brakes are more useful with more rear weight and also they tend to have more rubber on RWD cars.

Rear weight bias also gives an advantage on acceleration on corner exit as it allows more weight to transfer over the rear tires. The rear end being able to grip is what will allow you to get on power earlier.

You may want to do a little more research on sprung verses unsprung weight. Your first focus should always be on unsprung weight. Those stock rotors are freaking boat anchors and losing that weight makes huge difference in performance. From your suspensions ability to hold tire to pavement to accelerating and braking. Bottom line those heavy rotors are still putting more weight on front tires along with sprung weight. Your tires must overcome that weight whether it be sprung or unsprung. By removing excess rotor and wheel weight you effectively remove weight tires must overcome in a turn. Weight is weight but unsprung weight is even more important. Our cars are nose heavy to start so getting lightweight rotors does help with getting weight off the front tire load.

just run 275-295 tire sizes all around, help control that foward weight bias ;)

Trying to if someone buys my wheels. Either 285/35 or 295/30.