You can't then you can't & don't
 

We should do & not do whatever we want with our cars. If the subject of drag racing comes up, you & others should not jump out of your seats because you can't do it, or don't want to. Whatever....

I'm fine with that. 100% fine. Just don't say others can't do it, because with a little effort they can...... You can't then don't.... I've got nothing more.....

Probably too much exposure to 1000-1800hp Vipers or something. 500-600 gets old real fast I am telling ya! Thats why its so frustrating that the Z cannot hook that power up on street tires.

I'm sorry
 

I'm at a Nissan dealer trying & there was some issue. Maybe I misunderstood. Anyway, I thought your post was very good. Didn't I say that?// Now I got to go!!!!!! sorry, glad to talk later.

Yeah, I had a "code brown" moment merging into traffic this morning. Completely forgot how much of a difference it being 40 outside instead of 80. :rofl2:

No problem. I saw your post but I am not sure the answer. I was under the impression that the ABS rings were the same from 2003-now on all the Z's

If you need testers I will volunteer!
The last time I went to the track I felt like I was just racing to see what kind of trap speed I could get. Granted, I know the car wasn't going to do great at the track and that's not what its set up for. It'd still be nice to get a decent launch in.

As for "generally totally reasonable". You are right you can get used to 5-600rwhp very easily. Since my Z is my daily and it has over 30k boosted miles, I now consider 500rwhp completely "normal" for driving around town to get groceries. :rofl2:

with the drag raials 305 35 18's i get 1.80 60 fts.
This is with a 7 AT.

Thanks for the post ...
Am looking to do the same ...
Trying to find out more re the 19" M/T's
Currently have 20mm spacers as well ... possible fitment problems ???

What wheels and slicks are you using ?

Thanks,
Bob

Still Learning How to Drive

This is what Im saying I think is about the current limit for our IRS and 18" drag radial. Anything is possible but I don't imagine beating it by much without a slick or really custom suspension work. Maybe if you went real dedicated like positive camber... But what I'm talking about is realistic expectations for the norm, not the rare few that best it.

I would be glad to help you but I need more info
 

Like if you're willing to change front & rear wheels/tires at the track or you would rather get a set of drag/street radials (rear only) & just drive to the track then just drive back home.

Now I believe you're super charged with apx. 500 h.p. What trans? gears? suspension?

It would have been better/easier if you learned before the mods. Anyway need more info.

Friday night or Sunday at Atco, I might go for the last time. My concern is rain on Sunday & both days will have very high humidity.

Now I don't feel so bad. I've been dragging since 16 and have had many fast cars. My last WRX with a measly 335hp could run 11.7's. Hell bone stock I ran 13.3 at 101!

Now last summer I have a gutted rear 370z with a CBE and 285/35/18 HTR Z3's that couldn't break 14's at 106.5mph! Stock rear camber was -1.9 and -1.4. If the camber does change than no wonder I couldn't hook up! Its a hell of a highway drag car though :stirthepot:

Copy and sell us the quicktrick alignment setup. You can knock out your own alignment in the garage or at the track in a few minutes. Positive would then be the norm for us all.

I've thought about buying one of those just for myself! I might end up needing one

I've been building the car for about 3 years now...just get that need for speed every now and then if'n you know what I mean.
Love to do quick little pick ups here and there when it's safe.
Mostly rolling spurts from 2nd, 3rd, and into 4th...backing off at about 110 or so.
It was my dd up until this past year.

Used to race when I was a kid ... when a 15 second 1/4 was a really really fast time...Corvettes, GTO's, Hemis, and Super Sports were running in the 15's and 16's.

Got the urge to track it a few weeks ago and am now on a mission to eventually get in to the 11's

Best run at Island Dragway (NJ) was 13.02 @116 mph with a 2.0 60'
The other runs were 13.1 @ 115 ... never got under 2.0 60' times

No traction and had to nurse it until I was able to shift into 3rd because of the wheel spin and hop...not fun

Track temp was in the 40's...(summer tires ... ugh)

Did as much research as possible ... and a lot from this site ... not too many Z's around here.

