It was ideal at both tracks. BRP was great with peak revs right into brake zone on I5, before bus stop, and before phil hill and sweeper. Power out of cotton corners and esses was noticeably greater. At WSIR maxed 4th gear out into turns 2 and 3 and 3rd into 4, shift point was before crest of hill into 6, not right at the top as it was before, and out of turn 9 there was no bog in 4th like before due to lower rpms.

Oh and it's great around town as well.

Question- Are you running full bolt-ons and no uprev?

ok so with your new gears, what is ur new lap times at BRP and WSIR?

With just 1 way coilovers, intake, exhaust, no tune, stillen bumper and replica nismo wing and all camber 2:02 at brp and 1:33 at wsir is park in the walk....

Again save ur money, go do suspension first, all camber arms, front sway bar, etc etc, brake ducts

I would also recommend doing the bushings too, they will all go eventually. At about 15-20 track days, my diff bushing went, trailing arm bushing completely GONE.

First time out I dropped about 2 seconds off my former best time at WSIR, down in the 1:35's, without 3-4 degrees of negative front camber, and the run I had at BRP was in 101 degree temps so I took it easy so as not to waste rubber, point is he's doing diff mods and he asked opinions, I support gearing change as long as he's in there.

Heck, not modding at all and spending money on lessons with a real pro is the most prudent way to go about getting faster, but that's no ******* fun. Sure, he could do dozens of other mods to the point he never is sure what's working and what's not, and never really gets it all dialed in, but I don't think many people are down to blow that kind of cash in this economy.

He is doing to do suspension regardless, he is already looking into it. Chassis/suspension beats gears ANY day. Diff cooler, etc is all a must too
A ton of stuff is broken on my car due to not upgrading wisely. Which is why I am giving that advice. Work on cooling, radiator, oil cooler, brakes, ducts, etc the easy stuff first. Then move on to all ur camber arms, then suspension+LSD, diff cooler, better chassis setup/corner balance/bushings.

But he bought a Queef already. So he's obv gonna be in there anyway, and as the only person that has them, and tracks, I recommend them. They're not that much more. The tune is also mandatory with full bolt ons or detonation will eventually ruin his engine.

Your car's not broken because of mods. It's broken from intensive tracking and weak links in Nissan design.

Which will happen to u too soon

Yeah my can of worms is open at this point. I really need camber so that the outside 1.5" of my tires can take a break lol. But I don't want to tune a new suspension, wo doing drivertrain/tune stuff first because it will just throw it out of whack again.

Martin to the point again, I hear the "row more argument", but the same thing is going to affect you once you put on the SC, you are going to finish your gear sooner than before and need to hit 5th more often.

Biggest thing that would prevent me from doing it would be losing SR. Some people have mentioned there is a solution to that though.

Also, what clutch flywheel are you going to use martin?

nothing is set for the SC, I am contemplating selling it.

U need camber arms more than anything else at this point. I ran cambers with stock suspension car was awesome.

My upgrades started as this: camber arms front and rear, sways, with rs3 275's on stock 19's stockers. Then intake, exhaust, then m7 coils, os giken lsd, then rear seibon nismo replica wing, stillen front bumper, seibon hood. Up to this point my car run exactly 1:33 at wsir and 2:02 at brp and was an idea setup.


Then upgraded too much with no time to dial in car and still not dialed in, just patched together! and its now a POS LOL

lol. Yeah, but if you are going to tune that suspension, then you might as well tune it with the SC on. I really don't know why you don't just go full mod. For all the reasons I expressed to you(including the amount of asshattery that goes on in street class) The 370 I think fits a lot better into limited mod type classes. You can start doing some real aero and crank the SC as much as you want. Then, you can do custom gears too if you like. I can tell you, I personally would rather either not fit into a class, or just run mod as opposed to street. Street is a lot like Porsche GT2 spec. It's all about who has the most money and who is close to the rule writers. That is why a lot Porsche owners do not buy GT3's and instead go with a GT2. It's just a d1ck-off in that class.

The Z will not be competitive at all in mod class, it probably won't even podium in street class.

The platform is just not really that well developed for track parts since not enough Z track. So not much off the shelf stuff to make the Z fast. Why it is a consideration to part out the Z

idk dude, I think you can prolly pull another 15 seconds out of that car with suspension, tune, aero, and some weight drop. But you are talking about doing the whole gambit. The guys that race in Porsche GT 2 have to buy a late model GT3 and then dump another 100K into it just to keep up. Guess it depends on what you really have as a goal. If you want to W2W race hen spec that way, if you want to set records in TA, then you gotta find a series and spec that you think you can be competitive and have fun in. There's a price tag either way :)

not looking to do w2w, next year I will have even less time to hit the track. Why I am thinking about parting a few parts, been selling headers etc already. Even a nismo RC pushes almost 3K lbs, the Z is just too heavy, a 4 door civic gets down to 2600 lbs EASILY. Not willing to drive a car on the street with full cage...

Bummer dude, I will miss hanging out with my homie at the track in 2014 :(