Ok I have a problem with the 18s. Due to the little clearance and heat from brakes, all my wheel weights have fallen off. Anyone have a solution to the problem?

Race bikes we all duck taped them on. Might work. As duck tape heats up its becomes more sticky. If it doesn't work you'll be forced to use the clamp weights that will jack your wheels up.

that might leave a huge mess, not sure if it will stick as my wheels are so nasty

Then clean your wheels first :shakes head:. Use a 2x4" piece or however big you need to cover a few weights and see if it sticks. If the tape falls off and the weights fall off you have one choice.

Use heat tape to keep the weights on. It is reflective on one side to reject heat. If you are really pimp use the gold tape.
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...-010397_ml.jpg

I actually learned something in this thread. Thanks guys!

Not feeling the tape, but it seems to be a valid means of NOT losing your wheel weights. It just makes me think that it will look silly, lol.

Yep that's what I use - stove pipe tape, but mine is silver.

If the weights are on the inside you'll never see it. If you're tracking your car it's not for show, it's for go. No one cares about looks. Most tape also comes in colors so it will be kinda hidden. My fronts are plasti dipped so I should be ok since a thick layer of rubber is holding them on, also another option.

True!

Look up the wheel diameter on F1 cars and report back please.

Well that's not fair, they weigh 1000lbs. They can have tiny wheels and rotors.

They run inboard brakes, don't they?

No sir.

Teams run bigger wheels to fit bigger brakes, period. F1 gets away with a 16-17inch wheel it because they have the most potent friction materials available, bar none, plus the most aggressive cooling systems, and their cars are around 1200-1400 pounds fully loaded.

During one of our advanced classroom sessions at the track this weekend, the instructor (who seemed quite experienced) had a detailed discussion with us about all things related to tires and rubber and widths and heights and tradeoffs. I'm still digesting half of what he said, and there's no way I could repeat it all anyways, but suffice it to say I came away from the discussion still thinking that 18x10 square is best for this car in the overall. You could potentially see some very small benefit from going wider (at least in the rear), but only if there's another reason for the tradeoff (e.g. to use up leftover points because you were under expected weight for your class or something) - although I'd rather buy aero than wider wheels, I think, in situations where that's an option.

Good to know. Selling 9.5 and 10.5 now to get 10" square with 285/35 or 295/30 or 295/35 if they make something I can afford.

I run square size tires but my wheels are a inch apart. Until I come a cross another set of just two 9.5 width or 10.5 RPF1's I can more than live with it for now.

Ill sell you either or spohn.

nice info guys!!!

Check out A.M. Brian's offer. That is what he is trying to do is make them affordable. That's why I am waiting to see what happens with those. Races don't start in CT till end of March anyway so I have some time.

Not sure I follow. He's making a tire or something? Is there a post?

The thread is here: http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...on-spec-z.html . He's making an 18x10 square set for the SpecZ crowd, and the offsets look good for us too on paper.

FWIW, my current square setup (that works and doesn't rub, with the APRacing BBK and the car lowered an inch or two on my coilovers) is Forgestar F-14 18x10 +34 all around, and using a 10mm spacer (the type that's just a plate with holes in it, from Z1) in the rear so they come out a little closer to the fender back there, with 275/35R18 rubber on them (RS3). I got the offset info from travisjb + Mike who have both run a similar setup at some point in the past. The upside of same-offset all around on the wheels themselves is you can rotate wheels between all 4 corners and flip tires on the wheels, etc. Less waste on un-rotate-able tires.

As I mentioned in Brian's thread, I think the offsets he's putting on his SpecZ setup will end up ~5mm further out than mine, so it's in the ballpark and will work, although who knows yet on brake fitment and whether you'd want a little spacer in the rear for looks.

O I only care about tires. At the moment it looks like 285/35 RS3 or 295/30 R888.

I plan on rpf1 in 18x10 +38. Right now I have 18x9.5 +45 (w/ 20mm) and 18x10.5 +15. To me they stick out a little to much. Maybe 1/4" past the fenders. The new rpf1's will suck in 7mm front and 9mm rear by me moving the 20mm spacer from the front to the rear.

Not 100% if the front will fit, if it doesn't then a 5mm spacer should do it I hope.

285 35 18 is too small, it's annoying to rub everywhere

I think you mean too big? But yeah, after seeing how 275/35R18 fits in the front, I can't imagine trying to go any bigger up there. The rears can fit whatever you'd like within reason. Keep in mind it's not just the fender and wheel well, but also not rubbing holes in your front brake ducts.

Damn never thought of that. I would think that the ducts would clear since they move with the hub.

Oops sorry misread 285 30, ignore what I said

The part that attaches to the hub moves with the hub, but generally the routing of it from there to the front of the bumper involves at least some travel along the engine-bay side of the wheel well. Mine ended up pressed against there and slightly flatted and zip-tied down, but I still hit them a little at full steering lock. Not enough to rub holes in them yet over several months, but it's a consideration.

I run 295/40-18s, but I'm at -3 degrees camber too and they just barely clear everything. Car looks like a character from the "Cars" cartoon movies!

Well I'm good then.