Came up with the need to further research the ABLS and yaw sensor and the effects it has on 1/4 mile.
(?) It is my understanding thus far, that the ABLS is not disabled by turning off the VDC and will pulse the brakes during wheel spin.
Verified this at Broadway Performance Speed Shop - by attempting a controlled burn out and hitting the brakes after releasing the clutch and creating the spin.
The rear wheels went in to a stutter mode when the brakes pulsed.
The ABLS seriously inhibited the ability to do a burn out.
I guess this is why the drifters don't like the ABLS



The Z is a Base/Sport and has:

6MT trans / ACT clutch

Stillen SC'r with a little over 8 lbs. of boost

PPI Long Tube Headers

Quaife LSD - 4.08 final drive I believe (I should know but I don't) ... will have to double check on that one though - installed within a few months of the SC'r because of the traction problems even back then.

HKS exhaust/cat delete

Custom Tune by John Nouri - Broadway Performance in Passaic NJ

Stock Suspension - not lowered - Almost 57k miles on the car now
Don't know if it's time to replace it...has seemed to be OK

Stock 19" Rays with 285/35/19 Michelin PS II's
I do have 20mm spacers all around though

Am considering the GTM Race Logic TC with launch control as a means of stabilizing and standardizing the launch...
Not intending to rev it till it sputters and pops tho' but rather give that extra bit of buffer during hard acceleration.

Any and all input on that would also be appreciated as well ...

I do have an extra set of 19" OEM rear wheels and the next logical step would be to Slap on the M/T's ...
The M/T's are a bit taller by about a 1/2" and have about 3/4" wider sector width than the PSII's.
The 20mm spacers were a good idea at the time ... :-) ... made the PSII's look good ... hence the fitment question.
Would like to avoid having to change the wheels at the track tho'

Thanks,

Bob

Bob you are an older guy???? :)
 

Wait till early next spring(new radials may come out) go to a site like JEGS. Check out street/drag radials from M/T, Nitto, & Hoosier & anyone else that may offer something by spring.
Also find 2 wheels, only two in the 17"-18" size by apx. 10" wide. You can race with spacers in the front. As far as the rear, Jegs can help you get the right offset/size to fit your car, w spacers or without. Weld wheels was my choice for the slicks, but they Jegs can help you.

Get a good rear set up that can be put on your car hours/days before you go to the track. On that day JUST drive to the track with those tires/wheels on, & the stock setup in the front. If you can get a front brake lock-up system or I think you can just remove the rear brake fuse??/ then all you'll do is drive to the track, have a cup of coffee, pull into the water box first, lock front brakes & smoke the rear tires till a bunch white smoke appears in your side & back mirrors. The starter will also wave you to go forward to the starting line. Part of their job is to tell you when your ready. Lift the clutch & floor the gas:) at apx. 4,500 to 5,000 something rpm. Experiment. You should be able to do 1.5 to 1.7's 60' times & very good 1/4 ET's.

Not much to do at the track & do great times & have fun. Good luck. Also it sounds like you have a very nice setup....

I did that when I stated with my 08 z. If you go to dragtimes.com, browse, hit Nissan 350z. I'm on the first page(bottom) Someone made a video of my run with the exact set up I just mentioned. I didn't even hear of forums then. Soon I was told that the run 12.9 put me in the # one spot of 350z.com. I didn't know or care at that time. :) Had stock wheels/tires in the front....

Awesome Reply !!!
Will check out your video fer sure.

Will check out the rear brake fuse ... does that disable the ABLS only ?
Will look in to the Line Lock.

Also need an education on the IRS and perhaps do something with the suspension while I'm at it.
Can you point me in the right direction here too?

I'm still stuck in the days of purely mechanical race cars and Traction Bars...a lot has changed since then!

All this new fangled electronics stuff has changed the playing field !

Again thanks for taking the time to reply - it already has helped me out a lot.

Bob

Still learning after all these years

I have line lock on the 370z. Its a pain to install, you need 2 soliniods.
I installed them into brake compartment under the hood<
Getting the proper fitting is very difficult.
I had custom hoses made up.

Z

Thanks for the Heads Up ...
Gleaning from the wealth of info on this thread - I might be able to do a good burn out by removing the Rear Brake Fuse ...
Hit the Gas, Pop the Clutch, and very quickly Left Foot the Brake ?

Now all I gotta do is learn about the suspension - digest it all - and apply it properly at the track!

Is your car K51 Liquid Platinum or Silver .. ?
Mine is the Liquid Platinum ... will have to post a pic of it sometime

BTW 12.343 @ 114.14 ---- and (gulp) what broke ?

