Thanks GB, I will definitely take a look at the spread sheet. On most of the courses I do, I never see even close to top of 5th. I know I will have the downside of an annoying shift here and there into 5th instead of topping 4th. But the door swings both ways- I will also get to the top of 4th faster. AS for anytime in the immediate future1-2 years the car will remain NA.

I have yet to go on a track in socal that needs 6th gear..........

But that is kind of my point, we can not even come close to getting to a speed that requires 6th gear, we hardly see any use of even 5th gear except at big willow and AAA. There is a whole gear that is basically doing us no good most of the time. Isn't it better to spread that usable range out over more gears? Sure it will cause some annoying changes in when and where you shift, but the net effect should be a more usable range of torque. And then if we did top out 5th gear, then 6th would still be available.

ur just rowing more gears, we are normally on 3rd or 4th gear, and straight away 5th gear, I think that's perfect....

i dont know about you, but if my gearing was any shorter id need 6th for ACS, which i dont wanna do cause it'll slow me down, since 6th is over drive

this is how i feel, i think the 370 gearing on socal tracks with 18s is pretty spot on

Pretty much the same at laguna and sonoma, you have to go to Vegas or thunderhill to get over 130 and the rovals

Another great shop for diff install is Unitrax in Anaheim (Unitrax • Differential and driveline parts and service. Ratio Changes & Overdrives. Axle Shafts. Using parts from the most reliable companies in the drivetrain industry: Dana Spicer, American Axle, US Gear, Timken, Gear Vendors, OS Giken, Autotech, F)

They work on a huge assortment of cars, from street to full blown race teams. They even apply a ID number plaque to the differential casing so that they can track the date of install, who the installer was, and any other special notes.

Speaking as someone that runs SoCal tracks and used to have stock MT gears, 4.08's are better gearing for the 4 SoCal tracks which are not pure power tracks (ACS) but only if you have uprev with higher redline. Without that you will top out early in 3 or 4 key places. With stock gears and uprev I used to leave some speed on the table.

Yeah I am even still considering the 3.9. It might be a good tradeoff with the tune. TY for the input. How did the 4.08 gear out at button willow vs big willow?

again, last time I will say it, if ur not maxing out ur car based on lap times, no sense in going gears.................

You do not need them ROFL /end

It was ideal at both tracks. BRP was great with peak revs right into brake zone on I5, before bus stop, and before phil hill and sweeper. Power out of cotton corners and esses was noticeably greater. At WSIR maxed 4th gear out into turns 2 and 3 and 3rd into 4, shift point was before crest of hill into 6, not right at the top as it was before, and out of turn 9 there was no bog in 4th like before due to lower rpms.

Oh and it's great around town as well.

Question- Are you running full bolt-ons and no uprev?

ok so with your new gears, what is ur new lap times at BRP and WSIR?

With just 1 way coilovers, intake, exhaust, no tune, stillen bumper and replica nismo wing and all camber 2:02 at brp and 1:33 at wsir is park in the walk....

Again save ur money, go do suspension first, all camber arms, front sway bar, etc etc, brake ducts

I would also recommend doing the bushings too, they will all go eventually. At about 15-20 track days, my diff bushing went, trailing arm bushing completely GONE.

First time out I dropped about 2 seconds off my former best time at WSIR, down in the 1:35's, without 3-4 degrees of negative front camber, and the run I had at BRP was in 101 degree temps so I took it easy so as not to waste rubber, point is he's doing diff mods and he asked opinions, I support gearing change as long as he's in there.

Heck, not modding at all and spending money on lessons with a real pro is the most prudent way to go about getting faster, but that's no ******* fun. Sure, he could do dozens of other mods to the point he never is sure what's working and what's not, and never really gets it all dialed in, but I don't think many people are down to blow that kind of cash in this economy.

He is doing to do suspension regardless, he is already looking into it. Chassis/suspension beats gears ANY day. Diff cooler, etc is all a must too
A ton of stuff is broken on my car due to not upgrading wisely. Which is why I am giving that advice. Work on cooling, radiator, oil cooler, brakes, ducts, etc the easy stuff first. Then move on to all ur camber arms, then suspension+LSD, diff cooler, better chassis setup/corner balance/bushings.

But he bought a Queef already. So he's obv gonna be in there anyway, and as the only person that has them, and tracks, I recommend them. They're not that much more. The tune is also mandatory with full bolt ons or detonation will eventually ruin his engine.

Your car's not broken because of mods. It's broken from intensive tracking and weak links in Nissan design.