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that's correct, its on my JRZ RS pro, I didn't install the rear springs yet
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Mike on a scale of 1-10 1 being "perfectly drivable on street", 10 being "absolutely no f-ing way am I driving this thing to work". How would you rate your car for daily driver use, based on just the springs and ride quality-ignore everything else.
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interesting input in this tread :P
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...there is a reason my car has no tags. |
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Took mine off the street also. The aggressive alignment I'll be running is track only. Car is being setup up for the best turn in possible. I'm going full out.
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Motion ratio is like .63 front and .50 rear , that might be flipped. What alignment settings do you guys recommend for autox, street tires probably z2s in a square 275 setup?
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Car Maniacs : Life With Le Mans' - XJ220LM 962C 767B "We own racing cars, so we may as well use them in our everyday lives, it's only natural." |
Are you really comparing a street car with a bunch of aftermarket add-ons to a full blown race car at LeMans?
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Not insulting anyone, just saying there is a huge difference between something that is nearly impossible to drive on the street vs. something that is not fun to drive on the street
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@Mike, with 783 up front and rear in a coilover you have:
front ride rate: 2.3 Hz and rear rate: 2.1 Hz 2.3/2.1 = 1.09 I think this ratio is one of the most important things when doing the suspension voodoo math. I am using a number really close to that ratio with just lower spring rates and the OEM motion ratios. The hope is to get the same under/oversteer feel. Our OEM ratio is like .90 which is pretty standard OEM street car setup. BY using 672 front and 504(OEM rears) I will get 2.13 Hz/ 1.95 Hz = 1.09. This will prolly be a little loose till I throw a wing on. I use .62 for front motion ratio, and .62 rear(oem), or .73(Coil position) as my motion ratios. If I was going full track I would prolly move higher like you guys, but it's gonna be a while before that happens. |
Last I checked the front M/R was closer to .67 and .63 in the back (350z). .2hz front/rear is pretty safe. Keep in mind, most of the weight you drop off these cars comes from the back. Even playing around with ride heights, you'll still likely be 55/45 WD, at best.
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You could be right 350. It is really hard to measure though with just a jack a flashlight and a tape measure. I am also trying to fluff it a little with the 285 square setup I have.
Had a request for the math on Frequencies, I am attaching a spreadsheet. It is protected(so that I don't f up the equations) but it is not password protected so everyone can see the math behind it. You can change motion ratios, rates, etc. I am completely guessing on the corner weights though FYI. If you find a math problem in it let me know. |
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The motion ratio in the rear for independent spring shock is .5.
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No, it isn't.
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The rear suspension is largely the same...
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I thought it was .5 at first as well, but you have to measure all the way to the end of the wheel hub. It is closer to .6
That is a great link will have to play around with it. |
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