Bob

Nice thread guys we need more drag racer threads. I only road race, but come on let's face it road racing is just drag racing from corner to corner ;).

It looks like the oil pump failed. It was turning 8100 when it let go.
No parts came out or the engine. Something broke in the drivers side cam gears.
I drove it and it stopped 60 km from home , I had it towed .
GTM will have my 4.2 finished before Christmas with a stage 3 SC.
All the toys including cams will be in this motor.
Oh yes lets not forget the meth.

Z

yikes ... ! ... how'd u manage 8100 rpm ?
Keep me posted as the the progress with the 4.2L ...
I am considering this as well when it's time to do the internals.
Not a fan of the meth tho'

Actually it is very different ... gotta try it !
You will get to know your car better and improve your skills.

Hey Andre ...
yep ... I'm a older guy ... LOL ... might have a year on you !
Thanks for your posts...
Did try to view your video on Dragtimes but couldn't find it ... is it still there?

In the meantime, I have been busy:

Already had the M/T DR II's on order (before reading your post) - they are now on the car and they do make a difference.

Fitted OK even with the 20mm spacers ... enough clearance but they do stick out beyond the fender...looks kinda mean.

Did go with the GTM Race Logic traction control - that's also installed but GTM didn't send the instructional CD with the package so I don't have the Launch Control set up.
Was able to figure out the basic settings and did a few preliminary tests.
Race Logic does work well and is a whole bunch better than the VDC.

Need to read the instructions once the CD gets here - and a little more time to get it dialed in tho' before taking it to the track.

Weather was not good this weekend so hopefully it will be better next weekend.

Will let you know how things go - it definitely hooks up better - but you still need skills to get it right.

Bob

Z&I...You are correct by removing the Rear Brake Fuse you will temporarily disable the ABLS and then you will be able to properly do a standing burnout at the burnout box before you line up.

On a Side Note...FINALLY!!! A solid group of Drag Racing enthusiasts on this forum. For the past couple of years its been so hard to get some good info....Like all of you have traction issues...NA at the moment...Can't break 2.0 60 ft at the time....Need Drag Slicks...Thinkin of going Mickey Thompson Et street 2 305/35 -19 on the back, but need confirmation that the diameter size will be ok....Can anyone confirm if these will fit on stock height no spacers?

GTM traction control did not work for at the track.
I have a 7 AT.
car ran quicker with out it.
i may not have set it up correctly.

Up date

Big power for my car is coming from GTM.
Big $$$$$.$$

305 35 18 's MT drag tires may be too small.

target is for the 10's

Z

Thanks for the $$$$$$ update !

Weather held up today ... Track temp in the '40's.

Ran 12.407 @ 116.31 - still with a 2.004 60' time tho.

Tried a few different settings with the GTM Race Logic ...
It did help to keep the car planted with the 2nd gear shift ...not too sure how much it helped in 1st off the line.
Too early to tell ... gotta think through todays runs.

The tires were cold ... with the Race Logic it is more difficult to do a proper burn out...need to look in to that and figure out what to do too.

It might be also the clutch that is a weak link now...encountered some slip'n and smellin'.

oh - no back in to the shop again !

gittin' in the 10's is also my goal as well ... but first the 11's ... & got to get a deeper wallet too...

Bob

The launch control will work with the 6 MT.
What mods are on your car.
Great time.
Pm your phone # and i will give you my tire set up for air pressure and launching the car.
my 60 fts are 1.80
There is no disk for the launch control as far as i know. Did you get the GTM manual for the TC.

Z

Thanks,

Will PM you later tonight when I get home...all help welcome!

I did go to the track with a plan in mind - dial in the Race Logic and fiddle with the air pressure.
Wanted to do a pass with it all turned off as a control run but didn't get the chance.
The Race Logic helped with the wheel hop and allowed a much better shift and go in 2nd.
Disappointed with the 2.0 60' time tho ... took it for granted that it would give me better than 2.0 but it didn't.

Still might have been the cold tires and the clutch has been starting to slip as of late.
(couldn't find the rear brake fuse that has been mentioned)

Back to the drawing board ! try try again

The Z mods:
Stillen SC'r with a little over 8 lbs. Boost
PPI Long Tube Headers - Cat Delete
HKS Ti Exhaust
ACT clutch
Quaife LSD
Custom Tune

GTM Racelogic

Here is the link to the manufactrers site and Instructions ...
Since the product is continually being updated there is no CD...nor did it arrive with any kind of installation/operating instructions.

Traction Control

Look on the 1st Page for 'Digital Adjuster Manual'
(it's right under the Race Logic Traction Control face type)

And away we go !

Bob

Yep !
They Fit !!
Even with the 20mm spacers ... just put them on the car a few days ago.
They do stick out from fenders a few mm's but they do look mean.
Haven't had them bottom out either but I drive on flat roads.
Just ran a 12.4 @ 116 on cold tires in 45 degree track temp ... no burn out...

Now where did you say that Rear Brake Fuse is located ? (OK to PM me)
Couldn't find it in the Battery Compartment or the drivers side fuse box.
Would like to heat up the tires next time out !

Thanks,
Bob

Thanks Bob...

In regards to the fuse...You wanna pull the fuse labeled "brake" found in the drivers footwell, there is a kickpanel there. Remember, don't drive around like this, your brake lights will not work.....It's ok for drag racing, but I wouldn't use it for drifting or slalom events as you need your brake lights to help warn other driver's behind you...and don't forget to pop that fuse back in when you're leaving the track or done drag racing...

I believe that there is a program out there that can make things more convenient and not compromise your brake lights going out but I can't recall which program it was....Not sure if its a pre-tune from UpRev...I read it somewhere on the forum awhile back...

Thanks Bolio... for the info and Heads Up !

Will look again ... had the drivers side panel cover removed and was looking at the back of it to see what fuses were labeled ...
Probably looking too hard for REAR BRAKE and missed it.

I only plan to drag race ... If I can't find that program you referred to I will try to figure a way to intercept/disable the fuse with a safety/covered toggle switch - EZ on EZ off.

Bob

i disable the brake switch by installing a toggle switch and wire to a brake sensor behind the brake pedal. ( thanks to sharpbycooper ) This would be the best idea so you can turn on and off immediately rather than fiddling under the car or pop the hood to turn it back on

Also as for drag wheels, smallest i can go is 18'' wheel due to brake clearance and i got bf Goodrich DR tire. Haven't tried that yet but once the track opens at atco then i'll see

Was Santa good to you ??? :hohoho:

Enjoy'd reading through all of the reply's.....i'm an old school drag-racer & am working on mine now...currently stock with only the drop in K&N filters.
i got lot's of ideas-but for sure//get rid of the negative camber in back...a tad positive wouldn't hurt any....not sure what rear gear you running-but 125 trap speed is very impressive...don't let this thread end,,,i will follow up.

DRAG WHEEL/Tire setups
 

No new posts...getting ready to go racing soon,,,gotta break in the 12's (with paper ,stock air filter) so i will be bone stock-but will let my 125lb. daughter drive....guaranteed 12'shttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...24df3234d3.jpg

I thought I had read everything on this forum...glad I ran into this... Very helpful, and reassuring since I've been doing a lot of what y'all have already talked about. I wish we had more guys here doing this stuff.

Thread necromancing comencing

I need to take a peep under the car to see if there is anyway we could relocate the upper control arm mounting point a tad higher but an easier way out may be a new upper arm?

https://meganracing.com/mrs-ns-0420.html

Adjust it longer so there isn't so much camber gain? I am not sure what length you would need to do that to actually effect change.

I am strongly considering downsizing the rear brakes to run 15's and redo the suspension height and alignment.

I'm kinda glad you brought this one back from the dead. I almost miss Andre. We've had a lot of trolls on this site, but he was the only one that was completely batshit insane.

We have abandoned any suspension geometry changes since we have been able to 60’ 1.4 on the stock setup, while babying the stock axles. I think that next season we will be able to get into the 1.3s or 1.2s. Although some changes would still be nice for hooking up on street tires or while leaving the car slammed.

While I can imagine that info is proprietary, would you be willing to say if i went with the 15" setup, stock height and 0* camber I "should" be able to achieve in the 1.6-1.8 range?

Alternatively I have found that the R33 GTR 17x9's fit over the rear brakes, with 28x10.5 slicks on the 17's and the above suspension changes could I get in that ball park?

(I got your S1.SE fuel system 2-3 weeks ago, getting ready to get all that in with the GTR twins ala Husam's kit, hoping for anything north of 580whp/480wtq in my climate on VP's X85)